RW> It's quite easy, if you leave one side intact while you work on the   
   RW> other.   
   RW>    
   RW> Remove both drums, but don't touch one set of brakes until you're   
   RW> satisfied with what you've done to the other side.   
      
   Good idea.  Using the other side as a reference would certainly make putting   
   things back together, easier.   
      
   RW> Just pull a drum and check the thickness of the shoes. If they're thin in   
   RW> the center of the shoe, they'll need to be replaced sooner or later, but   
   RW> sooner than later. If you get my drift. With 70k on the back, they should   
   RW> be OK for now (weight transfer back to front during braking determines   
   RW> when they will wear out).   
      
   There is no noise on the rear pads yet.  Next time to do some work on the   
   truck, I will pull the drum and take a peek.  It looked rusted, so I'm sure it   
   won't be a simple thing to pull off.   
      
   RW> Funny how different products wear. My 02 Chevrolet 1/2 ton Silverado has   
   RW> 72k on it and I was inspecting the front rotors and pads at the tire   
   RW> store   
   RW> that mounted two fresh tires for me on Wednesday. They were as good as   
   RW> new, shiney with no grooves in the rotors and still plenty of material on   
   RW> the original pads.   
      
   On my Monte Carlo, it seems the rotors get warped before the pads get worn   
   out.  At least when you use the cheap China rotors.  Maybe it would be worth   
   getting better rotors next go round.   
      
   I did a full brake job on my Monte this past spring.  Using cheap rotors, but   
   top of the line ceramic pads.  I also replaced one of the rear caliper clamps   
   that was corroded and not sliding properly.   
      
   - Mark   
      
   --- WWIVToss v.1.50    
    * Origin:  http://www.weather-station.org * Bel Air, MD -USA (1:261/1304.0)