RW> I found a cut-a-way view of the 45RFE here:   
   RW>    
   RW> http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/545RFE.html   
   RW>    
   RW> Looks to me like the connector is behind where the valve body would be,   
   RW> just like it is in a 700R4/4L60E GM trans. What was very interesting to   
   RW> note was that a dual internal filter system (one which was a primary   
   RW> filter for transmission sump, the other for the fluid cooler return   
   RW> system) is present. Plus, I can see what looks like an external filter up   
   RW> front. Changing all three filters and all of the fluid you can get out of   
   RW> the trans might be something to consider before you have it rebuilt.   
      
   Yes, if you are laying on your back under the trans and pull out the value   
   body, it would be sitting on the top right.  The connector is on the driver's   
   side.     
      
   I noticed the double filter setup.  I'm sure they aren't clean after that   
   mixing of fluid, but I have no shifting problems at all.  Just the P0740   
   (related to torque converter) error when cruising over 50mph.   
      
   RW> With 155k miles on it, you might be right. If you plan on keeping it for   
   RW> another 100k...   
      
   It doesn't get driven that much anymore, but we have no intention of selling   
   it. There are things you just can't do without having a truck of some sort.   
      
   At this point, I just want to get the power steering pump and CV axle repair   
   completed to get it back on the road.  The trans isn't causing a major problem   
   at this point in time.   
      
   RW> Plastic! I've seen plastic resevoirs on Jeep (and now GM) cooling   
   RW> systems,   
   RW> but never plastic on much else that contains essential fluids to keep a   
   RW> vehicle on the road.   
      
   Yes, and a plastic part that is VERY difficult to locate.  Seems the hemi   
   version have what appears to be a metal one.     
      
   I just called tonight to check on my AutoZone order.  Seems the parts won't   
   arrive until mid-next week - since both the CV axle and power steering pump   
   were special order.  They are still waiting for the pump to arrive in their   
   warehouse.     
      
   The pump is a rebuilt original, complete with reservoir and pully.  It should   
   be a plug-in-play install (famous last words).  Everything from the lines to   
   the pump will be totally new.     
      
   I will also replace the serpentine belt while I'm at it.   
      
   The CV axle I ordered is new - which was also special order.   
      
   RW> Put the vehicle and the heater in the garage the night before ... it's   
   RW> easier to work on room-temperature cars than ice cold cars.   
      
   Not a bad idea.  I have the area cleared out, so will pull it in there next   
   Friday evening unless everything arrives this week.  I have a portable ceramic   
   heater that works great in there.  I have been in this situation before.  :)   
      
   RW> I think the procedure is a little more involved than just removing the   
   RW> wheel beering. You'll probably have to remove the lower control arm too   
   RW> or at least lower it by removing the lower ball joint.   
      
   My plan is to remove the caliper, rotor, and hub.  Once the hub is out - it   
   will go in without an issue.  Some people opt to remove the lower ball joint   
   instead of the wheel bearing.     
      
   Alldata says to remove the wheel bearing - and that is actually what I am more   
   comfortable doing.  Never done anything with ball joints.  Having air tools   
   this time will make this job 100% easier.  No more jumping up and down on a   
   breaker bar.  :)   
      
   - Mark   
      
   --- WWIVToss v.1.50    
    * Origin:  http://www.weather-station.org * Bel Air, MD -USA (1:261/1304.0)