Mark Hofmann wrote to Roy Witt:   
      
    RW>> Don't forget your mechanic's coveralls...   
      
    MH> Those would be my ripped old jeans and old shirt.  And did I get   
    MH> messy! The weather wasn't exactly nice.  Foggy, damp and in the low   
    MH> 40s. Everything was wet.   
      
   Of course. Otherwise you wouldn't remember the joy in working on cars in   
   winter. 8^)   
      
    RW>> If you have to remove the valve body, be careful how you handle it.   
    RW>> There are (in GM trans) rubber balls that act like valves that can't   
    RW>> be lost or moved without affecting the way the trans operates. Just   
    RW>> a heads up, in case you decide to tackle it without the exact   
    RW>> process in hand.   
      
    MH> Thanks for the tip.  The "solenoid pack" on the 45RFE transmission   
    MH> for the 4.7 4x4 Durango is on the top of the value body.  You can see   
    MH> the connector facing upwards when looking at the transmission.  It is   
    MH> screwed on the top of the value body.   
      
   I found a cut-a-way view of the 45RFE here:   
      
   http://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/545RFE.html   
      
   Looks to me like the connector is behind where the valve body would be,   
   just like it is in a 700R4/4L60E GM trans. What was very interesting to   
   note was that a dual internal filter system (one which was a primary   
   filter for transmission sump, the other for the fluid cooler return   
   system) is present. Plus, I can see what looks like an external filter up   
   front. Changing all three filters and all of the fluid you can get out of   
   the trans might be something to consider before you have it rebuilt.   
      
   I once let the engine in my 72 Cheyenne idle with the AC on while Dove   
   hunting in the desert. It was 110F outside. That incident tended to   
   overheat the trans, which burnt up the fluid. With burnt fluid, the   
   clutches refused to engage 3rd (TH350 trans), kicking in and out of gear.   
   I changed out the fluid and the trans returned to normal, but the life of   
   the clutches was shortened a bit. The trans fluid change got me over the   
   mountains and back to San Diego. About six months later I had the trans   
   exchanged for a rebuilt.   
      
    MH> I have been having second thoughts about the repair.  Mainly because   
    MH> I'm not 100% sure that my repair will fix the issue.  There is a good   
    MH> chance, but not 100%.  It still could be the torque converter itself.   
    MH> Spending $200 for a new solenoid pack, plus filters, trans fluid,   
    MH> gasket, time spent, etc vs. an entire overhaul with two year   
    MH> warranty.  Not to mention the possibility of me screwing it up.   
      
   With 155k miles on it, you might be right. If you plan on keeping it for   
   another 100k...   
      
    MH> Speaking of repairs - I managed to replace the pressure line and   
    MH> return line on the power steering this weekend...almost.  I was on   
    MH> the last part - removing the clamp & hose from the resevoir on the   
    MH> pump.   
      
    MH> Then there was a snap..  Damn plastic resevoir end broke off.  No   
    MH> problem, right - just get a new resevoir.  There are not to be found   
    MH> - and different in the 4.7L than the hemis.   
      
   Plastic! I've seen plastic resevoirs on Jeep (and now GM) cooling systems,   
   but never plastic on much else that contains essential fluids to keep a   
   vehicle on the road.   
      
    MH> So I decided to order a new pump with pulley and resevoir from   
    MH> AutoZone online.  There were the only ones that had the part, but it   
    MH> was special order.  Looks like I will be finishing the repair next   
    MH> weekend in my garage with the portable heater on.  Will also replace   
    MH> the serpentine belt while I'm at it.   
      
   Put the vehicle and the heater in the garage the night before ... it's   
   easier to work on room-temperature cars than ice cold cars.   
      
    MH> It doesn't even there.  I also noticed that the "loud noise" that my   
    MH> wife was complaining about the last time she drove it was not the   
    MH> power steering pump being low on fluid (which is normally the issue),   
    MH> but was a broken CV axle.   
      
   LOL! Just like a woman...   
      
    MH> Totally snapped in half.  The inner side of the axle is missing   
    MH> completely and the outer is still in the hub with no boot.  Grease   
    MH> all over the place.   
      
   Too bad you don't live in San Diego. There used to be a guy in the south   
   bay area that wore a scuba diver's wet suit and used a power washer to   
   clean the bottom of cars while they were on a lift.  He probably got EPA'd   
   out of business by now.   
      
    MH> I ordered a CV axle as well, and will attempt that repair at the same   
    MH> time. I have done wheel bearings before, so it is similar to that.   
    MH> Just have to make sure the "C" clamp is seated on the inner.  Will   
    MH> try to install without removing the wheel bearing, but the install   
    MH> calls for doing that. Either way - I have air tools now to make my   
    MH> job easier.   
      
   I think the procedure is a little more involved than just removing the   
   wheel beering. You'll probably have to remove the lower control arm too   
   or at least lower it by removing the lower ball joint.   
      
            R\%/itt   
      
      
   --- GoldED+/W32 1.1.5-31012   
    * Origin: Texas Lone-Star - Texan, American, USAian  (1:387/22)