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|    AUTOMOTIVE    |    Anything to do with cars    |    2,177 messages    |
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|    Message 1,237 of 2,177    |
|    Mark Hofmann to Roy Witt    |
|    Re: Hey!    |
|    27 Jul 12 20:58:42    |
      RW> The crankshaft exits the block and oil pan there, and that gap is sealed       RW> by the rear seal, which keeps oil from escaping the oil pan. If the bolts       RW> that hold the pan to the engine block in that area work loose, that could       RW> be a source of a leak. It is also subject to blowby pressure, thus why I       RW> mentioned giving those bolts a torque check.              I'll check them on my next oil change for the Durango. The truck has this       long plastic shield type thing on the bottom of the car that tends to collect       various drips and things, so it is not easy to tell the source all the time.        Each time I drain the oil, some of it gets on that plastic shield and then       drips off of it for weeks.              RW> There should be one that is held in place with a hose clamp. That is the       RW> first place I'd look, then give those rust spots on the hard lines a good       RW> look. The rust may make that hard line porus enough to spring a small       RW> leak.              Yes, it is either in the clamp area, the line, or the steering area. The pump       itself looks clean.              RW> The worst case animal for that is valve cover gaskets. But todays engines       RW> are sealed pretty good at the engine factory and valve cover gasket leaks       RW> aren't found as often as they used to be.              My old 80 Malibu used to leak a small amount of oil on the value cover       gaskets. Nice light burning oil smell - but nothing major. It wasn't enough       to go through with a repair.              RW> My house is all-electric. Whatever we do, we insulate, insulate and seal       RW> doors and windows. This fall, between the hot summer and cold winter       RW> months, I intend to go around and check all of the door and window seals,       RW> again. During the spring and early summer months, the AC thermostat is       RW> set       RW> at 86F at 11pm and we open the bedroom and kitchen windows at night to       RW> cool off the house with a cross-flow of cool outside air. I've never       RW> heard       RW> the AC come on until the thermostat setting switches to 84F around 11am       RW> and I'll shut it off if the outside temp is lower than that. Around 3pm,       RW> the thermostat drops to 82F and I'll close the windows and rely on the AC       RW> to keep us cool until bedtime at midnite.              Is that when you have dry heat or humid heat? We have mostly humid heat       around here. I have it set to 75 when we are here during the day, and 73 at       night. It goes up to 80 when we are at work.               I have been blasting the A/C in my car this summer. I come home and my face       is to cold that my sunglasses fog up instantly after getting out of the car.              RW> Growing up in humid summer months in Illinois, all we had was a 7" window       RW> fan in each room...all that ever accomplished was to keep me awake to       RW> suffer the humidity even longer. I eventually learned about A/C systems       RW> when I went to work in a dairy when I was 16...              Good choice.. :)              RW> I used to install TV/Radio antennas when I was in highschool and a few       RW> years after, part time. I was never afraid of a tall roof or tower until       RW> the day a co-worker fell from a 100ft tower and died. All that did though       RW> was make me more aware of the dangers of tower climbing. I still climbed       RW> towers and installed antennas though.       RW>        RW> I saw an interesting TV install at my dad's 3 story house when he and mom       RW> first moved into it. There was a 3rd story room that you could see 360       RW> degrees for mile upon mile. In the peaked center of that room was a TV       RW> rotor, that had a mast going outside and a TV antenna mounted to it. I       RW> wasn't too surprised by that until I realized that the only way up there       RW> to install the antenna and a hole vent cover was to use an extension       RW> ladder from the 2nd story roof. That roof was as angled as the 3rd story       RW> roof, making an extension ladder as unsteady as all get out. I didn't       RW> envy       RW> the installer that job and never volunteered to go up there to fix it       RW> when       RW> it broke.              I'll ride my HD between two trucks on the major innerstate, but never been a       fan of getting on the roof.               I did get on the roof of my house growing up as a kid so I could install my       first weather station. The difference was there was a back porch that had a       flat roof, so if I started to slide down - I could use that as a safety-net.              RW> If there is roof access through an attic window, I'd do that job. If I       RW> have to use a tall ladder, at my age I won't do it anymore. But I would       RW> have 30 years ago.              Me too. I would do it if I could get to the roof from the attic. Still       wouldn't be lovin' it, but would do it.              - Mark              --- WWIVToss v.1.50         * Origin: http://www.weather-station.org * Bel Air, MD -USA (1:261/1304.0)    |
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