> CV shaft R&R isn't that hard. It's the special tools you might need to do   
    > it. You don't have to repair the CV joints, as new joints are assembled to   
    > rebuilt shafts for you and it's just an exchange thing at the parts store.   
      
   Alldata does mention several special tools, but the only one that I think   
   would be of help is the slide hammer.  That is what you are supposed to use to   
   pull the axle from the transmission side.  Otherwise, I would assume it would   
   be just good old elbow grease.  Yes, there is no point in repairing them,   
   since you can get them already rebuilt for around the same amount of money.    
   They aren't super expensive when rebuilt.   
      
    > My Z28 came with a six speed manual transmission which has a 1st to 2nd   
    > and 2nd to 3rd lockout solinoid so that if you're driving in certain low   
    > speed conditions, the trans will only shift into 4th. (supposedly a   
    > federal mandate to save gas). The cure for this BS was to install a 220   
    > kohm resistor across the connecter-plug terminals, which fools the CPM   
    > into thinking the solinoid is still connected. The light on the dash that   
    > says 'shift' still comes on, but there is no code written in the CPM. This   
    > type of fix might be used to fix that door striker thing. Check the   
    > resistance across the sensor and replace it with a resistor of like   
    > resistance. The resistance used doesn't have to be exactly the same as   
    > the sensor, just in the ballpark.   
      
   I was thinking about something similar yesterday - that if I was unable to   
   find a striker right away, I could try a hack of the current one.  I would be   
   happy if I could just get it to think the door was always closed - at least   
   for the short term.  It wouldn't be a big deal if it wasn't all wired into the   
   factory alarm system which as I understand, it isn't really possible to   
   de-activate it.  Apparently, Ford/Mercury only made this particular striker   
   for (2) years (1999 and 2000), and then changed the design.  It has been   
   discontinued at the factory and I know of no OEM.  The striker has the door   
   jam switch in it (electrical connector under a rubber boot).     
      
   We should have the new one here sometime soon and as I see it, I have a 50/50   
   shot at getting the side with the problem.  More than likely, it is the   
   driver's side.  It was one thing when the dome light was flicking on/off on   
   her, but the car shutoff early this week is really not good.  Sometimes it is   
   the smallest thing you would never expect causing the biggest problem.  That's   
   what I told my daughter when she thought her car died and I just   
   locked/unlocked, go in and started it right up.  :)   
      
   - Mark   
      
   --- WWIVToss v.1.40 Registered    
    * Origin:  http://www.weather-station.org * Bel Air, MD -USA (1:261/1304.0)