d, repeat the process for the other end piece.   
      
   Next, take one of the 24" x 48" pieces and place it over the partially   
   assembled bottom end. Line it up and secure it in place with the   
   finishing nails. Do not drive the nails in all the way. Repeat the   
   process on the other side. You now have two strips of plywood left.   
   These pieces are 48" long and will have to be cut so that they are also   
   46-1/2". The accuracy of this cut is not important and can be done at   
   home. Square it up and fit it inside the top lip of the tank. Repeat   
   this process on the other side.   
      
   Now draw a straight-line 3/8" from all edges on both sides and the   
   bottom side of the end. Then, starting from about 2" from the end of all   
   the lines, make a pencil mark every 3". This mark will be where the   
   screw holes are drilled. At most lumber companies and discount stores   
   you can buy a drill with a countersink attached. Ask the clerk to   
   provide you with the proper size for a #10 screw. If you cannot find a   
   drill with an attached countersink, it will be necessary to buy a   
   separate one. This should not be necessary, however, since the   
   combination unit is readily available. Once obtained, drill all the   
   holes that you have indicated with a pencil mark. Do not drill too   
   deeply. The head of the screw, when set, should be approximately 1/16"   
   below the surface of the wood.   
      
   Mark the sides so that the tank can be put back exactly as it was, then   
   disassemble the unit. Shake out the sawdust and sand off any   
   irregularities caused by the drilling. Do not over sand and change the   
   contour of the wood.   
      
   Mark the sides so that the tank can be put back exactly as you assembled   
   it before, paying attention to your assembly indicator marks. This time,   
   however, a bead of Elmer's waterproof glue is applied. The finishing   
   nails can now be driven in all the way and the tank screwed together. It   
   is very tiring and slow, tedious job if you are using a standard   
   screwdriver and not an electric drill with a screwdriver attachment. The   
   screws are staggered between the 2-1/2" and 3" length screws. Start the   
   row with a 2-1/2" screw and then alternate. Be sure the tank is   
   perfectly aligned before completing the final assembly. Wipe off the   
   excess glue before it hardens.   
      
   Once the glue has hardened, the next step is to cut out the front for   
   the insertion of the glass. It is only necessary that a 2-1/2" lip be   
   left on the front side, so draw lines in 2-1/2" from all sides. If you   
   desire rounded corners, use a soup can in each corner and draw the   
   necessary curve. Drill a hole on the inside of the line of sufficient   
   width to allow the insertion of a saber saw. Go slowly and cut out the   
   front of the tank. Don't force the saber saw by going too fast--taking   
   your time will result in a nice, even cut. Have someone hold up the   
   plywood as you complete the cut to avoid the weight of the inside panel   
   tearing the lip. If you didn't make the cut as even as you would like   
   it, now is the time to sand it down and improve its appearance.   
      
   On the cut ends of the plywood, there will be gaps of holes inherent in   
   the manufacturing of this product. Fill in these holes whenever noticed   
   using plastic wood. When dry, sand the filled edges to a smooth finish.   
   Shake all the sawdust out of the tank and dust it carefully. A vacuum   
   cleaner hose with a brush attachment makes the job easier. You can   
   finish the fine dusting with a tack cloth just prior to painting the   
   inside.   
      
   The best paint found is Pratt & Lambert, which is readily available. Be   
   sure to get Gloss Activator since it produces a much better finish for   
   this use. Do not use any paint that does not require the mixing with an   
   activator. There are paints that don't require mixing which have the   
   word "epoxy" on their label, but they are totally useless for this type   
   of work. You must use an epoxy paint that utilizes an activator, or   
   catalyst.   
      
   When mixing, follow the directions and mix only enough for one coat.   
   Once the paint is mixed, it cannot be stored and must be used within a   
   few hours. It is only necessary to paint the inside and the edges with   
   epoxy unless you want to--it is only a waste of money. After painting   
   the first coat, allow the tank to dry for 24 hours, then re-coat. Some   
   aquarists use only two coats. However, three coats are preferred. The   
   latter would be necessary if you were going to use the tank as a marine   
   aquarium. The 1/2-gallon of paint is enough for three coats.   
      
   After the final coat of paint is dry, many aquarists put a light beading   
   of silicon aquarium sealant in all corners. In most cases, this is not   
   necessary but applying it will serve as insurance against leakage,   
   should there be a bubble or crack in one of the corners.   
      
   The final step is the insertion of the glass. Cut the end of the   
   silicone sealant spout to its widest opening. Place the tank with the   
   cut side down and run a continuous bead of silicone aquarium sealant all   
   around the lip. Center the silicone beads so that they are about 1/2 way   
   between the edge and the sides of the tank. Take the glass, tilt it and   
   set it on top of the silicone bead. Press it firmly down on all edges.   
   It is a good idea to take a couple of pails of water, or other weights,   
   and set on top of the glass to keep pressure on the silicone beads until   
   they are set. Let it cure for a few days, then remove the weights. Trim   
   off any excess silicone sealant and test the tank. This is accomplished   
   by filling with water. If no leaks appear then drain, the water and you   
   can put the tank in service. Should any leaks occur--an unlikely   
   occurrence--a little silicone aquarium sealant will quickly seal it.   
      
   If the aquarium is to be used in the basement fish room, a coat or two   
   of latex paint will be satisfactory for the exterior. If, however, it is   
   to be used in a more formal setting, the tank can be faced with stained   
   or varnished paneling or other desired finish.   
      
   This is an economical way to acquire a large tank. Given proper care,   
   the life of your new tank should be a lengthy one. I have 100-gallon   
   tanks that were built 20 years ago and are still in service!   
      
   ==== End "plytank1.txt" ====   
      
   )\/(ark   
      
   Always Mount a Scratch Monkey   
   Do you manage your own servers? If you are not running an IDS/IPS yer doin' it   
   wrong...   
   ... I'm a Chowhound not a Foodie!   
   ---   
    * Origin:  (1:3634/12.73)   
   t all   
   around the lip. Center the silicone beads so that they are about 1/2 way   
   between the edge and the sides of the tank. Take the glass, tilt it and   
   set it on top of the silicone bead. Press it firmly down on all edges.   
   It is a good idea to take a couple of pails of water, or other weights,   
   and set on top of the glass to keep pressure on the silicone beads until   
   they are set. Let it cure for a few days, then remove the weights. Trim   
   off any excess silicone sealant and test the tank. This is accomplished   
   by filling with water. If no leaks appear then drain, the water and you   
   can put the tank in service. Should any leaks occur--an unlikely   
   occurrence--a little silicone aquarium sealant will quickly seal it.   
      
   If the aquarium is to be used in the basement fish room, a coat or two   
   of latex paint will be satisfactory for the exterior. If, however, it is   
   to be used in a more formal setting, the tank can be faced with stained   
   or varnished paneling or other desired finish.   
      
   This is an economical way to acquire a large tank. Given proper care,   
   the life of your new tank should be a lengthy one. I have 100-gallon   
   tanks that were built 20 years ago and are still in service!   
      
   ==== End "plytank1.txt" ====   
      
   )\/(ark   
      
   Always Mount a Scratch Monkey   
   Do you manage your own servers? If you are not running an IDS/IPS yer doin' it   
   wrong...   
   ... I'm a Chowhound not a Foodie!   
   ---   
    * Origin:  (1:3634/12.73)