Greetings Ed!   
      
    RW>> In a printed medium such as this, the spacing is what makes or   
    RW>> breaks your morse. i.e. your D reads like an R. __. vs --.   
    RW>> where the latter shows enough of a space between Dahs to   
    RW>> recognize the character.   
      
    EV> D typed my way, _..  R. would look like, ._. .   
      
   (slaps forhead)   
      
   -.. is a D, .-. is an R...(memory lapse is my excuse)   
      
    EV> Oh!, I think You meant "your G" instead "your D" above???   
      
   -.. .  .-. --- -.--  - .... .. ...  .. ...  .-  --. (G).   
      
      
    EV>> . = Low Tone   
      
    RW>> Dit - high tone   
      
    EV>> - = High Tone   
      
    RW>> Dah - low tone   
      
    EV> I didn't know of a FSK CW Standard when I chose what Tone for the   
    EV> Morse Code Elements.   
      
    EV> I saw Your line of CW as a period being lower in elevation than the   
    EV> hyphen was, so I assigned the Tones as they looked to me on my   
    EV> screen.   
      
   I used the way they would sound vs what they looked like.   
      
    EV>> I still would prefer using the J-38 Key with the Plastic Base   
    EV>> reversed on the Key by removing the Two Screws, reversing the Base   
    EV>> and re-fastening the Two Screws.   
      
    RW>> I never used any speed aides, I was able to send faster than I   
    RW>> could read with a regular key.   
      
    EV> A J-38 Key is IIRC a Military Number for a Hand Key, I'm surprised   
    EV> that You thought it was a "speed aid".   
      
   I no longer have a key, but I do remember the military type of key, which   
   is what I used, exclusively.   
      
    EV> The Plastic? (Phenolic?, Bakelite?) Base the Key was mounted on   
    EV> allowed the Knob on the Key Lever to extend over the operating table,   
    EV> instead of over the Base, and to use the Key to send CW I would have   
    EV> to hold the other end of the Key down so it wouldn't flip up and down   
    EV> when I was sending CW.   
      
   I fixed that problem by mounting the key to a 1/2" thick brass plate with   
   rubber feet.   
      
    EV> I learned of a 'Tip' to reverse the Base so the Knob would be over   
    EV> some of the Base and I wouldn't have to hold the Key down when I used   
    EV> it, the 'Tip' IIRC was printed in a A.R.R.L. Book called "Hints and   
    EV> Kinks".   
      
   You could have done as I did, but instead use old wheel weights (lead and   
   antimony) to make yourself a mounting plate.   
      
    EV>> I have a Vibroplex Bug too but found out I send better CW with the   
    EV>> J-38 Key.   
      
    RW>> I had a Vibroplex key, but gave it to somebody who had a better   
    RW>> use for it than I did.   
      
    EV> I thought of building an Accu-Keyer and getting a Key for it, but   
    EV> never did.   
      
    EV>> ... I just figured out PI to the seventy-fifth decimal place.   
      
    RW>> PI are the last two letters of my original Advanced call. KB6PI   
      
    RW>> ... Kissed By Six Pretty Indians   
      
    EV> I've used Zero Intelligence Quotient, Washers Screws and Bolts and   
    EV> now Old Dirty Rat (or Oldsmobile Dodge and Ramblers). 73   
      
   WN6ABE - ?   
   WD6DOI - Washed Down 6 Dirty Old Indian (and more)   
   N6AGT - Number 6 After Giving Two   
   K6RXT - see next   
   K5RXT - King 5 Really Xtra Terrific   
      
       Have a day!   
      
            R\%/itt - K5RXT   
      
   --- GoldED+/W32 1.1.5-31012   
   --- D'Bridge 3.99   
    * Origin: HAM Radio, aka Amateur Radio. 804? Over! (1:387/22)