file: how_to
These are some very high-level instructions for building the K1PGM.  Not
really a lot to say.   Most of the construction is self-explanatory using 
the PCB artwork, the overlay, and the schematic.  I'm assuming you know the
basics of assembling programs into .S19 files and such.  Check out the
k1info file or my original post for references.

If you're wire-wrapping, go by the schematic (you're on your own).

If you're using a PCB:

Using the overlay and schematic for direction, solder the parts in place 
on the PCB.  The most tedious part here is the cabling.  The overlay has 
numbers to the left of the pads indicating which pins on the PC parallel 
port to connect to.

I've used two different methods for cabling.  The cheapest and simplest is
to hack the Centronics connector off of a printer cable and use a
continuity tester to determine which wires go to which pins.  If you're
using the kit, the cable used comes from MECI and has the following
connections.  These are in the order they are on the board looking at it
from the component side with the pads on the left.  They are listed as
color1-color2 where color1 is the wire color and color2 is the stripe
color:

	WHT-GRN (6)
	BRN-WHT (7)
	WHT-BRN (8)
	GRY-WHT (9)
	RED-GRN (16)
	BLU-WHT (1)
	RED-BLU (12)
	WHT-GRY (10)
	WHT-BLU (2)
	ORG-WHT (3)
	WHT-ORG (4)
	GRN-WHT (5)
	GRN-BLK (25)

The ground conection to pin 25 usually works fine.  On some PCs you may
have to connect pins 18 through 25 together.

The second method for cabling is to use a short pigtail connected to the
board with a DB-25 connector on the end.  This allows you to use a
straight-through cable to connect the K1PGM to your PC parallel port.  If
you use a flexible piece of 15-conductor cable for the pigtail it helps
keep the K1PGM from moving all over the place at the mercy of the thick
25-conductor cable to the PC.  Of course it's a pain to connect all those
wires to the DB-25 connector.

Once it's assembled, apply 9VDC to the power connector.  Make sure you
observe polarity.  There is a diode to protect the circuit if you mess up.
Leave the 'K1 out of its socket for now.

Check for 5VDC on the output lead of the 7805 (lead farthest from power
connector).  If that's OK, measure the voltage at pin 6 of the TL497 and
adjust P1 until it is 16.5VDC.

With that done, turn off power to the K1PGM, slide the Vpp switch off
(closest to edge of board where cable connects), and connect the K1PGM to
your PC parallel port.  Now run prog05k.  It will ask which port you have
the programmer connected to - answer that.  It will then walk you through
the steps of inserting the 'K1, applying Vcc, applying Vpp,...  The
programming menu comes up initially set on Blank Checking.  This is a good
place to start.  Hit return and it should blank check the 'K1.  If this
doen't work, check that the 'K1 is firmly seated in it's socket.  The
"burn-in" socket in the kit takes some pressure to seat the 'K1.  A ZIF/LIF
socket would be better, but much more expensive (see design goals in k1info
file).  If it still doesn't work check component placement, cabling, etc.
Again, I'm assuming some basic electronics building experience here (debug
mode on ;).

If you are stuck, send me e-mail at wrb@cbnews.att.com and I will help as
much as I can.  Good luck and have fun!
