Subject: Fencing FAQ (part 1)
Supersedes: <sports/fencing-faq/part1_827233826@rtfm.mit.edu>
Date: 3 Apr 1996 22:14:56 GMT
Summary: Issues relevant to fencing and other swordfighting martial arts.
X-Last-Updated: 1996/03/30

Version: 5.07


FENCING

This is a list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) with answers, compiled
for the UseNet newsgroup rec.sport.fencing.  It is intended to reduce
repetitive discussions on the Net by addressing commonly raised topics.
This document is maintained by Morgan Burke (morgan@sitka.triumf.ca).
Contributions, corrections, and suggestions are welcome.  An HTML version
is available upon request.

Most of the questions and answers pertain to FIE (Olympic) Fencing;
Japanese fencing (kendo, kenjustsu, iaido, etc.) is treated in a
separate FAQ list ("Japanese Sword Arts") that can occasionally be
found in the newsgroups rec.sport.fencing or rec.martial-arts, or on
the IAIDO-L mailing list (see section 3.8 for details).  The Japanese
Sword Arts FAQ is maintained by Neil Gendzwill (gendzwill@SEDSystems.ca).

The Fencing FAQ is presented in three parts:

1. GENERAL: common questions about starting fencing, training, and
   rules of competition
2. EQUIPMENT: fencing equipment, maintenance, and troubleshooting
3. REFERENCE: organizations, suppliers, reading materials, net
   resources, glossary, etc.

All parts can be found on the UseNet newsgroups rec.sport.fencing,
rec.answers, or news.answers.  Otherwise, consult section 3.8 for
information on finding archived copies of this document.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

PART I: General

General:
1.1  What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?
1.2  How did fencing originate?
1.3  How is modern fencing different from the "real thing"?   *** new
1.4  Which is the best weapon?
1.5  Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?   *** revised

Getting Started:
1.6  Does it hurt?
1.7  What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?
1.8  How long does it take to become good?
1.9  What qualities make a good fencer?
1.10 How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?
1.11 How do I find a good fencing club?

Training:
1.12 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?
1.13 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach?

Regulations:
1.14 What is right of way?
1.15 What constitutes an attack?
1.16 What constitutes a parry?
1.17 What constitutes a point-in-line?
1.18 What is the scoop on "flicks" and "whips"?
1.19 What are the latest rule changes?

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1.1  What sports and martial arts comprise fencing?
 
     The Olympic sport of fencing is comprised of three weapons: foil,
     epee, and sabre.  All are fenced on a long rectangular strip, and
     electronic scoring aids are normally used to assist in the
     detection of touches.  The rules governing these three weapons
     are determined by the FIE (Federation Internationale d'Escrime).
     Briefly, the FIE weapons are described as follows:

     Foil:   Descended from the 18th century small sword, the foil has a
        thin, flexible blade with a square cross-section and a small
        bell guard.  Touches are scored with the point on the torso of
        the opponent, including the groin and back.  Foil technique
        emphasizes strong defense and the killing attack to the body.
 
     Epee:   Similar to the duelling swords of the mid-19th century,
        epees have stiff blades with a triangular cross section,
        and large bell guards.  Touches are scored with the point,
        anywhere on the opponent's body.  Unlike foil and sabre, there
        no rules of right-of-way to decide which attacks have precedence,
        and double hits are possible.  Epee technique emphasises timing,
        point control, and a good counter-attack.
 
     Sabre:   Descended from naval and cavalry swords of the late 19th
        century, sabres have a light, flat blade and a knuckle guard.
        Touches can be scored with either the point or the edge of the
        blade, anywhere above the opponent's waist.  Sabre technique
        emphasises speed, feints, and strong offense.
 
     The most popular of eastern fencing techniques is kendo, the Japanese
     "Way of the Sword".  Kendo is fought with a bamboo shinai, intended
     to resemble a two-handed Japanese battle sword.  Combatants wear
     armour, and strike to the top or sides of the head, the sides of the
     body, the throat, or the wrists.  Accepted technique must be
     observed, and judges watch for accuracy, power, and spirit.  See the
     Japanese Sword Arts FAQ for more information.
 
     Other martial arts that include elements of swordsmanship are:
 
     Aikido -- self defence against armed and unarmed attackers.  Includes
        using and defending oneself against Japanese sword techniques.
     Arnis, Escrima -- stick fighting.
     Iaido -- the Japanese art of the draw.
     Kenjutsu -- the unadulterated Japanese martial art of the sword.
     Kung-fu -- a Chinese martial art that includes many sword techniques.
     Modern Pentathlon -- the "soldier's medley", a sport that recreates
        demands placed on a pre-20th century military messenger:  running,
        swimming, shooting, equestrian jumping, and epee fencing.
     Single Stick -- an ancestor of sabre fencing, fought with a
        basket-hilted wooden rod.
     SCA -- the "Society for Creative Anachronism", an organization that
        attempts to re-create the lifestyle of Medieval Europe, including
        jousts and tourneys.  Emphasizes heavy weapon and shield
        techniques, the use of armour, Florentine fencing, and fencing
        in the round.  Additional info on the SCA can be found in the
        newsgroup rec.org.sca.
     Tai Chi -- another Chinese martial art that includes many sword
        techniques.

1.2  How did fencing originate?

     Swordfighting as sport has existed since ancient Egypt, and has
     been practiced in many forms in various cultures since then.
     Although jousting and tournament combat was a popular sport in
     the European middle ages, modern FIE fencing owes more to
     unarmoured duelling forms that evolved from 16th century rapier
     combat.

     Although rapier combat had a nominal military role (for thrusting
     into the chinks of heavy armour), it was most popular amongst
     civilians who used it for self-defence and duelling.  Rapiers
     were edged, but the primary means of attack was the thrust.
     Rapier fencing spread from Italy to Spain and northwest Europe,
     in spite of the objections of masters such as George Silver who
     preferred traditional cutting weapons such the English long
     sword.

     The Spanish school, under masters such as Narvaez and Thibault,
     became a complicated and mystical affair whose geometrical
     theories required much practice to master.  Italian masters like
     Agrippa and Capo Ferro developed a more pragmatic school in the
     late 16th and early 17th centuries, introducing innovations such
     as linear fencing and the lunge.

     By the 18th century, the rapier had evolved to a simpler,
     shorter, and lighter design that was popularized in France as the
     small sword, or court sword.  Although the small sword often had
     an edge, it was only to discourage the opponent from grabbing the
     blade, and the weapon was used exclusively for thrusting.  The
     light weight made a more complex and defensive style possible,
     and the French masters developed a school based on subtlety of
     movement, double-time parries, and complex attacks.  When
     buttoned with a leather safety tip that resembled a flower, the
     small sword was known as le fleuret, and was identical in use to
     the modern foil (still known as le fleuret in French).  Indeed,
     the French small sword school forms the basis of most of modern
     fencing theory.

     By the mid-19th century, duelling was in decline as a means of
     settling disputes, partially because victory could lead to a jail
     term for assault or manslaughter.  Emphasis shifted to defeating 
     the opponent without necessarily killing him, and less fatal 
     duelling forms evolved using the duelling sword, or epee de combat, 
     an unedged variant of the small sword.  Later duels often ended 
     with crippling thrusts to the arm or leg, and fewer legal 
     difficulties for the participants.  This is the basis of modern 
     epee fencing.

     Cutting swords had been used in bloodsports such as backsword
     prizefights at least as far back as the 17th century.
     Broadswords, sabres, and cutlasses were used extensively in
     military circles, especially by cavalry and naval personell, and
     saw some duelling application in these circles as well.  Training
     was performed with wooden weapons, and stick fighting remained
     popular until Italian masters formalized sabre fencing into a
     non-fatal sporting/training form with metal weapons in the late
     19th century.  Early sport sabres were significantly heavier than
     the modern sport sabre and necessitated a strong style with the
     use of moulinets and other bold movements.  As with thrusting
     swords, the sabre evolved to lighter, less fatal duelling forms
     such as the Italian sciabola di terro and the German schlager.
     Hungarian masters developed a new school of sabre fencing that
     emphasized finger control over arm strength, and they dominated
     sabre fencing for most of the 20th century.

     Duelling faded away altogether in the early 20th century.  According 
     to E.F. Morton (A-Z of Fencing) the last widely publicized formal 
     duel occurred in France in 1954, ending with a scratch to the arm.  
     German fraternity (schlager) duelling persisted longer, and may 
     still occur with some frequency.

     The first modern Olympic games featured foil and sabre fencing
     for men only.  Epee was introduced in 1900.  Single stick was
     featured in the 1904 games.  Epee was electrified in the 1936
     games, foil in 1956, and sabre in 1988.  Early Olympic games
     featured events for Masters, and until recently fencing was the
     only Olympic sport that has included professionals.  Disruptions
     in prevailing styles have accompanied the introduction of
     electric judging, most recently disturbing sabre fencing.  Foil
     fencing experienced similar upheavals for a decade or two
     following the introduction of electric judging, which were
     further complicated by the new, aggressive, athletic style coming
     out of eastern Europe at the time.

     Women's foil was first contested in the 1924 Olympic games, and
     Women's epee will only be contested for the first time in 1996,
     although it has been part of the World Championships since 1989.
     Women's sabre has a small amount of grassroots support, but has
     not made much impact yet on the national and international
     scenes.

1.3  How is modern fencing different from the "real thing"?

     Different people mean different things by "real" fencing.

     For some, "real" fencing is a duel with sharp swords and lives on
     the line.  The primary difference here is that with live blades
     you only need to hit your opponent once, and therefore only
     require one good move (which explains the prevalence of "secret
     thrusts" in the bad old days).  The modern fencer, by comparison,
     has to hit his opponent as many as 15 times (even more if the
     officiating is poor!), and so requires considerably more depth
     than the duellist.  On the other hand, the modern fencer takes
     many more defensive risks, since he has up to 15 lives to work
     with.

     Some purists will equate "real" fencing with classical fencing,
     ie. the prevalent styles of the traditional French and Italian
     schools of fencing that predominated before electric fencing was
     popularized.  By comparison, modern fencing is faster, more
     mobile, and requires a more highly developed sense of timing.  On
     the flip side, classical fencers were known for their more
     sophisticated phrasing and bladework.

     A few fans of heavy metal think real fencing is only done with
     big, strong swords, and that light duelling-style weapons are
     toys.  Historically, however, light thrusting swords evolved
     because they were considerably more deadly than heavy cutting
     weapons.  Many masters of the 17th century disliked the new
     schools of fencing precisely because they were too murderous.
     However, the light duelling sabres that arose near the end of
     the 19th Century did lack offensive punch on the cut compared
     with their more military antecedents.

     Lastly, it just seems apparent to some that sport fencing has
     evolved away from its bloody origins.  Technically, this is
     untrue; the theory, methods, and techniques of fencing have not
     seen significant innovation since at least the last century.  The
     modern fencer remains well-equipped, skill-wise, to fight a duel.
     Tactically, however, it is fair to say that the sport is a vastly
     different world from the duel.  First, (as mentioned already) the
     sport fencer must hit his opponent up to 15 times, and can
     withstand a certain number of hits himself without danger.
     Secondly, the sport does not rate the quality of hits (eg. fatal
     vs. serious wound vs. minor scratch), since that would be both
     difficult and highly subjective.  With one hit as good as
     another, sport fencers will naturally prefer an easy "wounding"
     hit over a difficult "fatal" hit.  As a result, light, glancing
     hits will sometimes win out over strong thrusts, and fencers
     sometimes appear to be furiously struggling to "scratch" each
     other up.

1.4  Which is the best weapon?
 
     Such a question is an open invitation to religious warfare.
     Everybody loves to participate, but nothing is ever settled.
 
     If the question means "what kind of fencing is the most fun?" then
     the answer is: it depends what aspects of fencing you enjoy the most.
     If you are fascinated by technique, bladework, and tactics, you will
     probably get a lot of satisfaction from foil fencing.  More visceral
     fencers who want to experience the adrenaline rush of a fast,
     agressive sword fight will want to try some sabre.  Most epee fencers
     consider themselves practical, no-nonsense sword fighters who rely on
     as few artificial rules as possible.  Enthusiasts of more medieval
     combat styles, involving armour and heavy weapons, should consider
     joining the SCA or a kendo dojo.
 
     On the other hand, if the question means "which weapon is the most
     deadly?"  the answer will depend on a lot of factors, not the least
     of which are the skill of the combatants, the presence of armour, the
     military and cultural context, and the rules of the fight (ie. is
     this a street fight, a gentlemen's duel, or open field warfare?).
     Most swords are highly optimized for performance in a specific
     environment, and will not perform well outside it.  Comparing two
     swords from completely different historical contexts is therefore
     extremely difficult, if not downright silly.
 
     Then again, perhaps the question means "which style of fencing is
     the most realistic?"  It must be said that questions of realism have
     little relevance to an activity that has almost no practical
     application in the modern world other than sport and fitness.
     Historically, however, epees have the closest resemblance (among FIE
     weapons) to real duelling swords, and the rules closely parallel
     those of actual duels (sometimes being fought to only a single
     point).  Other martial arts with a high realism factor include
     kenjutsu and some aspects of SCA fighting.
 
1.5  Is fencing going to be eliminated from the Olympics?

     Olympic fencing appears to be safe for Atlanta 1996 and Sydney
     2000, and has even been expanded to include Women's Epee.  Since
     the IOC perpetually changes its roster of Olympic sports, nothing
     is certain beyond then.  Although fencing is one of only four
     sports to have been involved in every modern Olympic Games since
     their inception in 1896, it has been mentioned in the past as one
     of the disciplines that may be eliminated from future Games.
 
     According to Gilbert Felli, Sports Director of the International
     Olympic Committee, the IOC plans to refine future games in 
     various ways, including:
        -- limiting the number of athletes to 15000
        -- increasing participation by women
        -- eliminating "so-called artificial team events"
        -- limiting sports of a similar type
        -- modernizing the Olympic program
        -- encouraging sports that provide a good television spectacle

     Fencing recently underwent numerous revisions to its rules and
     structure to improve its value as a (televised?) spectator sport,
     perhaps in the hopes of improving its Olympic viability.
 
1.6  Does it hurt?
 
     Not if done properly.  Although executed with appreciable energy,
     a good, clean fencing attack hurts no more than a tap on the
     shoulder.  The force of the blow is normally absorbed by the flex
     of the blade.  Reckless and overly aggressive fencers can
     occasionally deliver painful blows, however.  Fencing *is* a
     martial art, so you should expect minor bruises and welts every
     now and again.  They are rarely intentional.  The most painful
     blows tend to come from inexperienced fencers who have not yet
     acquired the feel of the weapon.
 
     The primary source of injury in fencing is from pulled muscles
     and joints.  Proper warm-up and stretching before fencing will
     minimize these occurences.
 
     There is a risk of being injured by broken weapons.  The shards
     of a snapped blade can be very sharp and cause serious injury,
     especially if the fencer doesn't immediately realize his blade is
     broken, and continues fencing.  Always wear proper protective
     gear to reduce this risk.  FIE homologated jackets, britches, and
     masks are ideal, as they are made with puncture-resistant fabrics
     such as kevlar.  If you cannot afford such extravagances, use a
     plastron (half-jacket worn beneath the regular fencing jacket),
     and avoid old and rusty masks.  Always wear a glove that covers
     the cuff, to prevent blades from running up the sleeve.
 
     Fencing is often said to be safer than golf.  Whether or not this
     is true, it is an extraordinarily safe sport considering its
     heritage and nature.
 
1.7  What is the best weapon for a beginner to start with?
 
     Foil is the most common starter weapon.  It is an excellent weapon
     to begin with if you have no preferences or want to learn
     generalized principles of swordfighting.  Transitions to the other
     weapons from foil are relatively straight forward.  Foil is an
     abstracted form of fencing that emphasises proper defence, and
     cleanly executed killing attacks.  Historically it was a training
     weapon for the small sword, so it is well suited for the purposes of
     learning.  However, it is far from a simple weapon, and many
     experienced fencers return to foil after trying the others.
 
     Sabre can sometimes be an effective starter weapon, for a few
     reasons.  Like foil, it has rules of right-of-way to emphasize
     proper defense, and its de-emphasis of point attacks can be a
     relief to a beginner who doesn't yet have much point control.
     Also, in some areas it may still be possible to compete in dry
     sabre competitions, meaning that it can be the cheapest of all
     weapons to compete in (although electric sabre is definitely the
     most expensive weapon).  However, sabre differs from foil and
     epee in a few key respects that can reduce its effectiveness as a
     starter weapon if the fencer plans to try the others in the
     future.  Among these differences are the aforementioned
     de-emphasis of point attacks, and a different sense of timing and
     distance.
 
     Epee is sometimes used as a starter weapon for two reasons.  First,
     the rules are simple and easy to grasp, and second, the equipment
     costs are lower, since no lame' is required.  However, the apparent
     simplicity of the sport can obscure its subtleties to the beginner,
     and make progress difficult later on.  Furthermore, the lack of
     right-of-way in epee can make transitions to the other two weapons
     difficult, if put off for too long.
 
1.8  How long does it take to become good?
 
     There is a saying that it takes two lifetimes to master fencing.  By
     the time anyone has come close to "mastering" the sport, they are
     long past their athletic prime.  Some may feel that this is a
     drawback to the sport, but most fencers see it as a great strength:
     fencing never becomes dull or routine; there are always new skills to
     master, and new grounds to conquer.
 
     A dedicated novice who practices twice per week will be ready to
     try low-level competition in 3-6 months.  Competition at this point
     should be viewed as a learning aid, not as a dedicated effort to win.
 
     Serious attempts at competing will be possible after 2-3 years,
     when the basic skills have been sufficiently mastered that the
     mind is free to consider strategy.
 
     A moderate level of skill (eg. C classification) can take 3-5 years
     of regular practice and competition.
 
     Penetration of the elite ranks (eg. world cup, A classification)
     demands three to five days per week of practice and competition, and
     usually at least 10-15 years of experience.
 
     Progress can be faster or slower, depending on the fencer's aptitude,
     attitude, and dedication.  Rapid progress normally requires at least
     three practices per week, and regular competition against superior
     fencers.
 
     The average world champion is in his late 20s to early 30s and began
     fencing as a child.
 
1.9  What qualities make a good fencer?
 
     There are many.
 
     On the athletic side, speed and endurance must rank foremost.  Other
     traits that can be exploited are strength (for explosive speed, not
     heavy handedness), precision, and flexibility.  Quick reaction time 
     is extremely important.
 
     On the intellectual side, a good mind for strategy and tactics is
     essential.  The ability to quickly size up your opponent and adapt
     your style accordingly is essential.
 
     Psychologically, a fencer must be able to maintain focus, concentration,
     and emotional level-headedness under intense conditions of combat.
     Stress management, visualization, and relaxation techniques are all
     helpful to putting in winning performances.
 
     As far as body type goes, it is always possible to adapt your style
     to take advantage of your natural traits.  Even so, height seems to
     be useful in epee, but not necessarily in sabre.  Small or thin
     people are harder to hit in foil.  A long reach helps in epee, and
     long legs are an asset in foil.
 
     It should be noted that left handers usually enjoy a slight advantage,
     especially against inexperienced fencers.  This may account for the
     fact that lefties make up 15% of novice fencers, but half of FIE 
     world champions.
 
1.10  How much does it cost to get involved in fencing?

     Beginner's dry fencing setup:  about $100 - $200 US
        Includes: cotton jacket, glove, dry weapon, mask
 
     FIE Competition setup:  about $500 - $1000 US
        Includes: FIE 800N jacket & britches, FIE 1600N mask, at least
           2 electric weapons, body cord, socks, glove, shoes, lame
           (foil & sabre only), sensor (sabre only).
        Note: while FIE-certified equipment is recommended both in
           terms of safety and quality, clothing costs can be as much
           as halved by purchasing regular cotton or synthetic knits.
           Do not expect such equipment to be accepted at national or
           international levels of competition, however.  Always wear
           a plastron when using non-homologated fencing jackets.
 
     Club costs vary, but are usually on the order of $50-$100 per year
     for each day per week of fencing.  Many clubs will provide or rent
     equipment to beginners.

1.11 How do I find a good fencing club?
 
     Start with your local Provincial or Divisional fencing association.
     If you don't know how to find them, contact your national fencing body
     (see section 3.1).  Your national body may maintain a list of known
     fencing clubs in the country.  Otherwise, your local association will
     be able to tell you about recognized clubs in your area.  Many
     universities and colleges also sponsor fencing clubs and teams that
     will often accept non-students as members.  You might also check out
     courses or camps offered by local community centers.  American fencers
     with WWW access can find a list of U.S. fencing clubs at
     http://sarah.rsip.lsu.edu/fencing/fencing.clubs.html

     Once you have a list of potential clubs, you will want to
     evaluate them and your needs.  Desirable qualities vary, depending
     on your skill level and what you want to get out of fencing.
     Ask the following questions when selecting your club (if you're not
     sure what you want, "yes" is a good answer to all these questions):
     Does it have an active beginners' program?  Are there enough fencers
     of your own skill level?  Are there some fencers above your skill
     level?  If you don't have your own equipment, does the club provide
     it?  Does the club have ample electric scoring boxes and reels?  Does
     the club emphasize the same weapons that you are interested in?  Do
     club members compete regularly?  Does the club have a master or
     coach?  Has he/she had many competitive successes either fencing or
     coaching?  Can you get individual lessons and instruction?  At no
     extra cost?
 
     Lastly, atmosphere is important to any social endeavour.  Choose a
     club that makes you feel comfortable and relaxed without sacrificing
     the athletic spirit that is essential to progress.
 
1.12 What kind of cross-training will help my fencing?
 
     The best training for fencing is fencing.  Fencing development is 
     asymmetrical and few other sports use the same muscle groups, so 
     this is a difficult question whose answer depends largely on what 
     aspect of your training you really want to focus on.
 
     Cardiovascular fitness and leg strength always help, so anything that
     enhances these will be beneficial.  Cycling, swimming, aerobics, and
     skating are good examples.  Running, sprinting, soccer, basketball, 
     and similar sports can also be helpful, although some athletes dislike
     the stresses they put on the knees.  Racquet sports like tennis,
     badminton, squash, racquetball, and table tennis are also excellent,
     and will exercise your weapon arm in addition to your legs.
 
     Many martial arts have physical and mental demands that are similar
     to fencing, and can improve both your fitness and your intellectual
     approach to the sport.  Technique and tactics very rarely translate,
     however.
 
     Weight training can help, if done properly, but the athlete must
     remember that flexibility, speed, and technique are more important
     than raw strength.  Endurance training should have priority over
     bodybuilding.  Strength training can help, provided it doesn't
     compromise flexibility.  Most fencing weight-training programs
     concentrate heavily on leg and lower-body development.  Excessive
     weight training of the arms and upper body can adversely affect point
     control, according to some masters.  According to them, weighted
     wrist straps worn during regular practice are preferable.
 
     Some fencers maintain that juggling improves reactions, hand-eye
     coordination, and use of peripheral vision.
 
     Many coaches and fencers suggest occasional fencing or workouts with
     your opposite hand, both to improve skill and balance your muscular
     development.
 
1.13 How can I improve my technique without the help of a coach?
 
     It is very easy to acquire bad habits and poor technique if you do 
     not have the guidance of a knowledgable fencing master, coach, or 
     fellow fencer.  If you are serious about improving your fencing, 
     quality coaching is always your best investment.  However, a 
     disciplined fencer still has options if decent instruction is not 
     available on a regular basis.
 
     Firstly, a solid knowledge of fencing theory and regulations is a 
     must.  The freelance fencer should study the FIE Rules of 
     Competition and a good fencing manual (see Section 3.3).  The 
     fencer should test and apply this knowledge by presiding whenever 
     possible.  An appreciation of good fencing style is also 
     essential, so that the fencer can readily identify weaknesses in 
     his own and other fencers' techniques.  Observation and comparison 
     of skilled or accomplished fencers will develop this ability.  
     Training videotapes and videotapes of high-level competitions (see 
     Section 3.6) are also helpful in this regard.
 
     The freelance fencer must be open-minded and critical of his own 
     technique, so that he can recognize problems before they develop 
     into habits.  Discussion of his weaknesses with training opponents 
     will help him clarify the areas that need work.  If possible, he 
     should videotape his bouts and review them to spot defects in his 
     tactics and technique.
 
     The fencer should seek out opponents who will strenuously test 
     his weaknesses.  More experienced fencers, left-handers, those 
     whose tactics are particularly effective, and even those with 
     annoying (ie. difficult) styles should be courted on the practice 
     strip.  When fencing less skilled opponents, the fencer should 
     restrict his tactics to a small set that require practice, and 
     resist the temptation to open up if he should start losing.
 
     The opportunity to participate in footwork and line drills should 
     never be passed up.  When he can find an agreeable partner, the 
     fencer can do more personalized drills to exercise his weak areas.  
     (Of course it is courteous to indulge the needs of one's partner 
     when he in turn works on his own training.)
 
     Lastly, the fencer should remain aware of his bout psychology and 
     mental state when fencing, and try to cultivate the mindset that 
     in his experience produces good fencing.
 
1.14 What is right-of-way?
 
     Right-of-way is the set of rules used to determine who is awarded the
     point when there is a double touch in foil or sabre (ie. both fencers
     hit each other in the same fencing time).  It is detailed in the 
     FIE Rules of Competition, Articles 232-237 (foil) and 416-423 
     (sabre).
 
     The core assumption behind right-of-way is that a fencing bout is 
     always in one of three states:
 
         -- nothing significant is happening
         -- the fencers are conceiving and executing their actions
            simultaneously
         -- one fencer is controlling the action and tempo and the other
            is trying to gain control.

     Since no points will be scored in the first situation, we can ignore
     it.  In the second situation, the fencers' actions have equal
     significance, and it is impossible to award a touch.  Both touches 
     will be annulled and the bout will be resumed where it was 
     stopped.
 
     The third situation is the tricky one.  The controlling fencer has
     the right-of-way, and his hit has precedence over any hit from the
     other fencer.  The job of the director is to decide which
     fencer was NOT controlling the action, and annul his touch.  If he
     cannot decide, the director should abstain, annul BOTH hits, and
     resume the action where it left off.
 
     Control (and right-of-way) is taken whenever one fencer threatens
     the other with his blade.  A threat can be either an attack (see 
     question 1.15), or a "point in line" that is established before 
     the opponent attacks.
 
     Control (and right-of-way) is lost when an attack misses, falls
     short, is broken off, or is deflected away from the target by a
     parry or other engagement from the defender.  The defender has a
     split-second window of opportunity to return the attack
     (ie. riposte) before the attacker recovers; if he does so, he
     takes over right-of-way and the tables have turned.  Otherwise it
     is a toss-up; the first fencer to initiate an attack will sieze
     the right-of-way anew.
 
     The right-of-way relationships between common fencing actions are as
     follows:

     - derobement has right-of-way over attacks on the blade
     - attacks on the blade have right-of-way over the point in line
     - point in line has right-of-way over the attack
     - the simple attack has right-of-way over the stop-hit
     - the stop-hit has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
     - the stop-hit in time has right-of-way over the compound attack
     - the riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the attack
     - the counter-riposte has right-of-way over the renewal of the riposte
     - the remise of the attack has right-of-way over the delayed riposte

1.15 What constitutes an attack?
 
     According to Article 10 of the FIE rules of competition, "the 
     attack is the initial offensive action made by extending the arm 
     and continuously threatening the valid target of the opponent."
 
     A threatening weapon is normally interpreted to be one that will
     or could hit the opponent if no defensive action is taken.  In
     other words, a weapon threatens if it is moving towards the
     target in a smooth, unbroken trajectory.  This trajectory can be
     curved, especially if the attack is indirect, compound, or
     involves a cutting action.  Hesitations and movements of the
     blade away from the target will usually be perceived as a break
     in the attack or a preparation of the attack.
 
     One common misconception is that a straight or straightening arm
     is required to assert the attack.  However, neither the strict
     wording nor the prevailing interpretation of the above rule
     require that the attacker's arm become straight or even nearly
     so.  It is sufficient if the arm extends, even just slightly,
     from its normal on-guard position.  A long arm at the moment of
     the touch is still good style, though, since it gives superior
     reach and clearly shows the fencer's intent.  While the attack
     can often be asserted with only slight extension, retraction of
     the arm will almost always be interpreted as a break in the
     attack.
 
     Another common misconception is that a point attack does not
     threaten unless the point is aimed at the target.  This is not
     generally true.  An out-of-line point does threaten if it is moving
     towards the target on a smooth, unbroken trajectory.  The most
     common example of this is the coupe' (cut-over), in which the blade
     is pulled away from the target to avoid the the opponent's blade,
     and then returned into line to finish the attack.  Coupe' takes the
     right-of-way immediately, even though the point is initially pulled
     away.  So-called "flicks", relatives of the coupe' that involve
     whipping the foible of the blade around parries or blocking body
     parts, can also take the right-of-way when the blade starts its
     final forward stroke.
 
     Many fencers are under the mistaken impression that a bent arm or
     out-of-line point constitutes a preparation, and therefore that
     they can rightfully attack into it.  If the bent arm is extending
     and the out-of-line point is moving towards the target, however,
     this assumption is usually false under modern fencing conventions.
     A successful attack on the preparation must clearly precede the
     opponent's initiation of the phrase or a break in his attack, or
     else arrive a fencing time ahead of his touch.

     Sabre fencers must also consider Article 417 of the Rules of
     Competition, which states when the attack must land relative to the
     footfalls of a lunge, advance-lunge, (and fleche, historically).
     Attacks that arrive after the prescribed footfall are deemed
     continuations, and do not have right-of-way over the
     counter-attack.  Sabre fencers must also remember that whip-over
     touches can sometimes be interpreted as remises, and not
     mal-parries.

1.16 What constitutes a parry?
 
     According to Article 10 of the FIE Rules of Competition, "the 
     parry is the defensive action made with the weapon to prevent the 
     attack from arriving".
 
     A successful parry deflects the threatening blade away from the
     target.  It is not sufficient merely to find or touch the
     opponent's blade;  the fencer must also exhibit control over it.
     If the attack continues without any replacement of the point and
     makes a touch, it retains the right-of-way (mal-pare' by the
     defender).  If the attacker must replace the point into a
     threatening line before continuing, it is a remise (renewal of the
     attack) and does not have right-of-way over the riposte.

     A well-executed parry should take the foible of the attacker's
     blade with the forte and/or guard of the defender's.  This
     provides the greatest control over the opponent's blade.  In
     other cases the parry can still be seen as sufficient if the
     attacking blade is sufficiently deflected.  In ambiguous cases,
     however, the benefit of the doubt is usually given to the fencer
     who used his forte/guard.  For example, if a fencer attempts to
     parry using his foible on his opponent's forte, it will often be
     interpreted in the reverse sense (eg. counter-time parry by the
     attacker), since such an engagement does not normally result in
     much deflection of the attack.  A foible to foible parry could
     potentially be seen as a beat attack by the opposing fencer
     depending on the specifics of the action.

     At foil, the opponent's blade should not only be deflected away
     from the target, but away from off-target areas as well.  An 
     attack that is deflected off the valid target but onto invalid 
     target still retains right-of-way.
 
     At sabre, the opponent's blade need only be deflected away from
     valid target, since off-target touches do not stop the phrase.
     Cuts are considered parried if their forward movement is checked
     by a block with the blade or guard.  Otherwise, sabre parries
     must be particularly clean and clear to avoid the possibility of
     whip-over touches.
 
     At epee, a good parry is simply any one that gains enough time
     for the riposte.  Opposition parries and binds are commonly used,
     since they do not release the opponent's blade to allow a remise.

1.17 What constitutes a point-in-line?

     According to Article 233 section 6 of the FIE Rules of
     Competition, a point-in-line is a position "with the arm straight
     and the point threatening the valid target".

     Properly done, the arm should be extended as far as possible, and
     form a more or less continuous line with the blade.  Excessive
     angulation at the wrist or fingers negates the point-in-line.
     The point should be aimed directly at the high lines of the
     target.

     Superfluous movement of the point risks negating the line, 
     especially in sabre.  Derobements/trompements, however, are 
     permitted.

     In foil and sabre, the point-in-line has priority over attacks 
     that are made without first taking the blade.  With these 
     weapons (but not with epee) it is forbidden to assume the point-
     in-line position before the command to fence has been given.  In 
     sabre, a point-in-line that hits with the edge may be considered 
     to have missed, with the cut being considered a counter-attack 
     (assuming it even registers).

     Note that the rules say nothing whatsoever on the role of the
     feet in a point-in-line.  In principle, a point-in-line meets the
     rulebook definition in spite of any footwork that accompanies it,
     including lunges or fleches.  However, many referees are inclined
     to ignore or negate the point-in-line if it is accompanied by
     footwork, especially a lunge or a fleche, preferring to call it
     an attack or (more controversially) a counter-attack in those
     cases.

1.18 What is the scoop on "flicks" and "whips"?

     Flicks are whip-like attacks that can score against very oblique 
     and even concealed targets.  Sometimes thought of as a recent 
     corruption, flicks actually have a long history that stems from 
     coupe' (the cut-over) and epeeists efforts to throw their points 
     around the bell.  Properly executed and judged, they are effective 
     and beautiful attacks;  poorly executed and judged, they can be
     painful and annoying.

     One common criticism of the flick is that it would cause minor 
     injury with a real weapon.  The obvious, if flippant, response to 
     this is not to flick when fencing with a real weapon.

     Another common criticism is that flicks are difficult to 
     defend against.  One must simply remember to parry them as if 
     they were cuts, not thrusts (using auxiliary parries like tierce,
     quinte, and elevated sixte).  The flick is also highly sensitive 
     to distance, and a well-timed break in the measure will cause it 
     to land flat.

     A third criticism is that flicks are usually given the priority,
     even though the attack often begins with the point aimed at the 
     ceiling.  However, the definition of an attack (see question 1.14)
     says nothing about where the point is aimed, only what it is 
     threatening.  It is normally true that an attack that scores must
     have threatened in at least its final tempo.

     Sabre fencing has suffered from a related and more serious 
     scourge, the whip-over.  In this case, the foible bends around the 
     opponent's blade or guard following a parry, to contact the target 
     and register a touch.  The scoring machines attempt to reduce these
     false touches by blocking hits within a certain time window following
     weapon contact, but this is of limited effectiveness and also has the 
     unfortunate effect of blocking the occasional attack through the 
     blade.  Referees have tried to help out by analyzing whip-over
     touches as remises, but they still score over composed or delayed 
     ripostes.  The FIE has been considering and trying various possible 
     fixes, including varying the timeouts and mandating stiffer sabre 
     blades.

1.19 What are the latest rule changes?

     Most of the following rule amendments were introduced for the 
     1994/95 season.

     EQUIPMENT:
        - In foil, the bib is on target as of Oct 1, 1995.  [This 
          amendment appears to have been shelved.]
        - 800N underarm protector (plastron) is required in addition
          to the regular 800N jacket.
        - Clothing may be of different colours, but those on the body
          must be white or light-coloured.
        - Minimum width of the strip is now 1.5 metres.

     ETIQUETTE:
        - Salute of opponent, referee, and audience is mandatory at
          the start and end of the bout.

     BOUT FORMAT:
        - Coin flip to determine winner in the event of a tie shall be
          made at end of regulation time, and one additional minute
          shall be fenced.  The winner of the coin toss shall be
          recorded as the victor if the bout is not resolved by sudden
          death in the extra minute.
        - No more 1-minute warning, although fencers can request the
          time remaining at any normal halt in the action.
        - Fencers shall be placed at the en garde lines at the
          commencement of each 3-minute period in 15-touch elimination
          bouts.

     SCORING:
        - In sabre, simultaneous attacks that both arrive on the valid
          target do not result in any points being scored.
        - In sabre, any action in which the rear leg is crossed in
          front of the fore shall be penalized with a yellow card, or
          a red card if a yellow has already been given.  Any touch
          scored by the penalized fencer resulting from the cross-over
          action shall not be scored, although a properly-executed
          touch from the opponent is still valid.
        - In the team relay, the first pair of fencers fence to 5
          points or 4 minutes, whichever comes first.  The next pair
          continue from this score up to 10 points within 4 minutes,
          and so on up to a total score of 45 points.


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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS:

Author: Morgan Burke (morgan@sitka.triumf.ca)
Contributors: special thanks to Suman Palit, Guy Smith, Greg Dilworth,
        Kevin Taylor, Eric Anderson, Blaine Price, Steve Hick, Kim
        Moser, David Glasser, Bryan Mansfield, Donald Lane, Ann McBain,
        Hagen Lieffertz, Mark C. Orton, Mike Buckley, Dirk Goldar,
        Scott Holmes, Arild Dyrseth, David Airey, Renee Mcmeeken, Marc
        Walch, Eric Speicher, Anton Oskamp, Bernard Hunt, Francis Cordero,
        Kent Krumvieda, David Van Houten, John Crawford, Kim Taylor,
        Brendan Robertson, Ivo Volf, Kevin Wechtaluk, Frank Messemer,
        Benerson Little, Mark Crocker, Eileen Tan, Mark Tebault

(C) 1993-96 Morgan Burke
Permission is granted to copy and distribute all or part of this document
for non-profit purposes.

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End of rec.sport.fencing FAQ part I
