Subject: rec.pets.herp Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Supersedes: <herp-faq-1-824198402@qualcomm.com>
Date: 13 Mar 1996 00:00:04 -0800
Summary: This posting describes the newsgroup rec.pets.herp, and 
.should be read by prospective posters to that group.

Posted-By: auto-faq 3.2.1.4
Version: 1.0
Posting-Frequency: monthly (on the 13th)

======================================================================

.An Introduction to rec.pets.herp
..Nathan Tenny
..ntenny@qualcomm.com

==============================

Subject: 1. Introduction and Disclaimer

Welcome to rec.pets.herp!  This is a monthly informational posting that
answers some common questions and provides pointers to other sources of
information.  Aspiring posters to rec.pets.herp should read this document
first.

You are not expected to know everything in this document cold before posting;
there won't be an exam.  However, many of the most commonly asked questions,
especially by new posters, are at least partially answered here.  Take some
time to look through it; your problem may already be solved!

This document is provided as-is, with no expressed or implied warranty of
any kind.  Every effort has been made to make this FAQ an accurate and
comprehensive source of information; however, the maintainer offers no
guarantee that these efforts have been successful, and assumes no
responsibility for damages resulting from errors or omissions.

This document represents the understanding and opinion of the maintainer,
and, where possible, a consensus of posters to rec.pets.herp; it is not
endorsed by, and does not necessarily represent any position of, the
maintainer's employer.

==============================

Subject: 2. Table of Contents

1. Introduction and Disclaimer
2. Table of Contents
3. About this FAQ
.3.1. Author
.3.2. How to get the FAQ
.3.3. Acknowledgements
4. Generalities
.4.1. What is rec.pets.herp?
.4.2. What is sci.bio.herp?
.4.3. What is/isn't a herp?
.4.4. What about tarantulas, scorpions, and so on?
.4.5. What kind of questions are/aren't appropriate here?
.4.6. What does CB stand for?
.4.7. What does <some term> mean?
5. Other resources
.5.1. What other online resources exist?
.5.2. What are some good offline resources?
.5.3. How do I find a nearby herp society?
.5.4. Where do I get information about iguanas?
.5.5. Is there a care sheet for <whatever species>?
.5.6. What zoos have good herp collections?
6. Actual critter questions
.6.1. Where can I get a <whatever species>?
.6.2. How do I identify this creature in my yard?  Can I keep it?
.6.3. My <whatever species> got away.  How can I find it?
.6.4. Is there something wrong with using mealworms as food?
.6.5. I can't keep my <whatever species>.  What do I do?  Let it go?
.6.6. I just bought a <whatever species>.  How do I take care of it?
.6.7. Is it OK to order herps through the mail?  Over the net?
.6.8. What's a good first snake/lizard/frog/turtle?
.6.9. My kid wants a reptile; what should we get?

==============================

Subject: 3. About This FAQ


3.1. Author

Nathan Tenny.  Copyright 1995-1996 by Nathan Tenny.  This document may be
redistributed freely, but commercial publication requires the consent of
the author, and any modifications must be clearly indicated.  Herpetological
society documents that are paid for with membership dues are specifically
permitted to reprint any part of this document, with proper attribution.

The section on starter lizards and some of the material on acquiring a first
herp are summarized from documents by Melissa Kaplan.  The starter-turtle
paragraph was written by David Kirkpatrick.

===============

3.2. How to get the FAQ

You're reading it, right?  Save it. :-)

The latest version of this FAQ will always be available at
.ftp://rtfm.mit.edu/pub/usenet/news.answers/pets/herp-faq
The FAQ is posted on the 13th of each month to rec.pets.herp, rec.answers,
and news.answers.  It can also be obtained through a polite email request
sent to Nathan Tenny <ntenny@qualcomm.com>.  This is also the address to
send mail to if you have comments or suggestions about the FAQ.

===============

3.3. Acknowledgements

Many people have contributed to this FAQ.  Contributions have come directly
from Dave Beaty, Alta Brewer, Adam Britton, Liza Daly, Sirena Glade, Paul
Hollander, Melissa Kaplan, David Kirkpatrick, Rod Mitchell, Jessica Mosher,
Harrison Page, Rebecca Sobol, Mel Turner, and Colin Wilson, and indirectly
from the innumerable people whose posts the author has read and learned from.
Thanks are also due to the authors and maintainers of other FAQs and related
documents, including but not limited to Don Baldwin, Tom Buchanan, Peter
Donohue, Mike Pingleton, Michael Shannon, and Jennifer Swofford.  A big hand
for everyone.  If you know someone on this list, buy them lunch.

==============================

Subject: 4. Generalities


4.1. What is rec.pets.herp?

Here is the official charter of rec.pets.herp:

.This newsgroup is a forum for the discussion of vivarium-living
.animals as pets.  The discussion will be limited to Reptiles,
.Amphibians and miscellaneous exotic animals, such as tarantulas.

.Mammals, Birds and Fish will not be discussed in this group.
.The existing group rec.pets is useful but is often inundated
.with postings concerned with the more usual types of pets.  The
.new group will be a dedicated forum, where only the specified
.types of animal will be discussed.

In other words, rec.pets.herp is a group for discussion of reptiles and
amphibians as pets, along with assorted other vivarium-dwelling animals.
The last is generally understood to mean terrestrial invertebrates---insects,
tarantulas, scorpions, etc.

The "pet" connection is sometimes tenuous.  There have been long (and
constructive) threads about the genetics of captive populations and their
implications for reintroduction programs, for example.  Because many keepers
of pet herps are also breeders, or simply interested in the science of
herpetology, such discussions are generally welcome.

Discussions about raising animals as food items are common and accepted,
though they may be counter to the letter of the charter (since many common
food animals are mammals).  This is partly because of the obvious relevance
to herp keeping, but also because such discussions can be difficult to carry
on in rec.pets; many rat keepers, for instance, are uncomfortable with the
idea of rats as feeders, and some very unpleasant flame wars have emerged
from obnoxious postings about feeders there.  Keeping the feeder discussions
in rec.pets.herp is really a win-win situation.

In general, discussions of animal rights and other political matters are not
suitable for rec.pets.herp, unless they involve herps specifically in an
essential way.  For instance, discussions of herp-related legislation are
appropriate, but a thread about the alleged practice of kidnapping household
pets for use as laboratory animals is not.  This is doubly true since
political discussions are often both volatile and heavily crossposted, leading
to a large volume of posted material that is irrelevant to the group and
difficult for readers to wade through.

See also questions 4.3-4.5.

===============

4.2. What is sci.bio.herp?

More to the point, what *isn't* sci.bio.herp?

There are two herp newsgroups, this one and sci.bio.herp.  The latter is, as
its name suggests, about the science of herpetology.  It typically features
discussions on field techniques, taxonomy, and other subjects of interest to
the (scientific) herpetological community.

Many rec.pets.herp readers find it interesting to follow sci.bio.herp as well,
and occasionally one of us will have a question that's better posted there.
For instance, if you're curious about the recent taxonomic revision of the
python family, sci.bio.herp is a good place to ask for information.

However, sci.bio.herp is *not* an appropriate place to ask about pet keeping.
Historically, sci.bio.herp has had problems with postings that really belong
in rec.pets.herp.  "My ball python won't eat" is very much a rec.pets.herp
subject, for instance, and the sci.bio.herp folks have gotten understandably
tired of it.

===============

4.3. What is/isn't a herp?

The charter says "reptiles, amphibians, and other exotic vivarium pets", but
the word "herp" usually means "reptile or amphibian".  The world's living
reptiles are divided into six groups: Snakes, lizards, chelonians (turtles
and tortoises), crocodilians, the tuatara (a single lizardlike species from
New Zealand), and amphisbaenians ("worm lizards").  The amphibians consist of
anurans (frogs and toads), the Caudata (newts and salamanders), and caecilians
(wormlike aquatic amphibians, much less known than their cousins).

Other exotic pets, like hedgehogs and sugar gliders, are not herps and are
not within the subjects covered by rec.pets.herp.  However, the charter of
the group explicitly embraces discussions on some vivarium-dwelling creatures
that are not strictly herps (see question 4.4, below), as well as the care
and breeding of feeder animals.

===============

4.4. What about tarantulas, scorpions, and so on?

Spiders, scorpions, and similar terrestrial invertebrates are explicitly
included in the rec.pets.herp charter.  The most common topics in this realm
are tarantulas and scorpions, but other spiders and millipedes have been
discussed on occasion.

Once in a while, a small flame war erupts because someone posts a question
about a tarantula, and someone else feels constrained to shout "Tarantulas
aren't herps!"  The shouters in this scenario are referred to the charter.

===============

4.5. What kind of questions are/aren't appropriate here?

Most questions that seem appropriate are---i.e., pretty much any question
about keeping herps is OK.  Certain technical questions may be better directed
to sci.bio.herp, or crossposted (if you crosspost, please set followups to
whichever group is more appropriate).

Posted images are *never* appropriate in rec.pets.herp, or, in general, in
any non-binary newsgroup.  If you want to post a picture of a herp---your
favorite tree frog, a great snapshot from the field, or whatever---that's
fine; but post the image to alt.binaries.pictures.animals or (as a second
choice) alt.binaries.pictures.misc, and put a brief post in rec.pets.herp
indicating that you've posted the image.

The consensus is that commercial postings are acceptable, as long as they are
not invasive (multiple posts with screaming subject lines are Not OK) and on-
topic (no phone sex ads).  There is a well-established tradition of individuals
offering animals for sale through the newsgroup, and at least one commercial
herp supply dealer posts regularly.  However, large stocklists and other
lengthy bodies of commercial information should be deposited on a WWW page
or made available for FTP, with only a pointer posted to the group.  If you
run a newsletter or organization that you think herpers should be made aware
of on a regular basis, a brief monthly posting is much more appropriate than
a daily or even weekly one.

===============

4.6  What does CB stand for?

Either "captive-bred" or "captive-born"; the former meaning is probably more
common.

The issue is this: Herps offered for sale may have been collected from the
wild, or they may have been hatched/born in captivity.  (There are very strong
reasons to prefer to purchase the latter kind, but that's not the subject of
this question.)  An animal that was conceived and born in captivity is said
to be captive-*bred*.  If, however, a female herp is imported from the wild
and lays eggs shortly thereafter (having done her actual breeding before being
captured), the offspring are captive-*born*.

Animals that are "merely" captive-born are, in a sense, taken from the wild
population (though most of them probably would not have survived to adulthood
in the wild), but they enjoy most of the same health benefits that accrue to
captive-bred individuals.

When breeders offer "CB" animals for sale, they *usually* mean captive-bred.
This is by no means certain, however, especially with certain species that are
rarely bred in captivity.  If you're buying a CB animal from a breeder, and
you have strong feelings against buying a captive-born animal, go ahead and
ask.  Note that pet stores, especially corporate chain stores, sometimes have
no idea of their animals' origins, and once in a while they will just make up
an answer if you ask!  (I figured this out when a guy told me that a Surinam
toad---a South American species---had been imported from Africa...)

===============

4.7  What does <some term> mean?

The following are some terms that have been known to confuse people.  This
list is by no means complete or comprehensive.

Amelanistic: "Albino" in the conventional sense; lacking all black pigment.
This is a widespread mutation in several species.  Amelanistic animals are
often red or yellowish, instead of white like albino mammals; this is because
amelanism does not affect the red and yellow pigments, or indeed any pigments
other than melanin.

Anerythristic: "Black albino"; lacking red pigment.  Anerythristic animals
are typically black and white.  This is a common mutation in corn snakes, and
has also emerged in several other snake species.

Anuran: A frog or toad.  (There is no tightly defined distinction, though
members of the genus _Rana_ are sometimes called "true frogs" and members
of the genus _Bufo_ "true toads".)

Axanthic: Lacking yellow pigment.  Axanthism produces a "black albino"
effect in certain species whose dominant pigments are yellow.

Boid: (two syllables) A boa or python.  Puns in the "da boids is on da wing"
genre are discouraged.

Brumation: The right technical term for what some reptiles do instead of
hibernating.

Caecilian: A member of an order of elongated, eellike or wormlike amphibians.
The most familiar is the "rubber eel", sometimes sold in aquarium stores.

Caudata: The order of amphibians comprising salamanders and newts.

Colubrid: A member of the "typical snake" family: king snakes, rat snakes,
corn snakes, garter snakes, and in general most of the snakes that readers
outside Australia encounter frequently.

Elapid: A member of a large family of venomous snakes with fangs set in the
rear of their mouths, including cobras, coral snakes, a majority of Australian
snakes, and many more.

Gravid: The right word to use instead of "pregnant" when you're talking about
eggs.  Note that all reptiles reproduce via eggs; if they give live birth,
it's because the eggs hatch internally.  In consequence, there is no such
thing as a pregnant reptile; the word is always "gravid".

Herp/Herptile: Generic terms for reptiles and amphibians; see question 4.3.
The word "herptile" is a fairly recent coinage, and some people object to it
(the phrase "linguistic abomination" has been used).

Heterozygous: A proper definition of this term requires a quick primer in
genetics, which is definitely beyond the scope of this FAQ.  Briefly, saying
that an animal is "heterozygous for amelanism" means that it carries the
gene that causes amelanism, and can pass that gene on to its offspring, but
it is not itself amelanistic (having inherited a "normal" gene that suppresses
the amelanistic gene).

Ranid: One of the "true frogs" of the genus _Rana_.  The genus includes
the majority of the hoppy, bank-dwelling animals that most of us think of as
typical frogs, but excludes tree frogs, toads, and many others.

Viperid: A member of the stereotypical family of venomous snakes, including
rattlesnakes and almost anything with "viper" in its name.  Viperids have
large fangs mounted in the front of the mouth and have a tendency to be
stocky snakes with a certain stereotypical head shape (however, it's not
safe, of course, to decide that a snake isn't venomous because "it doesn't
have a viper head").

==============================

Subject: 5. Other resources


5.1. What other online resources exist?

There are online resources scattered all over the net; herpers seem to like
making WWW pages.  This section is somewhat biased toward WWW resources, in
part because of the ease of searching the Web, in part because other routes
of access to these resources are pretty spotty.  Anyone with knowledge of
FTP sites is invited to contribute to this section of the FAQ!

In due course, there will probably be a rec.pets.herp home page, where most
of these resources will be gathered.  Watch this space for updates.

Liza Daly maintains the Herp Net Resources FAQ at
.http://fovea.retina.net/~gecko/herps/misc/net-resources.shtml

Rod Mitchell is taking on the heroic task of assembling all the rec.pets.herp
FAQs on his home page:
.http://www.ilstu.edu/~rbmitch/

Mike Pingleton maintains the FAQs on mites, African clawed frogs, and
crocodilians, and has them all at
.http://gto.mcsa.uiuc.edu/pingleto/faq.html

Harrison Page keeps care sheets for African bullfrogs ("pixie frog") and
veiled chameleons at
.http://www.spies.com/harrison/bullfrog.html
and.http://www.spies.com/harrison/chameleon.html
respectively.

All these sites, and many others, contain pointers to additional WWW pages.
It's possible to cruise around the Web, restricting your attention to herps,
and turn blue in the face before you run out of places to go.  A good central
nexus of pointers resides on Rebecca Sobol's pointer page at
.http://www.ofps.ucar.edu/~sobol/chs/chslinks.html

The Herpetology section of the Virtual Library resides at
.http://xtal200.harvard.edu:8000/herp/
and contains a wide variety of links, most of them of a more scientific bent
than the typical hobbyist's page.

===============

5.2. What are some good offline resources?

This is a big question.  There are quite a few books about herps of various
sorts, and they range from stellar to awful.  One particularly stellar book
is _The Completely Illustrated Atlas of Reptiles and Amphibians for the
Terrarium_, by Obst, Richter, Jacob, et al. (TFH Publications Inc., 1988), a
titanic red tome with brief entries on a huge variety of subjects, often just
called "the Big Red Book".  Also, Advanced Vivarium Systems publishes a series
of books on herp care which are widely acknowledged to be thoroughly
excellent; most of them are slim white paperbacks that cost five to ten
dollars (US).

There are several periodicals devoted to herpetoculture (and many academic
journals dealing with herpetology); these include the _Vivarium_ (the organ
of the American Federation of Herpetoculturists), _Reptiles_, and _Reptile &
Amphibian_.  There has been an outstanding publication called _Captive
Breeding_, but there are rumors of its demise.  This FAQ takes no position
on the relative merits of these publications; all of them have printed good
stuff and bad stuff, and it's a good idea to seek independent confirmation
of any information before entrusting the well-being of your animals to it.

Local herp societies are valuable sources of knowledgeable people; see
question 5.3, below.  There are also some national herp societies, like
the American Federation of Herpetoculturists in the United States, and a
number of global organizations with more specific purposes (like the
International Gecko Society and the Tortoise Trust).

Your local university library can also be very useful.  There's a publication
called the _Zoological Record_ that indexes zoological journals by species;
many of the articles it references will be unreadable by a lay audience, but
others can be a very useful source of captive-care information.  In addition,
university libraries can order copies of articles in hard-to-find periodicals
for you; ask a reference librarian for sordid details.

===============

5.3. How do I find a nearby herp society?

The Herp Net Resources FAQ (see question 5.1) contains a list of herp
societies with WWW pages, and the pages of FAQs mentioned in question 5.1
include lists of herp societies.  In addition, the omnipresent WWW page of
Liza Daly contains Peter Donohue's herp organization FAQ:
.http://fovea.retina.net/~gecko/herps/misc/org-faq.html

Not satisfied?  Melissa Kaplan (MelissK@aol.com) maintains lists of U.S. herp
organizations by state, and will cheerfully send copies to people who ask for
them.  She also has a document on how to start your own herp society.

If these sources don't list a society near you, start asking around.  If
there's a local university, ask someone in the biology or environmental
science department.  Ask the zoo, aquarium, or museum.  If there's a local
pet store that pays a lot of attention to reptiles, ask there.  If all this
fails, you might have to start a society of your own.  Or you could move!

===============

5.4. Where do I get information about iguanas?

In one form or another, this is probably the most asked question on the
newsgroup.  There are at least three iguana care sheets readily available
on the Web, and plenty of peripheral documents.  A good central resource
for iguana information is Liza Daly's iguana page:
.http://fovea.retina.net/~gecko/herps/iguanas/index.shtml
which includes pointers to lots of documents.

This page also includes some information on the iguana mailing list.  To
subscribe, send a message to iguanas-request@echonyc.com with the words
"subscribe iguanas" in the body of the message.

It really is worth your while to read these care sheets before posting an
iguana-related question.  There are a *lot* of pet iguanas out in the world,
and the chances that your question has already been asked and answered are
pretty good.

There are many books on iguanas; most of them aren't very good, and iguana
keepers on the net say that none of them are really good enough to recommend.
As of early 1996, there are more books in the works that show some promise;
however, the online care sheets remain the iguana keeper's strongest resource
for the present.

===============

5.5. Is there a care sheet for <whatever species>?

The lists of online resources in question 5.1, above, contain many pointers
to care sheets for specific species.  If you can't find it from the above
sources, ask; odds are that someone can give you at least basic care
information.

===============

5.6  What zoos have good herp collections?

Perhaps surprisingly, lots of them.  In the United States, leaders include
the National Zoological Garden in Washington, D.C., the San Diego Zoo,
Steinhart Aquarium in San Francisco, the Denver Zoo's Tropical Discovery
exhibit, Zoo Atlanta, and many more (contributions solicited).  The Baltimore
Zoo gets extra brownie points for having many snakes in the children's zoo.

A number of zoos in Europe have outstanding herp collections, often equipped
with great naturalistic settings; the Rotterdam Zoo is a world leader, and
the author wishes to take this opportunity to plug the zoo in Frankfurt as
well.

The St. Louis Zoo has tuataras; however, indications at this writing are that
they aren't on public exhibit.  Herp societies, people in the zoo business,
and other folks with organizational clout might be able to see them.  Wow!

More information for this question is eagerly solicited.

==============================

Subject: 6. Actual critter questions


6.1. Where can I get a <whatever species>?

If you don't know where to get it, and you haven't been keeping herps long
enough to find a source, are you sure you want one?  Hard-to-find species
are often hard to find precisely because they're very difficult to keep, and
should only be essayed by very experienced keepers.

Assuming you really do want whatever-it-is, there are a number of large
commercial dealers who are good places to look.  A good starting point is
the breeder/mail-order FAQ, available on Liza Daly's WWW page, at the URL
.http://fovea.retina.net/~gecko/herps/misc/breeder-faq.html.

Many large herp dealers and prominent breeders advertise in the pages of
herp magazines like the ones listed in question 5.2.  Local herp societies
are also a good source of pointers, since many of them have members who
attend conventions regularly and stay abreast of others' breeding projects.

For the record, this FAQ *strongly* discourages the keeping of venomous
reptiles by any amateurs but the most expert and cautious.  Many venomous
snakes are extremely attractive and have a powerful appeal; however, the
dangers of keeping "hot" animals are very substantial, to say nothing of
the public-relations disaster and potential tragedy that could result from
an escaped animal.  (And there is *always* a chance of escape; what if there
were an earthquake and all your tanks were shattered?)  The prudent route is
to leave the venomous critters to the wild and the zoo, and go there when you
feel the urge to admire them.

===============

6.2. How do I identify this creature in my yard?  Can I keep it?

It's hard to describe an animal accurately enough for a positive ID in text.
Try a field guide first, since you can look back and forth from the book to
the animal.  (This author, based in North America, favors the Audubon guide;
others prefer the Peterson guides for their range maps and similar-species
sections.  Field guides for Britain and Europe are known to exist, but I
don't know enough about them to make recommendations.)  If you can't make
a conclusive ID, then post a detailed description of the animal, along with
any useful information you gathered from the guide ("I thought it might be
a Flipplezorb's tree frog, but it doesn't have a puce belly").  Someone will
probably post either a tentative ID or a request for specific information.

Most of the time, it's not a good idea to keep animals you find in the wild,
and you should just release the critter where you found it; ultimately, all
concerned will probably be happier if you satisfy your herp desires with a
captive-bred animal.  However, most of us caught garter snakes as kids and
kept them, and are in no position to take a holier-than-thou position against
keeping such animals.  If you want to keep something that crawled out from
under your azaleas, make sure you've identified it correctly, and *then* post
asking for care guidelines.  A single posting saying "I don't know what this
is, but how do I take care of it?" will not get many useful responses.

===============

6.3. My <whatever species> got away.  How can I find it?

Guess which WWW page to look at?
.http://fovea.retina.net/~gecko/herps/misc/lost.html
contains the Finding Lost Herps FAQ.  It is a collection of comments from
various individuals; no guarantees are made that these comments will be
consistent with one another.

Fortunately, most escapes can be stopped before they happen with some
attention to the enclosure of the animal in question.  Use common sense:
Don't leave snake-sized openings in the lid of your snake's tank.  Don't
leave the lid off while you wander away to get a food item (for the herp or
yourself).  Don't take small, quick-moving animals out to play on the lawn.
As a general rule, assume that your herp can levitate, walk through walls,
cloud your mind so that you cannot see it, pass through the holes in fine
cheesecloth, and gravitate unerringly to the most inaccessible spot in your
home, and design enclosures and herp rooms accordingly.

===============

6.4. Is there something wrong with using mealworms as food?

Yes and no.  Many people use mealworms as feeders with no ill effects at all,
especially with lizards.  However, mealworms have hard chitinous shells and
may cause digestive problems in large quantities.  Moreover, mealworms have
mandibles; at least one poster reports having seen mealworms literally eat
their way out of a garter snake (yuck), and this author has lost leopard
frogs to internal injuries caused by "king" mealworms.

The chitin problem can be almost entirely ameliorated by feeding mealworms
that have just shed their exoskeleta.  Since they shed their mandibles as
well, this procedure should also help with the problem of internal injuries;
however, if you're feeding mealworms to an animal that can reasonably be
expected to swallow them whole, it is prudent to cut the worms' mouthparts
off first, or to crush their heads and mandibles with a pair of forceps.
It's not pleasant, but it beats risking your herp's health.

===============

6.5. I can't keep my <whatever species>.  What do I do?  Let it go?

No!  Never release a captive animal back into the wild, especially if it's
a species that's not native to your area.  The animal will either die, in
which case you didn't do it any favors, or it won't, in which case you have
just introduced an exotic species into your local ecosystem.  This Is Bad;
the most drastic example among herps is the giant toad (_Bufo marinus_),
which created ecological chaos when it was introduced into Australia for
pest control (and it didn't even work for that).  Even if your herp is a
native species, it may be carrying pathogens that shouldn't be released into
the wild, and if it was captive-bred, its genetics may have drifted enough
that you're introducing destructive genetic material into the wild population.
The problem of pathogens is not just theoretical; some wild populations of
herps have nearly been destroyed by well-meant releases of captive animals.

If you have a native herp that was caught in the wild, and you know exactly
where it was caught, and you're sure it hasn't been exposed to any
pathogens while in your care, and it hasn't been in captivity too long, you
*might* think about releasing it.  Even then, it probably isn't a good idea.

If you really can't keep a herp (or other pet), try to find it a good home.
If nobody wants to take it, a local herp society might be willing to put it
up for adoption among its members.  Zoos generally will not accept donations
of this sort (they have enough Burmese pythons already), but if you have
something really unusual, it couldn't hurt to call the zoo and ask if they
want one.  Or you can sell the animal to a pet store, though it behooves
you to find a good, responsible store that keeps its animals in decent
conditions.  Just don't let it go.

===============

6.6  I just bought a <whatever species>.  How do I take care of it?

Everyone would much rather see this question in the form "I'm going to buy
a <whatever>...", but it doesn't always happen that way.

Some species of herps are quite difficult to keep and suited only for people
who really want a time sink, or who have lots of experience, or who have a
ready source of some exotic food item; unfortunately, your average pet store
doesn't know which species these are, and so, every so often, a new herper
asks something like "I just bought a Nile crocodile.  The pet store said it
would be pretty easy to take care of, but how do I do it?"

Regrettably, in the case of a Nile crocodile, the only realistic answer is
to find someone who *really* knows about working with large crocodilians, and
hope they want to take it off your hands.  While this example is a *little*
exaggerated, it's quite common for unsuspecting people to end up in over their
heads with a difficult species, and the herp almost invariably suffers for it.
For this reason, it's vitally important to learn about the needs of an
animal *before* you go out and buy one!

But let's suppose you already have your Nile crocodile, you really like it
and are determined to do whatever it takes to keep it happy and healthy, and
you think you might have the resources to do it.  In this case, go ahead and
post; you may take some heat, but the best response is probably "Yeah, I
realize I should have researched it first.  I'll do better next time, but now
I want to learn how to handle the situation I've got."  People will respect
that.

===============

6.7  Is it OK to order herps through the mail?  Over the net?

Sure; in fact, it's widely done, mostly because mail-order dealers sell
animals much more cheaply than pet stores (there are fewer middlemen).  There
are some caveats about mail-order, though, as you might expect.  You can't
see the animal before you buy it (though you may be able to get snapshots,
especially of unusual or expensive animals); you have to trust the business
to be honest; and you face the risks of shipping (though a reputable dealer
should at least guarantee live arrival).

For these reasons, it's a good idea to stick to mail-order dealers about
which you know something.  Glades Herp is probably the best-known operation
of this nature, but they, like most of their compatriots, have been the
subject of some strongly worded complaints on the net.  Because no business
seems to be able to satisfy everybody, this FAQ takes no position on the
recommendation of specific mail-order houses.

Note that, while many herps can be mailed, US law prohibits sending snakes
by any means except air freight.  The cost of air freight is rather high,
more than enough to offset the price savings on a small order; therefore,
it's fairly common for several people to combine small orders.

As always, exercise caution when buying anything over the net.  On occasion,
people have been ripped off purchasing herps from net folks; in particular,
there was a recent fiasco in which someone offered animals for sale at a
very low price, then sent random unpleasant objects (rotting vegetables,
etc.) instead of the herps people ordered.  It is a very good idea to check
out the reputation of anyone you're considering buying from...*before* you
trust them with your money.

===============

6.8  What's a good first snake/lizard/frog/turtle?

Any answer to this question is necessarily colored by opinion.  This question
attempts to list species that will be generally suitable for beginners with
no prior herpetological experience.  It also focuses on species of which
captive-bred specimens are readily available in North America.  (Information
on the availability of these species in other parts of the world, and
suggestions for suitable species where the ones below are hard to obtain,
would be welcome.)

See the following question for some generalities to keep in mind when
purchasing a first herp.

Good first snakes include corn snakes, common king snakes (of which there
are many subspecies: California, desert, Florida, speckled...), and captive-
bred or captive-born baby ball pythons.  Imported adult ball pythons are a
poor choice, because they tend to be heavily parasitized and unwilling to
feed.  Many people's first snake is a garter snake collected from the back
yard, but garter snakes are actually quite a bit harder to take care of than
the above-mentioned species.  Boa constrictors and Burmese pythons are popular
pet-store items and very attractive snakes, but they grow rather large---
especially the Burmese---and should only be attempted by people who really
are prepared to share their home with a *big* snake.

There are many good starter lizards whose care requirements are not extreme,
but that can still provide much enjoyment and interest.  The leopard gecko,
a desert-dwelling insectivorous species, is readily available captive-bred and
is easy to tame and maintain.  Captive-bred bearded dragons are more
expensive but equally easy to keep and handle, though it is recommended that
the beginner start with a juvenile rather than a hatchling.  Captive-bred
blue-tongue skinks are charming animals that can be easily set up in a
temperate enclosure with moderate supplemental heating.  There are also many
suitable starter lizards that, however, are bred less frequently in captivity;
these include collared lizards, desert iguanas, chuckwallas, ameivas (also
called dwarf tegus), savannah monitors, and anoles.

Any frog is more delicate than the "starter" reptiles listed above.  This
doesn't mean they're off-limits to beginners, though.  Popular first species
include White's tree frogs (sometimes called dumpy tree frogs) and "Pac-Man"
frogs (properly called horned frogs; there are several species).  There are
good Advanced Vivarium Systems books on both, and plenty of keepers on the
net who will be helpful.  Those who are willing to work with an aquarium have
the opportunity to keep aquatic frogs; the dwarf frog and African clawed frog
are very easy to keep and are excellent first frogs, while the related
Surinam toad is slightly more delicate but is included here in a shameless
display of favoritism by the author.

A number of turtles can be maintained in captivity by beginners, if they are
willing to devote the time necessary to keep them appropriately. Aquatic
turtles will require a large tank, basking areas, heat sources, filtration,
and frequent water changes. Hardy beginner turtles are sliders and cooters
(adopt a red-ear from your local herp society!), related species of sliders,
mud and musk turtles (including the African mud turtles), and some Asian water
turtles such as Reeves' turtles (_Chinemys reevesii_). Land turtles require a
large amount of land, heated quarters, hiding areas, and an appropriate
diet. Good beginning turtles/tortoises are red-footed tortoises, leopard
tortoises, African spurred tortoises (which, however, grow rather large),
and captive-born box turtles. If at all possible, buy a captive-born turtle;
they generally do much better in captivity than wild-caught individuals, and
this may make the difference between success and a dead turtle.

David Kirkpatrick wrote an article for _Reptiles_ magazine on starting out
with aquatic and semi-aquatic turtles; it's available on the WWW at
http://www.unc.edu/~dtkirkpa/stuff/tanks.html.

===============

6.9  My kid wants a reptile; what should we get?

There are some things to consider before buying any herp.  Remember, first,
that buying the animal itself is likely to be the *cheapest* part of the
process; that $20 iguana will cost closer to $250 when equipped with housing
a substrate, furnishings, lighting, heating, food, and initial veterinary
care.  Second, many herps are sold as juveniles and will be many times larger
at adulthood than at purchase; consider whether you are prepared to provide
suitable enclosures as the animal grows, and just where you're going to put
those enclosures.  Third, many lizards, and all frogs and snakes, are
carnivores; to keep one, you will need to provide other animals as food
items, possibly killing them yourself (always feed killed prey if at all
possible).  Fourth, even vegetarian herps have specialized needs; lettuce
is *not* a suitable diet for an iguana or other vegetarian lizard, and you
are likely to have some strange conversations about turnip greens with your
produce manager.

When a herp (or other pet) is being entrusted to a child, there's also the
issue of responsibility.  Many herps require relatively little care to do
well, but this ease of maintenance actually makes neglect easier; after not
feeding the frogs for three or four days, it's easy to forget for another
week or two.  In addition, certain large or flashy herps have a surface
appeal that may draw people (and especially young people) for the wrong
reasons: "If I had a *really* *big* snake, I could scare the heck outta my
friends!"

Let's assume that the kid is responsible enough to take care of a pet, and
that its reasons for wanting a reptile are good reasons.  In this case, the
species described in the answer to question 6.8 are good places to start
looking.  The large snakes, however, are particularly contraindicated in
households with small children; incidents in which a snake injures a human
are *extremely* rare, but the effect on the public image of herpkeeping and
the potential for tragedy are great enough that it's better to play it safe.

Many, probably most, herpers started as children, and strongly encourage the
fostering of a child's interest in herps and other animals.  This answer is
not intended to discourage children from keeping herps, but to suggest the
most responsible and rewarding routes to that end.
-- 
     Nathan Tenny                    On the other hand, you seem to glory
     Qualcomm, Inc., San Diego, CA   in your own ignorance, so I suppose
     ntenny@qualcomm.com             we're not so different.
     homepage in limbo                     -Bob Novick, CyberPulse Research
