Subject: rec.models.railroad FAQ-TINPLATE, Part 2 of 4
Date: 9 Jan 1996 21:54:57 GMT
Summary: This FAQ contains information on the collecting, operating and repair of Collectable or Tinplate model trains.
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rec.models.railroad
TINPLATE TRAIN FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Part 2 of 4, Equipment
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This is a listing of frequently asked questions and general information
concerning the collection, operation and repair of collectable model
railroad equipment. For more info on this FAQ see part 1. Additions and
corrections are always welcome. E-mail to:

colemanc@infinet.com
(Christopher D. Coleman)
TCA #88-26999
LRRC #0032070

This FAQ contains the following topics:

Part 1, Information

   * WHAT'S NEW IN THE FAQ?
   * COLLECTABLE/TINPLATE TRAINS
   * GRADING STANDARDS AND OTHER JARGON
   * MANUFACTURERS
   * THOMAS THE TANK ENGINE
   * RAILSCOPE
   * LOCOMOTIVE TYPES

Part 2, Equipment

   * CARS
   * TRANSFORMERS
   * TRACK
   * SWITCHES

Part 3, Maintenance

   * TOOLS
   * MAINTENANCE TIPS
   * MODIFICATIONS
   * PARTS SUPPLIERS
   * MOTOR DESIGN

Part 4, The Hobby

   * LAYOUTS
   * OPERATING TRAINS
   * DISPLAYING TRAINS
   * COLLECTING TRAINS
   * INVENTORYING
   * MEETS
   * GROUPS
   * OTHER SOURCES

CARS

How are coupling and uncoupling done?

     Coupler designs and methods can be considered an entire field of study
     on its own. The earliest systems used variations on the simple loop
     and hook system. The problem was that the cars had to be lifted off
     the track to be coupled. Following this most companies turned to
     complex and sometimes unreliable latch coupler. This usually involved
     a barbed latch and receptacle for a latch on each coupler. The cars
     could be separated by disengaging both latches at once, which usually
     proved difficult. After WWII major makers switched to the prototypical
     knuckle coupler. The prototype uses a pin above the coupler head to
     lock into the rear of the knuckle inside the coupler head when
     lowered.

                      #
                       #                   knuckle pin
                **  #   O        **  ####O   knuckle
                ** ### **        **     **
                *********        *********  coupler head
                  **O**            **O**   locking pin
                   ***              ***   drawbar
                   ***              ***
                  OPEN             CLOSED

     The Lionel version, introduced in 1945, used a spring loaded plunger
     in the knuckle head locking the rear of the knuckle. The plunger is
     surrounded by a solenoid powered by a sliding shoe contact. The
     sliding shoe contacts with a fourth rail in special track sections,
     which when powered will energize the solenoid and the plunger releases
     the knuckle. In the mid 1950's a revised knuckled which used a spring
     loaded pin beneath the coupler head to work the same way as the
     prototype, except inverted. This design, with a few changes, is still
     used. Flyer's, introduced in the early 50's, uses a bar inside the
     head to lock the knuckle from the above, like the prototype, but the
     bar extends below the head to a weight. When the weight is lifted the
     knuckle is released. A special track section with a coil powered
     lifting runner was used to lift the weight.

How do Lionel UCS track sections work?

     The UCS (universal control section) and its predecessor the RCS
     (remote control section) and their O-27 cousins are simply
     constructed, but operationally difficult to understand. The different
     rails and the electromagnet operate in different ways for different
     functions. As shown below, the section controllers use strips of
     copper contacted in certain ways such that the desired circuit is
     made. Either the three *s are connected or the two #s and the two @s.
     The controller uses four wires. Two are connected to the rails as
     supply and ground and the other two lead to the control rails and
     electromagnet. Therefore only the two control wires need be strung to
     your track while the others may be connected directly to the
     transformer.

     Uncoupling requires either the use of an electromagnet on a plunger
     activated version or the energizing of a knuckle electromagnet
     connected to ground and to a sliding shoe. The uncouple button
     connects both control rails and the track electromagnet to the power
     rail. This has the result of uncoupling all types of couplers, if
     properly positioned.

     Earlier operating cars are supplied both ground and power leads
     through a pair of sliding shoes, one in each truck. When the Unload
     button is pressed, one rail is connected to ground and the other to
     the power rail, thus powering the car. Later cars used a large spring
     loaded plunger in the center of the car to supply the action, which
     must be manually reset after operation. The Uncouple electromagnet
     must be used for these.

                                  UNCOUPLE             UNLOAD
          RCS
          near rail                supply              ground
          far rail                 supply              supply

          UCS
          left rails               supply              ground
          right rails              supply              supply
          electromagnet              on                  off

          6019 (O-27)
          left front rail          supply              ground
          right rear rail          supply              ground
          electromagnet              on                  off

          OTHER O-27 SECTIONS
          electromagnet              on                  off

                     UNCOUPLE    UNLOAD

                  ______O___________O______
                 |  *-----------+-------@  |
                 |  *----------+|-------@  |
                 |  *---------+||-------#  |   front view
                 |  ---------+|||-------#  |
                 |___________||||__________|
                             ||||
                             ||||____4
                             |||_____3
                             ||______2
                             |_______1

                       RCS CONTROLLER

                                 top views

            ================================================== ground rail
              -------------------------+--------------------   outer control rail
            ===========================|==+=================== power rail
              ----------------------+--|--|-----------------   inner control rail
            =====================+==|==|==|=================== ground rail
                               \ O  O  O  O /                  screw terminals
                                 |  |  |  |___4
                                 |  |  |______3
                                 |  |_________2
                                 |____________1

                               RCS TRACK SECTION

               =============================================== ground rail
          left   ----------------+  /~~~\   -+--------------   right control rail
               ==================| (  O  ),+=|================ power rail
          left   ----------------+\ \/__//  /+--------------   left control rail
               =================+==\/===/==/================== ground rail
                               \ O  O  O  O /                  screw terminals
                                 |  |  |  |___4
                                 |  |  |______3
                                 |  |_________2
                                 |____________1

                                UCS TRACK SECTION

               =============================================== ground rail
                                 __--~~~--__  +-------------   right rear control
               ==================     O     =/=+============== power rail
                 --------------+ ~~--/__--~~/  |               left front control
               ===============+=\===/======/===|============== ground rail
                              |  \ /      |    |
                              |   |       |    |__4
                              |   |       |_______3
                              |   |_______________2
                              |___________________1

                               6019 TRACK SECTION

               =============================================== ground rail
                                 __--~~~--__
               ==================     O     ==+=============== power rail
                                 ~~--/__--~~  |
               =====================/=========|=============== ground rail
                                   /          |
                                  |           |____4
                                  |________________3

                              OTHER O-27 SECTIONS

TRANSFORMERS

What can I get in the way of power for my trains?

     A basic review of higher wattage available power:

     Lionel Transformers

          MultiVolt (no circuit breaker)

        o A: 40W 60Hz 1921-33
        o L: 50W 60Hz 1934-38
        o N: 50W 60Hz 1942
        o A: 60W 60Hz 1934
        o B: 75W 60Hz 1918-38
        o T: 100W 60Hz 1923-38
        o T: 110W 60Hz 1922
        o T: 150W 60Hz 1918-21
        o K: 150W 60Hz 1922-38
        o K: 200W 60Hz 1918-21

        o F: 40W 25-40Hz 1931-37
        o C: 75W 25-40Hz 1922-37
        o H: 75W 25Hz 1938-39

        o J: ?? 40-133Hz ??

          TrainMaster (circuit breaker)

        o 1034:75W 60Hz 1948-54
        o 1044:75W 60Hz 1957-69
        o W: 75W 60Hz 1939-42
        o Q: 75W 60Hz 1939-46 single control
        o A: 90W 60Hz 1947-48
        o R: 100W 60Hz 1939-47 two controls
        o RX: 100W 25Hz one control
        o V: 150W 60Hz 1939-47 four controls, fixed voltage terminals
        o Z: 250W 60Hz 1939-47 four controls

          MultiControl (Circuit breaker, Whistle and Direction) (may also
          say TrainMaster)

        o 1032: 75W 60Hz 1948
        o 1032M: 75W 50Hz
        o 1232: 75W 50-60Hz
        o S: 80W 60Hz 1947
        o 1033: 90W 60Hz 1948-56 single control with fixed voltage
        o 1044: 90W 60Hz 1957-69 single control with fixed voltage
        o 6-4090 90W 60Hz 1970-84 identical to 1044
        o RW,RWM:110W 60Hz 1948-59 single control with fixed voltage
        o LW: 125W 60Hz 1955-56 single control with fixed voltage, replaced
          RW
        o SW: 130W 60Hz 1961-66 dual control, single whistle,
        o TW: 175W 60Hz 1953-60 single control
        o KW: 190W 60Hz 1950-65 dual control with fixed voltages,
          troublesome circuit breaker
        o VW: 150W 60Hz 1948-49 looks like ZW
        o ZW: 250W 60Hz 1950-66
        o ZW: 275W 60Hz 1948-49 four variable controls, two with direction
          and whistle,

          Solid State (circuit breaker, whistle/horn, direction, power
          switch)

        o 6-4690 see MW
        o MW: ??? 60Hz 1986-89 dual control
        o 6-12780 see RS-1
        o RS-1: 50W 60Hz 1990-93 dual control, railsounds, replaced MW
        o TrainMaster System: see below description

     AMERICAN FLYER POSTWAR

        o 4B/22034: 100/110W, single control, circuit breaker
        o 8B: 100W, single control, manual circuit breaker
        o 9B: 150W, dual control, manual circuit breaker
        o 12B: 250W, dual control, manual circuit breaker, power switch
        o 14: 150W DC, single control
        o 15B/22040: 110W, single control, circuit breaker
        o 16: 150W DC, single control
        o 16B/22050: 175W,: single control, circuit breaker, power switch
        o 17B: 190W, single control, circuit breaker, V and A meters
        o 18B/22060: 175/190W, dual control, circuit breaker, power switch
        o 19B/22070: 300W, single control, V and A meters, power switch
        o 30B/22080: 300W, dual control, dual V meters, dual circuit
          breakers, power switch
        o 22090: 350W, dual control, dual V meters, dual circuit breakers

     OTHER MAKERS

        o MRC Trainpower O-27: single control, direction and whistle, power
          switch, solid state
        o MRC Dualpower O-27: 80VA, dual control, dual direction and
          whistle, power switch, solid state
        o ROW Power Supply: 400VA, dual control, bell/whistle, dual V and A
          meters, power switch
     No particular problems have been experienced with these transformers
     unless so noted above.

     Lionel transformers made after 1939 are designated "Trainmaster" and
     have circuit breakers. Previous to this they were called "Multivolt"
     and had no circuit breaker. Because of this caution should be used
     with Multivolt transformers.

Does it matter that I use only Lionel transformers on Lionel trains?

     Essentially all trains using universal motors will run on all
     transformers. They will also run on DC, but the normal current draw is
     beyond what most DC transformers will produce. Trains using DC can
     motors will run on AC only if they are equipped with a rectifier to
     convert AC to DC. The newer offerings do but some cheap Lionel from
     the 1970's does not. Compatibility between brands is not a problem.

What's the difference between WATTs and VAs?

     VA is short for VoltAmp, or the total power lost in a circuit. In a
     nutshell, WATTs tell how much power is lost to heat (resistance) VARs
     (doesn't stand for anything) tell how much is lost to stray magnetic
     and electric fields (inductance and capacitance). VAs are defined as:

                      _______________
                     /     2       2
             (VA) =\/ (WATT) + (VAR)

     or the RMS (root mean square) value of power. Thus, since VAs express
     more forms of power consumption (both thermal and magnetic), the power
     value expressed in them is slightly higher than in WATTs, but is a
     better measure of power consumed.

Can broken transformers be fixed?

     As to repairing your transformer, if the wiper or a connecting wire is
     damaged I would try to repair it, but if the main coil is burned out
     it is not really worth the trouble, at least on smaller transformers.
     (there are places to have transformers and motors rewound) In my
     experience a simple dial-on-a-box Lionel transformer will run $15 to
     $30, and a nicer one with whistle and direction controls $40 to $60.
     The dollar a Watt, or VA, usually holds true for 1950 or newer. This
     depends greatly on who's selling it and how much money they want to
     make on it.

Can more than one transformer be used together? (AC)

     Connecting Transformers in series is bad news. Don't try it. For
     transformers to share a common ground is no problem, as long as their
     other poles don't touch. Now, it is often necessary to connect the
     poles of two transformers if the load is too great for a single
     transformer or when a roller crosses the boundary between insulated
     track blocks powered by different transformers. To do this the two
     transformers must be placed in phase. To test the phasing connect the
     two commons together and connect a wire to one control terminal.
     Adjust the two to the same voltage level, say 6V. Momentarily touch
     the wire to the other transformer's control terminal. If a spark
     occurs they are out of phase so you must reverse the wall plug of one.
     If there is no spark they are in phase.

Why did they stop making powerful transformers?

     Initially it was due to lack of demand during the 1960's when just
     selling trains was a challenge. In 1973 the Consumer Products Safety
     Commission cracked down on General Mills on transformer design. They
     felt for some reason that the ZWs and others were "Electrocution
     hazards waiting to happen". They came up with lots of new rules and
     regulations making the manufacture of these transformers near to
     impossible and financially unrealizable. To add to this Underwriters
     Laboratory, which approves products as "safe" for insurance purposes,
     recently would not approve a redesigned ZW II transformer from LTI.
     Apparently heat dissipation problems occurred with the large coil. As
     a replacement Lionel developed the "Trainmaster" system profiled later
     in this section. Neil Young, the popular singer and Lionel collector,
     has been contributing greatly to this project.

What's the deal with those new Lionel units?

     The "Trainmaster" system is made up of several separate units each
     inside their own plastic housing. PowerHouse (PH-1) is the 135 Watt
     step down transformer. It has one cord to the wall outlet and one to a
     1/4" miniplug (headphone type). It includes a power switch and a
     manual reset circuit breaker. It can be replaced with most any
     standard AC transformer with a ciruit breaker (set at 7-9 amps) and a
     21 volt or more max output. An available adapter cord with a 7 amp
     in-line fuse can connect it to PM-1.

     PowerMaster (PM-1) is the track voltage level control unit. It has a
     female jack to connect with PH-1 and two lugs for track connection
     wires. PM-1 has no controlls of its own but is controlled by radio
     frequency by the CAB-1 unit. One unit is needed for each insulated
     block of track you wish to control independently. Each PM-1 requires
     an independent power source, for example a KW can supply two.

     Command Base performes the same function as PM-1, except does it by
     transmitting encoded digital commands down the rails to specially
     equipped locomotives and to SC-1 units (described later). It also
     recieves RF signals from CAB-1, but sends only signals down a track
     whose power is controlled by another means (a PM-1 or conventional
     transformer). Unlike PM-1, only one Command Base is required for and
     entire layout. Command Base requires it's own power supply which is
     provided.

     Switch and Accessory Controller (SC-1) is controlled by the digital
     commands relayed by Command Base. SC-1 has switch control lugs on it
     for the control of four switches and two on-off for accessories.

     CAB-1 is the remote controller which contains all controls and sends
     signals to PM-1 and Command Base. It operates on radio frequencies
     similar to those of RC cars using a telescoping antennae. It requires
     a single 9 Volt battery and has a 1/4" jack in the top for connecting
     The Big Red Switch (detailed later). There are 26 controls on it. It
     contains a large red throttle knob, a numeric keypad, and buttons for
     direction, bell, whistle/horn, boost (accelerates while the button is
     pressed, then resumes previous speed), brake (overrides the available
     momentum setting), front coupler, rear coupler, aux 1 and aux 2. There
     is a small red button labeled "halt" which is an emergency stop for
     the whole system.

     There are buttons across the top labelled SW, ACC, RTE, TR, and ENG
     which set the mode to the transmitter. TR is pressed followed by 1
     through 9 or 0 for 10 on the keypad to designate which PM-1 (and thus
     which track block) is to be controlled. In this mode whistle/horn,
     bell, direction, boost and brake are options. ENG followed by number
     01 through 99 or 00 for 100 selects which digital reciever equipped
     locomotive you wish to control through the Command Base. all the TR
     commands plus front and rear coupler are available, except here they
     controll only a single engine no matter where it is, rather than any
     engine in a particular block). Similarly SW and 01 through 99 or 00
     for 100 selects a switch controller in an SC-1 and ACC and 01 through
     49 or 00 for 50 selects an accessory controller on a SC-1. Presumabley
     aux 1 (straignt or on) and aux 1 (diverging or off) control switches
     and accessories when in SW or ACC modes.

     So with a single CAB-1 you can control 10 track blocks (using 10
     PM-1's), 100 digital reciever equipped locomotives (using a single
     Command Base), 100 swithces and 50 accessories (using 25 SC-1's in
     conjunction with the same Command Base).

     A few details are still fuzzy, such as how to set which digital
     recieving locomotive, which PM-1 and which SC-1 corresponds to which
     number on CAB-1; the function of the RTE button; how to set the
     available momentum (simulates train weight by dragging out responses
     to commands) and stall (sets the minimum voltage to a particular unit
     to a level where the unit just stalls so the e-unit will not cycle and
     to make starts and stops smooth).

     Also available is "The Big Red Switch", a large, red pressure
     sensitive pad which plugs into the CAB-1 jack to operate whichever
     function was last executed on the CAB-1.

     The Idea of the system is to have a PH-1 and PM-1 pair connected to
     each block of track to control the voltage level for conventional
     locomotives. If all your locos are digial reciever equipped, a PM-1
     would not be required, but would still be a good idea. This way you
     can set locomotive 1 to, say, 70% throttle and leave it there if you
     have your straigtaway blocks set to 20 volts and your curved blocks
     set to 12 volts (kid of like setting speed limits). Although you only
     need one CAB-1, you can have more than one for division of
     responsibilities between engineers.

     A few quirks exist in the system. For one the RF frequency is the same
     as CB Channel 23, so you may experience rouge commands near main
     highways. Also compatability with other systems is nill. MTH
     whistles/horns blow continously when connected to any part of the
     system and QSI control units are totally confused by it. On thw whole
     it is an excelent system with a few bad spots.

TRACK

What is the difference between gauge and scale?

     Scale is the relation or ratio of sizes between a model and a
     prototype. For X:Y a dimension of X units on the model corresponds to
     Y units on the prototype. For example, if a real boxcar is 500" long
     and you want your model in 1:100 scale, then the model should be 100
     times smaller, 500"/100, or 5" long. Conversely if your model boy is
     1" tall and in 1:50 scale, then if he were real he would be 1"X50 or
     50" tall. Over the years many scales have been defined, but the
     primary ones collected are:

          II (two)       1:22.5
          Standard/Wide: none defined but would be about 1:27
          G [see below]  1:24
          I (one)        1:32 (1:29 for Aristo-Craft)
          O (oh or zero) 1:48 in North America
                         1:45 or 1:43.5 Europe
          S              1:64

     Gauge is the Distance between the inside faces of the outermost
     railheads. The prototype standard gauge in most of the world is
     4'8.5". Early scale ratios were derived by comparing the real gauge to
     the model gauge but GAUGE DOES NOT DEFINE SCALE NOR VICE VERSA.
     Popular scale definitions and gauge definitions are often slightly
     different from what would be derived. This is a result of history and
     is just the way it is in the hobby. Also one may wish to model a
     narrower prototype gauge which would require a smaller model gauge in
     the same scale. Defined gauges used in tinplate trains are shown
     below.

          Standard: 2-1/8"
          Wide:     2"
          G         45mm (1.77")
          O std     1-1/4"
          S std     7/8"

G gauge still confuses me!

     G gauge was originally defined by LGB as a GAUGE not a scale and being
     45mm. LGB created the name although it was used previously as I scale
     standard gauge and III scale narrow gauge. LGB models mostly European
     metric gauge (between American standard and narrow gauges) so should
     theoretically be called II scale. As time progressed other makers
     produced trains in the same gauge for compatibility of track, but of
     different gauge prototype. Standard gauge, American and European
     narrow gauge models have been produced for G track. As a result the
     scale ratio changes. models of standard gauge are I scale and of
     European narrow gauge are III scale. US 36" narrow gauge falls between
     established scales at about 1:24 and so is usually referred to as "G
     Scale" in the US although this is not always accepted. Standards for G
     are still being created and remain largely nonexistent right now.

     It is common practice in tinplate to refer to a scale, say O scale as
     O gauge. This is incorrect terminology but is the normal practice.
     When someone talks of O gauge in a tinplate context you can assume it
     is O scale modelled on prototype standard gauge. G is the exception
     whereas it is usually modelled on a narrow gauge.

What kinds of track systems are available?

     Different types of track systems in a given gauge are usually
     separated by their curve radius. This has be defined as the distance
     from rail to rail of a complete circle of curved sections. Which rail
     is not always the same, but is usually the outermost rail.

     O: The standard type of trackage. Usually with three black ties per
     section. 31" curve diameter is common but O-72 and O-54 with 72" (five
     ties) and 54" curve diameters are also readily available. Single
     straights normally are 10" long.

     O-27: A lighter duty trackage also usually with three ties per
     section. Usually 27" curve diameter with 42" and 54" (O-42, O-54
     light) available. Straight single sections are 8-3/4" long.

     Super O: Made by Lionel 1957 to 1966. Featured realistic molded
     plastic ties and plates. 36" curve diameter. Sections snap together.
     Hard to find today.

     Tru-Trak: Made by Lionel about 1976 and was similar to K-Line O. It
     was around 30" diameter and very little was produced.

     K-Line O: A semi-realistic plastic tied track included with some
     better K-Line sets.

     Gar-Graves: Realistic trackage that comes in 3' sections to be custom
     bent to layout specs. Wood ties and a center rail chemically blackened
     to be hidden. Tricky to bend without kinks. Available in stainless for
     outdoors. Available in O, S, and Standard.

     Sectional Gar-Graves: O Gauge available in 32" 42", 54"and 72"
     diameter, 8 sections per circle and , 80", 88", 96" and 106" diameter,
     12 sections per circle; plastic ties, blackened center rail or
     stainless stee
     S Gauge available in 42", 54", 63" and 72" diameter, 8 sections per
     circle.

     S American Flyer: Flyer was the only major postwar S producer.

     K-line S: includes Flyer type strights and curves as well as 3 foot
     straights and wide radius curves. Pins are slightly wider than Flyer
     and require some filing to mate properly

     American Models S: currently produces track switches.

     Antique Trains Standard: Essentially identical to original Prewar.
     1 lantern Lane
     Turnersville, NJ 08012

Why are three rails often used?

     The principal problem with two rail track is that the two rails
     contain opposite polarity voltage. When the track loops back on itself
     the opposite rails will meet and a short will occur:

           ___B_______________________________B_______________
                           \                                  \
           _________________\______________________________    \
              A         \    \                 A           \    \
                         \    \                             \    \
                         B\    \A                            |    |
                           \    \                            |    |
                            \    \                         A/    /B
                             \    \___________A____________/    /
                              \                                /
                               \______________________________/
                                             B

     In three rail the outer two rails carry the same polarity with the
     inner rail opposite. Shorting is not a problem:

           ___A_______________________________A_______________
           ___B_________\_____________________B_____________  \
           ___________\__\________________________________  \  \
              A     \  \  \                   A           \  \  \
                     \  \  \                               \  \  \
                     A\ B\  \A                              |  |  |
                       \  \  \                              |  |  |
                        \  \  \                           A/  /B /A
                         \  \  \_______A__________________/  /  /
                          \  \_________B____________________/  /
                           \__________________________________/
                                       A

     This allows the construction of much more complicated layouts without
     electrical shorts. It also allows the insulation of one outer rail for
     the purposes of powering signaling accessories without disrupting
     current flow to the train and without the use of clumsy pressure
     plates.

Where can I get Hi-Rail track supplies for tinplate?

     Ross Custom Switches
     PO Box 110
     North Stonington, CT 06359

     Gar-Graves Trackage Corporation
     Department O, RR #1
     PO Box 255-A
     North Rase, NY 14516
     Phone: 315-483-6577
     Fax: 315-483-1415

     Rydin Industries Inc
     28W215 Warrenville Road
     Warrenville, IL 60555

How can I make my three tie track look more realistic?

     The time honored way is to use balsa wood and stain and make them by
     hand. The more modern approaches include rubber tie inserts from:

     Moondog Express
     located at Mikes trais and hobbies
     (see parts supplier listing)
     Phone: (800) 772-4407

     Snap in plastic roadbed is available from:

     "Trackmate"
     Dutch Country Hobby Products
     PO Box 209
     Terre Hill, PA 17581

     "Track-Bed System"
     Tinplate and Scale Models
     110 S. Seventh St., Dept 115
     North Wales, PA 19454-2817

     "VinylBed"
     Mainline Modules
     PO Box 21861, Dept T
     Chattanooga, TN 60130

     "Molded Rubber Roadbed"
     Rick Johnson
     19333 Sturgrass Drive
     Torrance, CA 90503
     Phone: 310-371-3887

     Lionel Trains
     Address in MANUFACTURERS section

What track systems are compatible?

     Adapter pins are available to connect Gargraves to O and O-27
     trackage. O and O-27 pins are different sizes and I have heard of no
     adapter. Adapters were also made for Super-O to O and O- 27. They are
     hard to find and a Gargraves connector can be used for the outer rails
     if it is flattened a bit, but originals must be used for the center
     rail. K-Line O uses O-27 pins. From Gargraves to Super-O you can make
     one by filing a Gargraves connector narrower on one side to fit into
     Super-O.

     TOO MANY such connections IS BAD! They are usually not smooth and can
     cause wheel wear and cause derailments, especially on curves and
     trestles.

     As to clearances for engines and rolling stock, anything will run on a
     larger track curvature but not always a smaller one. Rail height is
     rarely a problem. The semi-scale locomotives and cars are the most
     restrictive on curves and switches. Most other "compressed" equipment
     will run on O-27 or larger diameter, but there are exceptions. The
     classifications of O and O-27 in the Lionel catalogs has little to do
     with what track is right for piece. Instead they are used to define
     different price levels in the line. For example the O-27 2020 steam
     turbine and the O 671 steam turbine are identical other than the
     number. The 671 just came with fancier sets. For more details on
     switch clearances see the SWITCHES section.

SWITCHES

How do those Lionel "non-derailing" switches work?

     Switches equipped with the non derailing feature (three rail) have an
     insulated rail at the end of each track on the split end of the
     switch. The switch operates by means of two electromagnetic coils
     wired oppositely, surrounding a plunger. The plunger is mechanically
     connected to the moving mechanism of the switch. One coil supply is
     permanently connected to the center power rail, except in the #022 O
     gauge switch where a constant power plug can replace it. The other
     supply of each coil is connected to the controller where either can be
     connected trough the third wire to ground to energize that coil and
     move the switch in that direction. In non-derailing the insulated
     rails are also connected to the appropriate coil to clear trains
     coming from that direction. When the train bridges that rail to the
     ground rail the switch will move to pass it automatically and thus
     avoid derails in an open switch. Since the insulated rail is at the
     end of the switch, an insulated track pin is needed to prevent a
     permanent connection to ground. The length of the insulated can be
     increased by connecting an insulated rail track to the switch
     insulated rail. One problem is that when power is supplied and a train
     is stopped on the switch, the coil will remain energized as long as
     the rail is bridged. The #022 switch avoids this with a series of
     contacts inside that deactivate the coil when it is already in the
     proper direction.

What about Marx switches?

     Marx switches are wired to the opposite polarity so the permanent
     connection is to ground and the switched supply is the power
     connection. This makes the insulated rail method impossible, but it
     also makes the use of constant supply voltage possible without the
     need of special plugs. Otherwise the switch design is the same.

I'm having power conduction trouble beyond my non derailing switches.

     99 times of 100 power conduction problems are in the center rail which
     has nothing to do with the non-derailing feature. On the 1122 the non
     derailing insulated rails are surrounded by non-insulated rails
     providing two connections to each connected track. With two rails to
     each track this usually is not a problem. _BUT_ on the 1122E the
     insulated rails are NOT so surrounded!!! They are the two closest
     rails in the Y part of the switch.

             --------------------------------
             --------------===    -----------
             -----------\   \    \----------  <--this one
                          \   \    \
                            \   \    \  <--this one

     They must have insulating pins at their ends to insulate them from the
     track ground or else they will be energized ALL THE TIME. This will
     eventually burn up your switch machine and also drain power from the
     locomotive.

     If this in not the problem there may be an internal contact problem.
     Because of the arrangement of the insulated rails on your switch there
     is only one outer rail connected into to each track on the split end
     of the switch. This makes the probability of a bad connection trough
     the base plate more likely than on the regular 1122. The three center
     rails are connected through a buss bar separated from the base plate
     by a paper insulator. The insulator can fail and cause a short (rare)
     and more likely the connection to the rail may have worked loose.

     A simple test to find a bad connection is to take a foot of wire and
     touching it to each rail on either side of the switch while the train
     is running thorough the "slow" section. By doing this to each switch
     and observing if the loco speeds up, you can tell which rail is at
     fault on which switch.

     Of course the fail-proof solution to a bad connection is to add
     another transformer connection to the other side of the switches.

Are different brand switches compatible?

     Essentially all switches with a long pivoting rail are compatible.
     Older style switches are of this type.

            ----------------------          ------------*---------
                                                         *
            -----************-----          ------   *    *  -----
                                                      *    *
            -----************-----          ------\    *    *-----
                   \    \    \                     \    \    \
                    \    \    \                     \    \    \

     The entire center two rails within the switch rotates around a central
     pivot. This creates a solid path through the switch for the wheel
     flange.

     The newer type has only half the two sections move.

            ----------------------           -----***-------------
                  *****___                           **___
            -------       \ ------           ------       \ ------
                           \                      ***      \
            ------*****----- -----           -----\  **----- -----  <
                   \    \    \                     \    \    \       |
                    \ (  \    \                     \ (  \    \      |
                                                                     |
                                                            ^--------
                                                           switch point

     At the switch point where the two inner side rails meet there is a
     flat spot without a rail that allows flanges from both directions to
     pass through. The result is that the wheel flanges tend to work out
     momentarily and catch the rail when it starts again. To solve this
     problem a flange catch "(" is installed on the other rail to hold that
     wheel and hence the whole axile on the tracks and resist that drift.
     This works well enough for Lionel and Flyer, but most Marx loco wheels
     have their gearing extend all the way to the edge of the wheel flange.
     As a result the gear teeth catch the flange catch causing a
     derailment. This also occurs on Lionel control rails on RCS, UCS and
     other sections.

     Marx switches of this type do not have the flange catches. Their loco
     wheels have fatter (and less prototypical) wheel flanges with a less
     steep angle which eliminates the catching of thinner Lionel flanges.
     Lionel's flange catchers are the same solution used on real railroads
     as is the entire later switch design (relatively).

End of the Tinplate Train FAQ, Part 2 of 4
HAPPY MODELLING!
On to part 3 of 4
