Subject: rec.pets.dogs:  Old English Sheepdog  Breed-FAQ
Supersedes: <dogs-faq/breeds/oes_826083322@rtfm.mit.edu>
Date: 5 Apr 1996 15:28:27 GMT
X-Last-Updated: 1995/08/04

Posting-frequency: 30 days
URL: http://www.io.com/~tittle/dogs-faq/breeds/oes.html

This is a regularly posted faq and appears every thirty days in
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kept at the URL listed above.

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                           THE OLD ENGLISH SHEEPDOG
                                       
   Authors:
     * Kyosti Kulusjarvi, original author,
       [kyosti.kulusjarvi@ntc.nokia.com] Oulu, FINLAND
     * Ray Charette [charette@world.std.com]
       
   Contributors:
     * Peggy Anderson [OESPBGV@aol.com]
     * Joel Levinson [joel.levinson@mogur.com]
     * Aimee Baird Pharr [aabuva@wam.umd.edu]
       
   Editor:
     * Aimee Baird Pharr [aabuva@wam.umd.edu]
       
   Thanks to:
          Ann Freelander, Caj Haakansson, Sharon Hope, Denise Humphries,
          Marlyn Isaac, Rhonda Paprocki, Dirk Pfeifer, Paula Wheeler,
          Melisande Wolf, the Old English Sheepdog Club of America, the
          New England Old English Sheepdog Club for use of their
          Information Pamphlet, and probably many others to whom we
          apologize for not including.
          
   
   
   And special thanks to Cindy Tittle Moore [rpd-info@netcom.com] for
   making this FAQ public.
   
   Authors and editor welcome any comments or suggestions you may have.
   If you would like to see something added or changed, please send an
   e-mail to Kulusjarvi, Charette, or Pharr.
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Revision History

        Created 29-Dec-1994 by Kyosti Kulusjarvi
                
        Modified 25-Mar-1995 by Kulusjarvi, Charette, and Pharr
                Reformatted, edited, and added sections on
                Characteristics and Temperament, Grooming and Coat Care,
                Obedience, Herding, Australia Breed Standard, and Online
                Information.
                
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Table of Contents

     * History of the Breed
     * The Breed Standard
          + American
          + Australian
          + British and European
     * Characteristics and Temperament
     * Grooming and Coat Care
     * Obedience Training
     * Herding
     * Special Medical Problems
     * Frequently Asked Questions
          + Does the OES require a lot of grooming?
          + Does the OES shed?
          + What happened to the tail?
          + Does the OES eat a lot?
          + Is the OES protective of the home and family?
          + How much exercise does the OES require?
          + Does the OES drool?
     * Books
     * Breed and Rescue Contacts
          + Unites States
          + Canada
          + Australia
          + Europe
     * Online Information
       
   
     _________________________________________________________________
   
History of the Breed

   The origin of the Old English Sheepdog remains a question of keen
   interest to Bobtail fanciers, and is still open to new theories and
   discoveries. However, there are traces of evidence which place its
   origin in the early nineteenth century, centered in the Southwestern
   Counties of England. Some maintain that the Scottish Bearded Collie
   had a large part in its making; others claim the Russian Owtchar as
   one of the progenitors of the Old English Sheepdog.
   
   Writings of that time refer to a "drover's dog" which was used
   primarily for driving sheep and cattle to market. It is speculated
   that these drover's dogs were exempt from taxes due to their working
   status. To prove their occupation, their tails were docked, leading to
   the custom of calling the sheepdog by the nickname "Bob" or "Bobtail".
   Although this dog has been used more for driving than for herding, the
   lack of a tail to serve as a rudder, so to speak, has in no way
   affected its ability to work with heavier kinds of sheep or cattle.
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
The Breed Standard

  AMERICAN BREED STANDARD
  
   This standard is copyright by the American Kennel Club, which has
   refused permission for its reproduction here. Please consult their
   publication The Dog Book for full details.
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
   
   
  AUSTRALIAN BREED STANDARD
  
   General Appearance: A strong compact looking dog of great symmetry;
   absolutely free of legginess; profusely coated all over. All round he
   is a thick-set muscular able-bodied dog, with a most intelligent
   expression; free of all Poodle or Deerhound characteristics.
   
   Characteristics: The dog stands lower at the shoulder than the loin.
   When walking or trotting has a characteristic ambling or pacing
   movement. His bark should be loud with a peculiar "pot-casse" ring in
   it.
   
   Head and Skull: Skull capacious and rather squarely formed, giving
   plenty of room for brain power. The parts over the eyes should be well
   arched and the whole well covered with hair. Jaw fairly long, strong,
   square and truncated; the stop should be defined to avoid a Deerhound
   face. Nose always black, large and capacious.
   
   Eyes: Dark or wall are to be preferred.
   
   Ears: Small and carried flat to the side of the head, coated
   moderately.
   
   Mouth: Teeth strong and large, evenly placed and level.
   
   Neck: The neck should be fairly long, arched gracefully, and well
   coated with hair.
   
   Forequarters: The forelegs should be dead straight, with plenty of
   bone, holding the body well from the ground, without approaching
   legginess, well coated all round. The shoulders sloping and narrow at
   the points, the dog standing lower at the shoulders than at the loin.
   
   Body: Rather short and very compact, ribs well sprung and brisket deep
   and capacious. The loins should be very stout and gently arched.
   
   Hindquarters: The hindquarters should be round and muscular, hocks
   well let down and the hams densely coated with a thick long jacket in
   excess of that of any other part of the body.
   
   Feet: Small, round; toes well arched, and pads thick and round.
   
   Tail: Preferably docked. Puppies requiring docking should have the
   operation performed within a week from birth, preferably within four
   days.
   
   Gait/Movement: Very elastic in gallop but in walking or trotting has a
   characteristic ambling or pacing movement.
   
   Coat: Profuse and of good hard texture; not straight, but shaggy and
   free from curl. The undercoat should be a waterproof pile when not
   removed by grooming.
   
   Colour: Any shade of grey, grizzle, blue or blue merle, with or
   without white markings; any shade of brown or sable to be considered
   distinctly objectionable and not to be encouraged.
   
   Size: 56cm (22 inches) and upwards for dogs, slightly less for
   bitches. Type, symmetry and character of the greatest importance and
   on no account to be sacrificed to size alone.
   
   Faults: A long narrow head.
   
   Note: Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully
   descended into the scrotum.
   
   Copyright by Australian National Kennel Control
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
   
   
  BRITISH BREED STANDARD
  
   
   
      The British Breed Standard is also the accepted standard across Europe.
      
   
   
   General Appearance: Strong, square looking dog of great symmetry and
   overall soundness. Absolutely free of legginess, profusely coated all
   over. A thick-set, muscular, able-bodied dog with a most intelligent
   expression. The natural outline should not be artificially changed by
   scissoring or clipping.
   
   Characteristics: Of great stamina, exhibiting a gently rising topline,
   and a pear- shaped body when viewed from above. The gait has a typical
   roll when ambling or walking. Bark has a distinctive toned quality.
   
   Temperament: A biddable dog of even disposition. Bold, faithful and
   trustworthy, with no suggestion of nervousness or unprovoked
   aggression.
   
   Head and Skull: In proportion to the size of the body. Skull
   capacious, rather square. Well arched above eyes, stop well defined.
   Muzzle strong, square and truncated, measuring approximately half of
   the total head length. Nose large and black. Nostrils wide.
   
   Eyes: Set well apart. Dark or wall eyes. Two blue eyes acceptable.
   Light eyes undesirable. Pigmentation on the eye rim is preferred.
   
   Ears: Small and carried flat to the side of head.
   
   Mouth: Teeth strong, large and evenly placed. Scissor bite - jaws
   strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper
   teeth closely overlapping the lower teeth and set square to the jaws.
   Pincer tolerated but undesirable.
   
   Neck: Fairly long, strong, arched gracefully.
   
   Forequarters: Forelegs perfectly straight, with plenty of bone,
   holding body well from ground. Elbows fitting close to brisket.
   Shoulders should be well laid back, being narrower at the point of
   withers than at the point of shoulder. Loaded shoulders undesirable.
   Dog standing lower at withers than loin.
   
   Body: Rather short, and compact, with well-sprung ribs, and deep
   capacious brisket.
   
   Hindquarters: Loin very sturdy, broad and gently arched, quarters well
   covered round and muscular, the second thigh is long and well
   developed, the stifle well turned, and the hocks set low. From the
   rear the hocks should be quite straight, with the feet turning neither
   in nor out.
   
   Feet: Small, round and tight, toes well arched, pads thick and hard.
   Dew claws should be removed.
   
   Tail: Customarily completely docked.
   
   Gait/Movement: When walking, exhibits a bear-like roll from the rear.
   When trotting, shows effortless extension and strong driving rear
   action, with legs moving straight along line of travel. Very elastic
   at the gallop. At slow speeds, some dogs may tend to pace. When
   moving, the head carriage may adopt a naturally lower position.
   
   Coat: Profuse, of good harsh texture, not straight but shaggy and free
   from curl. Undercoat of waterproof pile. Head and skull well covered
   with hair, ears moderately coated, neck well coated, forelegs well
   coated all round, hindquarters more heavily coated than rest of the
   body. Quality, texture, and profusion to be considered above mere
   length.
   
   Colour: Any shade of grey, grizzle or blue. Body and hindquarters of
   solid colour with or without white socks. White patches in the solid
   area to be discouraged. Head, neck, forequarters and under belly to be
   white with or without markings. Any shade of brown undesirable.
   
   Size: Height- 24 inches (61 cm) and upwards for dogs; 22 inches (56
   cm) and upwards for bitches. Type and symmetry of greatest importance,
   and no account to be sacrificed to size alone.
   
   Faults: Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a
   fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded
   should be in exact proportion to its degree.
   
   Copyright by The English Kennel Club, 1986
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Characteristics and Temperament

   The Old English Sheepdog is a playful, affectionate, fun-loving
   "clown," who delights in frolicking with his family and neighborhood
   children. In fact, adolescence in the OES often extends to
   approximately age three and your adult OES will retain his playful
   demeanor well into his golden years.
   
   An intelligent breed, the OES is a quick learner, always looking for
   something interesting and fun to do. OES are capable of performing
   numerous tasks - herding, agility, obedience trials, and search and
   rescue. This breed requires significant physical exercise as well as
   mental exercise. If your pup does not receive enough of either, you
   may come home to find the mischief he has so enjoyed in your absence.
   
   A properly bred OES will be good-natured and kind and this is what
   makes the OES an excellent children's companion and great family dog.
   An old description of the breed refers to the OES as a "Nanny." This
   term of endearment arose because of numerous stories surrounding the
   role of the OES in the family. Some have said that the OES will
   supervise a young child by insuring that the child will remain in a
   particular area by herding him into it. Others have described the OES
   who acts as a means of support to the toddler learning to walk.
   Although the OES is excellent with children, it is extremely important
   to note that children should never be left unsupervised with any dog,
   regardless of breed or temperament.
   
   When considering owning an OES, you must remember the two biggest
   requirements of the breed: grooming and exercise. If you cannot commit
   to both of these, you may want to consider another one of the many
   wonderful breeds available.
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Grooming and Coat Care

   To properly maintain your dog's coat you will need some basic grooming
   supplies. These include a good quality steel pin brush, coarse steel
   comb, soft slicker brush, nail clippers, a good pair of trimming
   scissors, and a hemostat (to remove the hair from inside the ears). A
   grooming table will make your job a lot easier and prevent your back
   from aching. Once you have the proper equipment, you need to learn the
   correct method of brushing. A young puppy needs very little grooming,
   however, this is the time to teach them to lay on the table and stay
   still while you brush.
   
   Weekly grooming is very important to keep a coat in good condition. By
   8 or 9 months of age you will start finding mats if the coat is not
   brushed through. Mats can lead to serious skin problems and are most
   uncomfortable for your dog.
   
   To groom your dog, position him on his side on the grooming table.
   Using your pin brush start at the withers and brush against the grain
   of the hair so that you can see the skin. Brush in a line, a few hairs
   at a time, always getting down to the skin. Remember this is a double
   coat consisting of a soft undercoat and a coarse outer coat. Correct
   brushing lifts and fluffs the coat as the brush removes loose
   undercoat and debris out to the end of the hair. Correct brushing
   should be a slow and gentle motion to avoid pulling out too much coat.
   A great hint to prevent the coat from splitting: lightly spray the
   dog's coat with water (or hair conditioner) before brushing!
   
   Once you have a line the length of the dog, go back and start a little
   further with a new line; again getting down to the skin. Continue
   until the side is complete. Now, brush the legs, starting at the foot
   and brushing in the direction of coat growth. Use the comb for more
   difficult areas. Use the slicker brush to groom the ears and muzzle,
   etc., and to fluff the legs. Once finished, stand the dog on the table
   and trim the coat on the feet so that it is even, and just touches the
   table. Use your scissors to trim between the pads and to trim the
   rear.
   
   Mats are the biggest problem with an OES coat. If your dog's coat is
   not kept up, he will become matted to the skin and you will have to
   shave or clip him. The coat tends to mat when changing from puppy to
   adult coat. Once the adult coat has emerged, you will find regular
   grooming will keep your dog from matting. When you find a mat,
   separate it with your fingers and then comb the hair a little at a
   time until it begins to come apart. Continue with the same technique
   of pulling the mat apart and combing a little more until the mat is
   removed. Remember, you must get down to the skin and remove all clumps
   of hair. A dog that is matted can take hours to properly groom.
   Patience and a positive attitude are also essential in caring for a
   dog with a matted coat. Separating a small portion of a mat and
   working on one area at a time will get the job done.
   
   There is no easy way to remove excessive mats from a sheepdog, but you
   will feel a great sense of accomplishment when your dog is groomed and
   mat-free. A coat long-neglected results in a dog that is an unsightly
   mess and that can become infected with parasites and skin infections.
   In cases of severe neglect the coat must be shaved and the dog bathed,
   so the skin can be evaluated.
   
   Remember, removing mats from your dog will take a lot of time. The OES
   who is having mats removed from his coat is not feeling comfortable
   about this process either. If you can not finish after a few hours,
   take a break and return when rested. It will benefit the both of you!
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Obedience Training

   Obedience training is encouraged for all dogs, but especially for a
   large breed like the OES. The basic commands - sit, down, come and
   stay - are important for everyday living with any dog, but add a wet
   and muddy coat and believe me, these commands become crucial for
   survival.
   
   Basic obedience training can start when the puppy is first brought
   home. Don't wait until the dog is six months old or you may have a lot
   more work on your hands! A small piece of food held just-so over the
   pup's head and a light push on the rear while you say "sit" will
   achieve the result you want. The food will help ingrain in the puppy's
   fully developed brain what the word "sit" means. To teach "down,"
   place a piece of food on the floor between the pup's front paws and
   pull forward while gently pushing down on the rear and simultaneously
   saying "down." To teach "come," one member of the household calls the
   puppy with a treat as a reward and then another person calls the puppy
   back again. This will teach a nice, fast response.
   
   Puppy basics is where it all begins! Even the older sheepdog can learn
   by this method of training. Old English Sheepdogs are very intelligent
   and learn quickly. They can be excellent obedience dogs for
   competition, but be wary that once they know an exercise, they are
   always looking for a way to make it more interesting!
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Herding

   The Old English Sheepdog has a tradition in herding livestock going
   back to its origins. The breed was originally used to move livestock
   down the country road to market. This would generally be done with the
   dog (or dogs, depending on the amount of livestock) at the back or
   side of the stock. Unfortunately, today there are few OES that are
   used for this purpose. However, it is possible to find people that
   enjoy herding.
   
   Herding can be a fun activity for both you and your dog. Most OES love
   the activity and the exercise. They greatly enjoy moving the sheep
   around from place to place. Herding is an activity that creates a very
   special bond between you and your dog. It takes what one might
   consider normal bonding to another level, especially when the dog
   seems to realize that this is what hundreds of years of breeding was
   meant for.
   
   OES have two different herding styles. Neither is more acceptable than
   the other. Some dogs are natural drivers, moving the stock away from
   the handler, while others are natural fetchers, taking the stock to
   the handler. The important thing is to encourage the dog to do
   whatever comes naturally. In the early stages of training, don't try
   to make the dog do anything that isn't natural. Later, your dog can be
   trained to do many kinds of tasks.
   
   To get started in herding, find someone who is experienced with dogs
   and livestock so he or she can help you introduce your OES to the
   stock. Sheep are the best stock for this purpose. It is not
   recommended to put a green dog on cattle, and ducks might be too
   small. The introduction is best done in a small pen, generally 80' x
   80' at most in size. With a small pen, the situation will be better
   under your control. It may be tentative at first - your dog has to
   figure out what to do. Once he does, he will generally take off
   running after the sheep! Don't be discouraged if your dog does not
   'turn on' the first time he or she sees stock. Some dogs, including
   OES, need several exposures to start working. In fact, the currently
   top ranked OES in the AKC herding trial program didn't "turn on" to
   livestock until his tenth exposure!
   
   What can you do with this hobby? First and foremost, HAVE FUN! It is
   an activity that can be exciting and rewarding for both dog and owner.
   In addition, there are several different trial programs that offer
   herding performance titles to people with herding breeds:
   
     * American Kennel Club: The AKC has a test and trial title program
       available, with five different titles and six different levels.
       Each level requires more difficult work. The levels and titles
       are: HT: Herding Tested, PT: Pre Trial, HS: Herding Started, HI:
       Herding Intermediate, HX: Herding Advanced, and H.CH: Herding
       Champion.
       
     * American Herding Breed Association: The AHBA also offers tests,
       trials and titles. They are: HCT: Herding Capability Tested, JHD:
       Junior Herding Dog, HTD-I: Herding Trial Dog, level I (Started),
       HTD-II: Herding Trial Dog, level II (Intermediate), and HTD-III:
       Herding Trial Dog, level III (Advanced).
       
     * Australian Shepherd Club of America: The ASCA offers the following
       trials and titles as well: STD: Started Trial Dog, OTD: Open Trial
       Dog, ATD: Advanced Trial Dog, and RD: Ranch Dog.
       
   
   
   A herding trial is basically an obstacle course set up with a series
   of chutes, pens and panels through which you and your dog take the
   stock. Most of the time, sheep is the preferred stock. However, cattle
   and ducks are also used.
   
   Trials are a great and fun way to test what you have done in training.
   They can also be an exciting way to spend time with other people who
   love doing the same thing - herding, no matter what the breed!
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Special Medical Problems

   Hip dysplasia is a problem in the breed and can be crippling for a dog
   of this size. It is highly advisable to purchase a puppy from a
   breeder who has received X-ray certification for the joints (hips and
   elbows) of both parents. In the United States, the Orthopedic
   Foundation for Animals (OFA), a well known and respected registry,
   will evaluate the X-rays of dogs and will provide certification for
   dogs, who are at least 24 months of age. In other countries, it is
   usually the official kennel clubs who provide similar certification.
   
   Hereditary Cataract and Progressive Retinal Atrophy (PRA) are two eye
   conditions, which are sadly being found in increasing numbers. Before
   buying a puppy, check that the parent's eyes have been checked for
   PRA. This can only be done by a qualified ophthalmologist who
   completes an electroretinography on both dogs. Additionally, as PRA
   can appear later in life (as late as 8 years), it is important to
   verify that the breeder has cleared all dogs' eyes annually, including
   those that are no longer being bred.
   
   While Thyroid disorders are not unique to the OES, there is a fairly
   high incidence of thyroid disease in the breed. Some of the signs of
   thyroid disease include (but are not limited to) poor coat, either in
   length or brittleness of the fur, and excess lethargy. If you suspect
   a thyroid problem, take your OES to the vet! Diagnosis can be made via
   a simple blood panel. Most vets will complete a T4. This test is
   adequate, but not conclusive. The Michigan State University (MSU)
   Animal Health Diagnostic Lab in Lansing, Michigan, USA performs the
   most complete work-up. If your vet is not familiar with this
   procedure, the phone number for the Diagnostic Lab is (517) 353-1683.
   To keep costs down, some areas offer Thyroid Clinics so that dogs may
   be tested and blood work may be sent to MSU in bulk. If your dog is
   diagnosed with thyroid disease, it is simple to treat. Treatment
   consists of daily medication, generally for the life of the dog. The
   food additive, sea kelp, is also helpful. This may be found in a
   product by Solid Gold, called Seameal which may be sprinkled on your
   OES's food. Once diagnosed, your dog's thyroid levels should be
   rechecked yearly.
   
   For more information on any of these problems, please refer to the
   FAQs entitled Canine Medical Information, Part I and Canine Medical
   Information Part 2, written and maintained by Cindy Tittle Moore.
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Frequently Asked Questions

  DOES THE OES REQUIRE A LOT OF GROOMING?
  
   Yes. Yes. Yes. When showing or growing out the initial puppy coat,
   daily grooming is an absolute necessity to avoid mats and tangles. If
   you do not plan to show your OES, a weekly grooming session, taking a
   couple of hours, is satisfactory. For more detailed information on
   grooming, refer to the section entitled Grooming and Coat Care. If you
   are not ready for a lot of grooming, you may want to consider another
   breed.
   
  DOES THE OES SHED?
  
   With daily/weekly grooming sessions, most of the loose hair will be
   removed by the brush. The OES is not considered a "shedding breed" as
   it maintains its dense coat throughout the year. The little hair that
   is shed is relatively easy to remove from carpeting and clothing, more
   so than the short prickly hairs of some of the shorter coated breeds
   (e.g., Dalmatians).
   
  WHAT HAPPENED TO THE TAIL?
  
   As mentioned in the breed standard, the tail is usually docked a few
   days after birth. Dogs are not customarily shown with any more than a
   bob at most. In fact, as late as the 20th century, breeders began
   reporting the birth of tail-less pups. In the United States it is
   difficult to find a breeder who will not dock the tails. However, some
   countries, like Sweden, prohibit docking. In European dog shows, OES
   with tails are as equally acceptable as those without.
   
   Historically, the docked tail has given a nickname to the breed:
   Bobtail.
   
  DOES THE OES EAT A LOT?
  
   During their first year, OES grow from about one pound (500g) to about
   sixty pounds (30kg). When fully grown, they will often weigh between
   70 to 110 lbs. (30-50 kg). Consequently, OES require plenty of food to
   support that growth. Once they reach adulthood, however, they have a
   very low metabolism and do not eat a lot. Of course, the amount of
   food consumed varies significantly depending upon level of exercise,
   individual variation, and climate. Overfeeding an OES is easy to do
   because the profuse coat readily hides extra pounds. It is extremely
   important that you check your dog's weight on a regular basis.
   
  IS THE OES PROTECTIVE OF THE HOME AND FAMILY?
  
   Some are and some are not. Of course, the sheer size of the OES and
   the barking he will provide is protective in and of itself. However,
   many OES have been known to welcome friends and strangers alike into
   the home. If you are specifically looking for a guard dog, you may
   want to consider another breed.
   
  HOW MUCH EXERCISE DOES THE OES REQUIRE?
  
   Because of its herding origins, an OES should be exercised regularly.
   The amount of exercise required will vary depending upon the dog's
   age. Puppies have a lot of energy, so much so that they will use it to
   destroy your home if they do not have daily outlets. On the other
   hand, aging dogs often prefer to lay on the couch and will need
   substantially less exercise. Between those extremes, 1-2 hours of
   daily exercise should be sufficient. It is important to note that the
   OES can readily adjust to less exercise, but this is not particularly
   healthy for him.
   
   OES are capable of doing sheep herding and agility, activities which
   demand a healthy and physically fit dog. The amount of daily exercise
   is really left to the owner's discretion. Be sure to adjust your dog's
   food intake to the amount of exercise he receives.
   
   Finally, DO NOT exercise your OES when the weather is hot. Their dense
   undercoat is extremely warm and the dog can get overheated easily and
   quickly. One way to exercise your OES when it is too hot is to
   exercise his mind. Searching for a toy, playing hide and seek, opening
   boxes to find goodies within, and teaching him new tricks are all
   favorite pastimes.
   
  DOES THE OES DROOL?
  
   Some do and some do not. Some will drool so much that the coat under
   their mouth turns yellow. If this happens, a regular washing,
   especially after meals, will help. Another method in keeping a
   "wet-beard" dry, is to apply cornstarch to the beard. Once the
   cornstarch has completely dried, brush it out. Also, this works well
   when an OES has diarrhea.
   
   Even though your OES may drool, it will not be as big of a problem as
   it is with the St. Bernard or Newfoundland.
   
   return to table of contents
     _________________________________________________________________
   
Books

   Berkowitz, Mona. (1967). How to Raise and Train an Old English
   Sheepdog. TFH Publications: Neptune, N.J. A small booklet by a
   long-time breeder, exhibitor, and judge. A new printing is currently
   available.
   
   Boyer, Alice J. (1978). Your Old English Sheepdog. Dentinger's:
   Fairfax, VA Hardback, illus., 160 pages.
   
   Brearley, Joan McDonald. (1989). The Old English Sheepdog. ISBN
   0-86622-710-5. TFH Publications: Neptune, N.J. An update to the 1974
   publication by Brearley and Anderson, it contains some interesting
   photos of the early days of the breed in the United States.
   
   Davis, Ann. (1973). The Old English Sheepdog. Howell Book House: New
   York. Mrs. Davis is an English breeder and judge. Her book includes
   some information on American dogs and breeders as well. Limited number
   of illustrations. 166 pages plus index.
   
   Gould, Jean. All about the Old English Sheepdog. ISBN 0-7207-1809-0.
   Need more information.
   
   Keeling, Jill. (1975). The Old English Sheepdog. Arco-Foyles
   Handbooks: New York, Revised Ed. Older editions may still be found.
   Originally published by Foyles Handbooks of London in 1961.
   
   Mandeville, John. (1976). The Complete Old English Sheepdog. Howell
   Book House: New York. Especially valuable for its wealth of detail
   about the early-day dogs and breeders in the U.S. Photos included. 287
   pages.
   
   Pisano, Beverly. (1980). Old English Sheepdogs. TFH Publications:
   Neptune, N.J. ISBN 0-87666-723-X. A hardback book of 125 pages with
   basic comments about ownership and showing of the Bobtail.
   
   Schneider, Earl (ed.). Know Your Old English Sheepdog. The Pet Library
   LTD: New York. Year of publication not identified, but this would have
   been from the late 1960's. A small booklet, interesting mostly for its
   color photographs. It belongs in a "complete" collection, but is too
   small to provide much detail or practical help.
   
   Smith, Christina. (1993). The Complete Old English Sheepdog. Howell
   Book House: New York. ISBN 0-87605-223-5. A hardback which contains
   valuable information on all aspects of owning an OES. Also included is
   a listing of important and well known kennels in the U.S., Great
   Britain, Australia, Scandinavia, and the rest of Europe. 176 pages
   with numerous black and white photos.
   
   Woods, Sylvia and Owens, R. (1981). Old English Sheepdogs. Faber and
   Faber: London, England. A hardback British publication, this book
   allows the reader a chance to review the breed from the English point
   of view and history. 240 pages.
   
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National Breed and Rescue Contacts

  UNITED STATES
  
    Breed Clubs
    
   Old English Sheepdog Club of America (OESCA - AKC Member Club)
   Corresponding Secretary, Kathryn Bunnell, 14219 E. 79th St. S., Derby,
   KS 67037
   * For other regional clubs, contact the OESCA.
   
   New England Old English Sheepdog Club (AKC Member Club)
   Eileen Maciejczyk, 97 Vermont Ave., Nashua, NH 03060
     * Chicagoland OES Club -- ** Need a contact
     * Golden State OES Club -- Jane Brunson, 3570 Newhaven Road,
       Pasadena, CA 91107
     * Greater Pittsburgh OES Club -- Sally Carolus, 1068 Fox Terrier
       Drive, Bethel Park, PA 15102
     * North Texas OES Club -- Kerrie Farrell, 411 Elmwood Road, Waco, TX
       76712
     * OESC of Greater Seattle -- Elizabeth Layman, 16211 NE 51, Redmond,
       WA 98052
     * OESC of Greater Detroit -- Geraldine House, 4882 Diehl Road,
       Metamora, IL 48455
     * OESC of Greater Cincinnati -- Karen Marley, 6688 Fernshire Court,
       Mason, OH 45040
     * OESC of Southern CA -- Jo O'Dell, 6426 N. Willard Ave., San
       Gabriel, CA 91775
     * OESC of League of Northern CA -- Janet Butler, 6824 Mellodora
       Drive, Orangevale, CA 95662
     * Greater Portland OES Club -- Nan Damberg, Pawprint Land, Box 216,
       Boring, OR 97009
     * Twin Cities OESC -- Karen Joe, 5708 Blue Bird Land, Minnetonka, MN
       55345
     * Twin Colonies OESC of NJ -- Sheila Kenyon, 4 Log Road, Morristown,
       NJ 07960
     * Heartland OESC -- William Long, 5704 Greenwood, Shawnee, KS 66216
     * OESC of Southeastern Wisconsin -- Claudia R. McDermott, P.O. Box
       303, Greendale, WI 53129
     * OESC Fanciers of Central Arizona -- Nancy Smith, 911 W. Seldon
       Lane, Phoenix, AZ 85021
     * OES Club of Sacramento -- Karen Stetler, 4058 Witt Road, Live Oak,
       CA 95953
       
    Rescue
    
   Old English Sheepdog Club of America
   Laurie McCain, 706 Whitney's Landing Road, Crownsville, MD 21032
   (410-923-6181)
   *** Laurie will have a list of regional contacts.
     * Chicagoland Old English Sheepdog Club -- Grace Fujikawa, 381
       Fairview Ave., Winnetka, IL 60093, (708) 446-7381 Heather -- (313)
       338-8828
     * Greater Pittsburg Old English Sheepdog Club -- Chris Gaburri, 457
       Orchard Ave., Pittsburg, PA 15202 (412) 761-0493
     * New England Old English Sheepdog Club -- Elizabeth Ames, 9
       Overlook Drive, Bedford, MA 01730 (617) 275-6671
     * Old English Sheepdog Fanciers of Central Arizona -- Cheryl Kulzer,
       2112 N. Pennington Drive, Chandler, AZ 85244 (602) 821-5727
     * Old English Sheepdog League of Northern California -- Pam Henry,
       2491 Darla Drive, Santa Rosa, CA 95401 (707) 579-1848 -- Madeline
       Ericson (716) 293-2967, NY (Buffalo area)
     * Twin Colonies Old English Sheepdog Club of Northern New Jersey --
       Sheila Kenyon, 4 Log Road, Morristown, NJ 07960 (201) 538-4129
     * Jack Wilhelm -- (206-771-7349) "Rescues and places large shaggy
       dogs, particularly, Old English Sheepdog mixes."
     * Melisande Wolf -- Online resource, e-mail: mrw5@psuvm.psu.edu
       
  CANADA
  
   Old English Sheepdog and Owners Club of Canada
   Marg Trenholm, P.O. Box 122, Morin Heights, Que JOR 1H0
   
  AUSTRALIA
     * OES Club of New South Wales -- Mrs. Rose Dillon, 3 Delgaun Place,
       Baulkham Hills NSW 2153
     * OES Club of Queensland -- Mrs. Lorraine Perrin, 140 Springacre
       Road, Thornlands Qld. 4164
     * OES Club of South Australia -- Mrs. Daphne Cain, 3 Laver Street,
       Hectorville S.A. 5073
     * OES Club of Victoria -- Mrs. Lorraine Walsh, 476 Belgrave - Hallam
       Road, Narre Warren North 3804
     * Tasmanian OES Club -- Mrs. Desiree Dyer, 1 Chen Court, Geilston
       Bay Tasmania 7015
     * OES Club of W.A. -- Mrs. Helen Boudewyns, 7 Isdell Place,
       Heathridge WA 6027
       
  EUROPE
  
    Breed Clubs
    
   OES Club (UK)
   Mrs. Pauline Barnes, South Farm House, Ypres Road, Chiseldon, Nr.
   Swindon, Wilts
   
   OES Club (Finland)
   Suomen Bobtailkerho ry, Mrs. Satu Tanner, Rakentajainrinne 5, 02340
   ESPOO Tel: +358 0 809 4347
   
    Rescue
    
   The OES Rescue Fund (UK)
   Secretary: Mrs. Jill Harwood, The Old Farmhouse, High Hameringham,
   Horncastle, Lincs. Tel: 065 888 644
   
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     _________________________________________________________________
   
Online Information

   OES FAQ:
          The latest version of this html document is available on the
          Web: http://www.io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/breeds/oes.html.
          This file is also posted regularly to the USENET group
          rec.pets.dogs.info or is available via anonymous ftp to
          rtfm.mit.edu in the directory
          pub/usenet/news.answers/dogs-faq/breeds.
          
   OES-List:
          Coming Soon. Check here at a later date for more information.
          
   Agility-L:
          List which discusses all aspects of the sport of agility. To
          join, send e-mail to: listserver@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu.
          Leave the subject line blank and in the body of the message
          type only: subscribe agility-l your-full-name.
          
   Conform-L:
          List which discusses all aspects of breed conformation and
          welcomes anyone who currently shows or who plans to show their
          dog in the future. To join, send e-mail to:
          listserver@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu. Leave the subject line
          blank and in the body of the message type only: subscribe
          conform-l your-full-name.
          
   Herders:
          List which discusses issues related to herding. To join, send
          e-mail to: terrih@mcnc.org. Leave the subject line blank and in
          the body of the message type only: subscribe herders
          your-full-name.
          
   Obed-L:
          List which discusses all aspects of obedience trials and
          training. This list is not for the discussion of general
          training concerns. To join, send e-mail to:
          listserver@reepicheep.gcn.uoknor.edu. Leave the subject line
          blank and in the body of the message type only: subscribe
          obed-l your-full-name.
          
   Other Web-related dog information:
          For information on many other aspects of dog ownership, other
          breed FAQs, and other fun material, check out the rec.pets.dogs
          home page, currently maintained by Cindy Tittle Moore at
          http://www.io.com/user/tittle/dogs-faq/homepage.html
          
   Pictures:
          To see a picture of an OES, check out Dianne Schoenberg's Chloe
          or other breeds at Michael Buening's home page at:
          http://www.nd.edu/~mbuening/DogHomePage.html.
          
   
   
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     _________________________________________________________________
   
   
    The Old English Sheepdog FAQ, 1995
