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Subject: rec.food.drink.tea mini-FAQ (53k)
Date: 1 Apr 1996 15:06:11 GMT
Summary: This document answers some of the most frequently asked
         questions about tea.
X-Newsreader: TIN [version 1.2 PL2]

Posting-Frequency: monthly
Version: 0.4
URL: http://www.nitehawk.dk/bnielsen

                     Rec.food.drink.tea mini-FAQ
                           (version 0.4)

To my surprise, this now is the official r.f.d.t. FAQ. I invite comments 
about how to improve it. 

This document, and many others about tea, are accessible on the
World Wide Web at Kai Birger Nielsen's web page: 
http://www.nitehawk.dk/bnielsen

Changes since version 0.3: History of the name 'tea'; information
on tea cultivation and production; recipe for masala chai; other
minor changes. 


                           **********************
Contents
 1. The basics
 2. Preparing tea
 3. Descriptions of popular teas
 4. Miscellany

                           **********************
1. The basics
 1.1. What is tea?
 1.2. What are the different kinds of tea?
  1.2.1. What are some of the most popular varieties?
  1.2.2. What about herbal teas?
 1.3. Where does tea come from?
  1.3.1. Is any tea grown commercially in other regions?
  1.3.2. Where did the name 'tea' come from?
 1.4. How is tea produced?
 1.5. What are the best kinds of tea?
  1.5.1. How is tea graded?
  1.5.2. Why all the fuss about expensive brands?
  1.5.3. Is there something wrong with tea bags?
 1.6. Is fancy tea much more expensive than standard commercial tea?

1.1. What is tea?

Tea is a drink made by infusing leaves of the tea plant (*Camellia
sinensis*) in hot water. The name 'tea' is also used to refer to the
leaves themselves; and it is also the name of a mid- to late-afternoon
meal in the British Isles and associated countries, at which tea (the
drink) is served along with various foods. 

1.2. What are the different kinds of tea?

The three main categories are green, black, and oolong. All three
kinds are made from the same plant species. The major differences
between them are a result of the different processing methods they
undergo. Black teas undergo several hours of oxidation in their
preparation for market; oolongs receive less oxidation, and green teas
are not oxidized at all.

There are, of course, many different varieties within these three main
categories. 

1.2.1. What are some of the most popular varieties?

Black, unblended:
Assam (India)
Ceylon (Sri Lanka)
Darjeeling (India)
Keemun (China)
Nilgiri (India)
Sikkim (India)
Yunnan (China)

Popular blends:
English Breakfast
Irish Breakfast
Russian Caravan

Scented/Flavored (both black and green):
Jasmine (China; green, scented with jasmine flowers)
Earl Grey (international; black, flavored with oil of bergamot)
Lapsang Souchong (China and Taiwan; black, scented with smoke)
Many varieties of flavored teas

Oolong:
Ti Kuan Yin [Tae Guanyin] (Mainland China)
Formosa Oolong (Taiwan, many varieties)
Bao Jong (a Formosa Oolong)
Pu-erh (China)

Green:
Genmaicha (Japan)
Gyokuro (Japan)
Hojicha (Japan)
Longjing [Lung Ching, Dragon Well] (China)
Mattcha (Japan, used in the Tea Ceremony)
Pouchong (China)
Silver Tip (China)
Spider Leg (Japan)
Gunpowder (China)

Detailed descriptions follow in section 3.

1.2.2. What about herbal teas?

Hundreds of different herbs have been used in beverages. These are
sometimes called herbal teas. Tea professionals and connoisseurs usually
prefer to restrict the name 'tea' to real tea, so you may see the
following names used as well: 
 A) 'Herbal infusion', which simply means a drink made by steeping an
herb in hot water. (Tea itself is an infusion of tea leaves.) 
 B) 'Tisane' [pronounced tee-ZAHN], which in French means any herbal
drink. 

Some common herbs that are used as tisanes are peppermint, chamomile,
rose hips, lemon verbena, and fennel. A number of companies specialize
in producing herbal blends. Many tea companies also sell tisanes. 

Some exaggerated claims have been made for the medicinal properties of
herbal infusions. Even so, some herbs do have generally recognized
benefits. To take only the three listed above: rose hips contain
vitamin C; chamomile helps many people relax; and peppermint has a
noticeable soothing effect on the stomach. 

1.3. Where does tea come from?

Tea has been an item of trade and tribute for at least three thousand
years. It was first cultivated and brewed in China, and many of the best
varieties still come from China. Some of the finest oolongs in the world
are grown in Taiwan. Japan also produces a considerable amount of green
tea, most of which is consumed domestically. 

After the British took up tea drinking, they began cultivating the
plants native to India in order to have more control over the trade.
India, Sri Lanka, and other South Asian countries produce a large
portion of the world harvest. 

1.3.1. Is any tea grown commercially in other regions?

Indonesia (primarily in Java and Sumatra) produces a considerable 
harvest each year, most of which is exported for use in blends. 

Tea is also grown commercially in Russia, Africa (notably Kenya), and
South America. Some of it is noteworthy, but not much. In addition to
good genetic "parentage," the right growing conditions are crucial. The
best tea is produced in cool, mountainous regions. There are few such
areas outside Asia that have been given over to tea production. 

1.3.2. Where did the name 'tea' come from?

The word for tea in most of mainland China (and also in Japan) is
'cha'. (Hence its frequency in names of Japanese teas: Sencha,
Hojicha, etc.) But the word for tea in Fujian province is 'te'
(prounounced approximately 'tay'). As luck would have it, the first
mass marketers of tea in the West were the Dutch, whose contacts were
in Fujian. They adopted this name, and handed it on to most other
European countries. The two exceptions are Russia and Portugal, who
had independent trade links to China. The Portuguese call it 'cha',
the Russians 'chai'. Other areas (such as Turkey, South Asia and the
Arab countries) have some version of 'chai' or 'shai'. 

'Tay' was the pronunication when the word first entered English, and
it still is in Scotland and Ireland. For unknown reasons, at some time
in the early eighteenth century the English changed their
pronunciation to 'tee'. Virtually every other European language,
however, retains the original pronunciation of 'tay'. 

1.4. How is tea produced?

The first step in tea production is the harvest. Most harvesting is
still done by hand, which (as you can imagine) is very
labor-intensive. Some growers have had success using a machine that
acts much like a vacuum cleaner, sucking the leaves off the branch.
The latter method is used for the cheaper varieties of tea, as it is
not capable of discriminating between the high-quality tip leaves and
the coarser leaves toward the bottom off the branch. 

The harvested leaves can be processed in two ways: CTC or orthodox. 

CTC, which stands for "crush, tear, curl," is used primarily for
lower-quality leaves. CTC processing is done by machine; its name is
actually fairly descriptive. The machines rapidly compress withered
tea leaves, forcing out most of their sap; they then tear the leaves
and curl them tightly into balls that look something like instant
coffee crystals. The leaves are then "fired," or dehydrated. 

Most tea connoisseurs are not very interested in CTC tea, since this
process does not allow for the careful treatment that high-quality
leaves merit. But CTC has an important and legitimate role in the tea
industry: since it is a mechanized process, it allows for the rapid
processing of a high volume of leaves which otherwise would go to
waste. It is also good for producing a strong, robust flavor from
leaves of middling quality; in fact, for many varieties of leaf CTC is
the preferred processing method. 

The orthodox method is a bit more complex, and is usually done mostly
by hand. The process differs for black, green, and oolong teas. The
basic steps in the production of black tea are withering, rolling,
oxiation, and firing. 

First, the leaves are spread out in the open (preferably in the shade)
until they wither and become limp. This is so that they can be rolled
without breaking. 

Rolling is the next step. This is rarely done by hand any more; it is
more often done by machine. Rolling helps mix together a variety of
chemicals found naturally within the leaves, enhancing oxidation.
After rolling, the clumped leaves are broken up and set to oxidize. 

Oxidation, which starts during rolling, is allowed to proceed for an
amount of time that depends on the variety of leaf. Longer oxidation
usually produces a less flavorful but more pungent tea. 

Finally, the leaves are heated, or "fired," to end the oxidation
process and dehydrate them so that they can be stored. 

Oolong is produced just like black tea, except that the leaves are
oxidized for less time. 

Green tea is not oxidized at all. Some varieties are not even
withered, but are simply harvested, fired, and shipped out. 

1.5. What are the best kinds of tea?

1.5.1. How is tea graded?

The first thing to keep in mind is that these are descriptions of the
dry, cured leaf *only*. They have no necessary relation to the aroma,
color, or flavor of the end product. It is possible to get a delicious
cup from ugly, broken leaves; it is possible to get an awful cup from
well-handled, beautiful whole leaves. But since you may have little
information to work with other than the grade, let's look at the various
grades. 

There are different grading schemes for black and green teas. Here are
the basic grades of black tea:

Flowery Orange Pekoe (peck-oh), Orange Pekoe
Pekoe 
Souchong

Broken Orange Pekoe
Broken Orange Pekoe Fannings
Broken Pekoe
Fannings
Dust

'Pekoe' (pronounced 'PECK-oh') is derived from a Chinese word meaning
'white'; this referred to the white hair on the leaf bud. Early Western
merchants used the word to mean that the leaves so graded were
exclusively plucked from the tip of the branch: the leaf bud and the two
leaves below the bud. Its use in India and Sri Lanka broadened to mean
whole leaves of a uniform size, and this is what it generally means now.
This may include leaves picked from lower on the branch. 

'Orange' is variously described as a reference to the Dutch House of
Orange or as a reference to an old Chinese practice of including orange
blossoms as a flavoring agent. Whichever story is true, Orange Pekoe
leaves are higher quality than Pekoe leaves. 'Flowery Orange Pekoe' is
often abbreviated 'FOP'. The term 'flowery' apparently refers to the
leaf bud, since actual tea flowers are not used in the preparation of
the drink. 

'Souchong' means large leaves, generally not from the tip of the branch.
 
Processed tea is sieved to insure that leaves of uniform size are
packaged together. Fannings and dust are bits and pieces of tea leaves
left over from the sievings that separate out whole leaves and large
pieces of leaf. Fannings are slightly larger than dust.  

Loose tea is generally whole leaves. Bagged tea is usually Broken Orange
Pekoe and Broken Pekoe, fannings, and dust. The broken grades are
created by mechanized crushing of the leaves. Broken leaves infuse more
quickly, which is desirable in a tea bag. But because of their larger
surface area, broken leaves also become stale more quickly. 

Since much of the bagged tea sold in the US is marked "Orange Pekoe,"
many people think that Orange Pekoe is a special kind of tea. But it is
not. It is a grading of tea. Most tea "Orange Pekoe" is blended Indian
and Ceylon black tea.

High-quality Darjeelings are often graded according to a complex (one is
tempted to say baroque) system including the following terms:

TGFOP: Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe. 'Tippy', 'Golden', and
'Flowery' are all references to the leaf bud at the tip of the branch.
(Buds have a lighter color than fully formed leaves, hence 'golden'.) 

FTGFOP: Fancy [or Fine] Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe. 'Fancy' is a
term also used in the grading of oolongs. 

SFTGFOP: Super-Fine [Fancy] Tippy Golden Flowery Orange Pekoe. 

When dealing with Darjeelings, you may also see the following terms:

Estate: names the plantation where the leaves were grown. 

Vintage: means that the leaves are the product of one harvest, and are
not blended with any others. 

First Flush: the leaves were plucked in the first growth of the season.
It usually produces a very light, delicate drink. 

Second Flush: second-growth harvest. More robust and complex than first
flush. 

Autumnal Flush: harvest after the rainy season. 

 Green tea:
There is no uniform grading terminology for green tea. Chinese greens
are graded differently depending on where they came from. Japan may have
a standardized grading scheme, but my information is incomplete on
this subject.  

Some terms that you may find with regard to Chinese green teas are:

Gunpowder (pellets, tightly rolled from young leaves and buds)
Young Hyson (young leaves rolled long and thin)
Imperial (pellets loosely rolled from older leaves)
Twankay (unrolled leaves of poor quality)

Gunpowder is rolled very tightly; the leaves look like small pellets.
The Chinese term for this tea, Zhucha, means 'Pearl Tea'. It is grown in
Zhejiang province, near Shanghai. 

 Oolong:
Grading for oolongs goes from Fanciest or Extra Fancy (best) to Common
(worst). Unlike other grading systems, this one actually rates the
quality of the drink you can get from the leaves. The top grades are
Fanciest or Extra Fancy, Fancy, and Extra Choice (or Extra Fine). 

1.5.2. I like the bagged tea I buy at the grocery store. Why all the
fuss about First Flush Vintage Super-Fine Fancy Golden Tippy Flowery
Orange Pekoe Estate tea?

The whole point of drinking tea is to enjoy yourself. If you enjoy the
tea you're drinking right now, then that is all that you or anyone else
needs to know. 

It can be fun, though, to try a fancy tea now and then. If you enjoy tea
in general, why not? This may entail using a teapot and/or strainer (see
below, section 2.2.), since bagged tea does not come in as many
varieties as loose. Who knows? You may eventually find yourself becoming
a connoisseur of special tea, like many other readers of
rec.food.drink.tea.  

If there's a yuppie coffeehouse in your area, you may be able to try a
cup of an expensive tea without making a big investment. Also, many tea
retailers sell sample-size (one- or two-ounce) containers. 

1.5.3. Is there something wrong with tea bags?

Occasionally, tea connoisseurs will express contempt for tea bags, for
the following reasons: 1. Most of the tea that goes into bags is not
very high quality. As noted above, tea bags usually contain broken
grades so that they will infuse quickly. 2. Whole-leaf teas come in a
larger number of varieties; and the most interesting and enjoyable teas
are sometimes not available in bags. 3. Bags are semi-non-biodegradable
additions to the biodegradable tea leaves. 4. Connoisseurs like to have
something to sneer at. 

Seriously, though, most tea drinkers use tea bags some of the time,
simply because it may not be convenient to brew loose leaves (at work,
for example). Use what works for you. 

1.6. Is fancy tea much more expensive than standard commercial tea?

Most good tea is not very expensive; and it may be cheaper than you
think. When you buy tea in bags, most of what you pay for is the process
of putting the teas in the bags, and the brand name advertising. Fancy
tea is generally sold loose, and the price per cup is often lower than
for commercial tea.  

Of course, as with most things, you can spend a lot for tea if you try.
But if price is a concern, start small. Some truly fine teas retail for
less than US$20 per pound, which means less than 10 cents per cup. (I'm
not well informed about tea prices outside the United States.) 

                           **********************
2. Preparing tea
 2.1. Using a tea bag
 2.2. Using a teapot
  2.2.1. Why use cold tap water? Wouldn't hot tap water boil faster?
  2.2.2. Why bother pre-heating the teapot? Is it necessary?
  2.2.3. What kind of teapot should I use?
  2.2.4. Loose tea, tea bags, what's the difference?
  2.2.5. What about tea balls, strainers, etc.?
  2.2.6. How hot should the water be?
  2.2.7. How seriously should I take the time limits?
  2.2.8. Should I put milk in my tea? 
  2.2.9. Should the milk go in the cups before or after the tea?
 2.3. Other ways of preparing tea
  2.3.1. Iced tea
  2.3.2. Masala chai


2.1. Using a tea bag

This is the most straightforward method. Place the bag in your cup and
pour boiling water over it. Remove the bag when it has steeped long
enough. 

Oddly enough, most restaurants in the United States are incapable of
performing this simple procedure. As many readers of rec.food.drink.tea
will testify, asking for tea in a restaurant usually gets one a cup of
tepid water with a bargain-basement tea bag floating listlessly in it
like a dead fish. 

2.2. Using a teapot. First, a general guide; details below. 

A) Start with fresh, cold water. Tap water is generally acceptable; if
your tap water has a noticeable taste, you may want to use filtered or
bottled water. Put the water in a kettle to boil. 

B) Prepare a teapot: heat it by filling it (or rinsing it) with hot
water. 

C) Shortly before the water in the kettle boils, empty out the teapot
and add the tea leaves. Tea authorities cannot seem to agree on how much
is appropriate; recommendations run from one teaspoon per 5.5 ounces of
water to one teaspoon per 16 ounces of water. Experiment and decide on
the amount that suits you best. 
   You may want to put the leaves loose in the pot, or use a strainer,
sock, or tea ball. You can, of course, also use tea bags in a pot. If
you do, place the bags on the bottom of the pot so that they will be
struck by the boiling water as it falls on them. 

D) Bring the teapot to the kettle and add the water. If you are drinking
black or oolong, add the water just as it reaches a full boil. You may
wish to do the same with green tea; but many writers recommend allowing
the water to cool for a minute or two to avoid "cooking" the leaves,
especially if the tea is high-quality (e.g. Japanese Gyokuro). 

E) Allow the tea to infuse for three to five minutes. Be careful not to
let the tea stand for too long. Different teas take different infusion
times. See below.  

F) During the infusion, give the teapot a good shake or stir to let the
leaves circulate. After they settle, pour the tea. Some authorities
recommend using cups that have been pre-heated with hot water. This is
primarily important if you are using very thin porcelain that could be
cracked by the sudden addition of very hot tea. 

G) Add whatever accessories you prefer: milk, sugar, honey, lemon, etc.
Cream is too heavy and should be avoided. There is considerable debate
about whether to put milk in the cups before you add the tea or
afterwards. See below. 

Enjoy!

2.2.1. Why use cold tap water? Wouldn't hot tap water boil faster?

Household water heaters heat water for washing, not for drinking.
Water out of the hot tap generally has health-threatening levels of
heavy metals (such as lead), as well as an off taste. You should
consider this water unfit for human consumption. 

Incidentally, if you live in the United States in a house whose plumbing
system  was constructed between the 1930s and the late 1970s, it's a
good idea to let the cold tap run at full for about a minute before
using it. This will help flush out heavy metals that may have collected
in the water as it sat in the plumbing system. This goes for all tap
water consumption, of course, not just for tea. 

Some tea drinkers start with filtered water, particularly in areas
with unpleasant or unhealthy tap water. Although this can improve
the quality of the final product, some filtration systems have an
annoying disadvantage. Systems that filter the water and then store
it in a reservoir (such as the popular Brita system) often yield
de-oxygenated water, which is not very good for tea. The answer to
this problem is to use water immediately after it has been filtered, 
or to re-oxygenate the water by pouring it vigorously between two 
glasses about five or six times. 

2.2.2. Why bother pre-heating the teapot? Is it necessary?

It's not absolutely necessary, but it does keep the infusion from
cooling off too quickly. Tea experts believe that this helps preserve
some of the more subtle components of a fine cup of tea. Some people
also like to place a tea cozy over the pot while the tea infuses, for
the same reason. Note that green and oolong teas often benefit from
slightly cooler water than black tea, so using a cozy during infusion
is not recommended for these varieties.  

2.2.3. What kind of teapot should I use?

There are many different kinds of teapots, all with their own
particular good points and bad points. Ceramic pots are traditional
throughout most of Asia; most retain heat well (depending on the
thickness of the ceramic) and many are attractively decorated. But,
like all ceramics, they can chip and break. 

Thick glass pots have all the advantages (and disadvantages) of
ceramics, with the important difference that you can watch the tea
infuse. 

Some people like metal pots. Their main disadvantage is that they
conduct heat away from the infusion more rapidly than do ceramics. 
Some are also rumored to give an off taste to the drink. 

2.2.4. Loose tea, tea bags, what's the difference?

High-quality tea is usually sold as loose tea. In addition, tea in bags
goes stale much more quickly because of its greater surface area (and
hence greater exposure to atmospheric oxygen); and it tends to pick up
odors and flavors from surrounding foods (or, I'm told, from the box
it's in). 
   Still, bags can be very convenient, especially if you are preparing
tea away from home. It may be a good idea to store bagged tea in a
tightly closed metal or opaque glass container to help keep it fresh
longer. 

2.2.5. What about tea balls, strainers, etc.?

There are many different options for dealing with loose leaves. 

A) Leaves loose in the pot.
 Advantages: The leaves have maximum freedom to uncurl and circulate in
the water, which makes for stronger and more flavorful tea.
Disadvantages:  You have to figure out some way to get the tea off the
leaves once it has infused. Also, you have to wash the leaves out of the
pot.
 If you use loose leaves and are brewing one cup, you can pour the tea
through a strainer, which will catch any leaves that escape the pot. If
you are brewing more than one cup, you can try any of the following:
 --Warm two pots and pour the brewed tea into the second pot. You may
want to place a tea cozy over the pot to keep the remaining tea hot. 
 --Pour the brewed tea into a vacuum container.

B) The tea ball. 
 Most tea balls are made of aluminum with small holes for water
circulation. Advantage: Easy to remove and clean. Very few leaves
escape. Disadvantages: often, there is insufficient space for the leaves
to expand. Also, the water cannot circulate properly around the leaves. 

C) The stainless-steel mesh infuser. 
 This is, as the name implies, made of stainless-steel mesh. Advantages:
better circulation than an aluminum ball. Easy to remove and clean.
Disadvantages: the leaves are still more restricted than they would be
loose. 
 Infusers also come in plastic mesh and gold mesh. Some are sized to fit
into a teacup; some, to fit a pot. 

D) The basket filter. 
 This is a metal, plastic, or ceramic basket to hold the leaves. (Some
teapots are specially constructed to hold a ceramic filter.) Advantages:
easy to remove and clean. The leaves can circulate almost as freely as
if they were loose. Disadvantages: Slight additional expense. Not all
baskets fit all teapots. 

E) The tea sock.
 A fabric enclosure for the leaves. Advantages: Easy to remove, fairly
unrestrictive of the expanding leaves. Disadvantages: Annoying to clean.
It may retain odors from previous batches. 

F) The paper filter. 
 This is like a coffee filter and fits into a plastic holder.
Advantages: easy to remove and discard. Disadvantages: The paper is
disposable, which may have unwanted environmental consequences.  

G) The plunger pot. 
 Similar to the melior pot used for brewing coffee, the plunger pushes
the leaves to the bottom of the pot and holds them there. Advantages:
completely free circulation of the leaves. Disadvantages: the leaves
have not actually been removed from the liquor, so they continue to
infuse. Also, you have to wash the leaves out of the pot just as with
loose leaves. 

H) Brewing machines.
 One can also brew tea in a coffee maker, in much the same way that
one brews coffee. A machine expressly designed to brew tea automatically
has also recently been introduced to the marketplace. The biggest
worry most tea drinkers have about these methods is that they heat the
water somewhat short of the boiling point. While this is a good way to
brew coffee, it is less than ideal for most kinds of tea. 

2.2.6. How hot should the water be?

Black and oolong tea should be infused in water that has just
achieved a vigorous boil. As mentioned above, green teas are better
with water that has cooled off slightly from the boiling point.  

With green and oolong teas, which are rather delicate, you must avoid
"cooking" the leaves. Do not place a tea cozy on the pot during the
infusion, as it keeps too much heat in the pot. Using the cozy to keep
tea warm after it has finished infusing is fine. Some authorities even
suggest leaving the lid off the teapot when infusing green tea, to let
some heat escape. 

Incidentally, the longer water boils, the more oxygen it loses.
Overboiled  water tastes "flat," and this can affect the taste of the
tea. 

2.2.7. How seriously should I take the time limits?

Pretty seriously. If you've ever tasted oversteeped tea, you know that
it is bitter and astringent--an all-around nasty experience. There is
probably a little margin for error, but if you put the tea on to
infuse and forget about it for half an hour, start over again. 

Three to five minutes is fine for most varieties. Oolong, which is
always large leaves, requires a long steeping time: usually between five
and six minutes. Darjeeling, interestingly enough, is often best with a
steeping time between 90 seconds and three minutes. (Since it tends
toward astringency, the short steeping time helps keep the balance of
flavors right. This is especially true of first flush Darjeeling.) 

2.2.8. Should I put milk in my tea? 

If you like. 

The classic additions to tea are:

honey;     milk;     sugar;     lemon; 
milk and sugar;     lemon and sugar;    lemon and honey.

-- Cream is too heavy and should be avoided in favor of milk. 

-- Like cream, whole homogenized milk is too heavy and strong tasting
for most people.  (The custom of adding milk to tea began before the
invention of homogenization.) Low-fat or skim milk seems to work
best. As always, though, this is just advice, not divine command. If
you like cream or whole milk in your tea, that's reason enough to use
them.

-- Milk and honey don't seem to go very well together. 

-- Don't add milk and lemon. The acidic lemon juice instantly curdles
the milk. 

In any case, you should NOT add anything to green or oolong tea; they
are meant to be drunk straight. 

2.2.9. Should the milk go in the cups before or after the tea?

This question is a matter of great contention and bitter disagreement in
Great Britain. Some people seem to approach it more fervently than they
do matters of theology.  

There is very little common ground in this debate. Perhaps the only
thing both camps agree on is that if you use thin porcelain, adding the
milk first helps prevent the hot tea from cracking the cup. There is
some talk of "scalding" the milk, but some people say that milk-first
scalds the milk; others, that tea-first scalds the milk. There is also
disagreement about whether scalding the milk is good or bad; some say it
improves the flavor, others that it ruins the milk.  

Then there are those of us who consider the whole dispute somewhat akin
to Scholastic debates about angels dancing on pinheads. One way to avoid
the issue is to eschew milk completely. Still, I must admit that some
tea (especially breakfast tea) takes very well to a bit of milk. 

2.3. Other ways of preparing tea

2.3.1. Iced tea

Iced tea is a staple of American Southern life; it is very popular
throughout much of the United States, enough so that it is now being
marketed in cans and bottles. 

Good iced tea uses a decent brand of black tea which is then cooled
(either in a refrigerator or by being poured over ice). Some people add
sugar; others would rather drink muddy water than sugared iced tea. The
sweetened vs. non-sweetened divide is probably the American South's
version of the milk-first vs. tea-first rift among Brits. Some people
also like to add lemon. 

Iced tea is very easy to make. Infuse a strong concentrate of tea (i.e.
much less water than one would use for that amount of leaves) and add it
to cold water to the right proportions. The better the quality of the
tea, the better the iced tea will taste. It's probably a good idea to
use a strong-tasting tea that can stand up to the cold. Assam, for
example, makes terrific iced tea. 

2.3.2. Masala chai

Masala chai, or spiced tea, hails from the Indian subcontinent. There
are almost as many recipes for masala chai as there are drinkers of it.
The following recipe is not claimed to be definitive; it just happens
to be my favorite. Adjust to your own specifications. 

Makes: 2 large cups

1.5 cups (570 ml) water
6-8 green cardamom pods
5-6 whole black peppercorns
1-2 slices fresh ginger, peeled and diced
1 stick cinnamon, 1-2 inches long
1-2 cloves
2/3 cup (175 ml) milk
4 tsp sugar
2-3 tsp loose black tea (preferably India or Ceylon)

Put the water in a saucepan, add the spices, and bring to a boil. 
Turn down the heat and let simmer for 5 to 10 minutes. Add milk
and sugar and bring to a boil (or heavy simmer). Add tea, turn
off the heat, and let infuse for two to three minutes. Strain into
two cups and serve hot. 

                           **********************

3. Descriptions of popular teas
 3.1. Black teas 
  3.1.1. Assam (Indian) 
  3.1.2. Ceylon (Sri Lankan) 
  3.1.3. Darjeeling (Indian) 
  3.1.4. Keemun (Chinese) 
  3.1.5. Lapsang Souchong (Chinese) 
  3.1.6. Nilgiri (Indian) 
  3.1.7. Sikkim (Indian) 
  3.1.8. Yunnan (Chinese) 
 3.2. Popular blends 
  3.2.1. English Breakfast 
  3.2.2. Irish Breakfast 
  3.2.3. Russian Caravan 
 3.3. Flavored tea 
  3.3.1. Jasmine (Chinese) 
  3.3.2. Earl Grey
  3.3.3. Lapsang Souchong 
  3.3.4. Flavored teas
 3.4. Oolong 
  3.4.1. Formosa Oolong 
  3.4.2. Ti Kuan Yin (or Tai Guan-Yin) (Mainland Chinese) 
  3.4.3. Pu-erh
 3.5. Green tea 
  3.5.1. Gyokuro (Japanese)
  3.5.2. Spider Leg (Japanese)
  3.5.3. Mattcha, Tencha (Japanese)
  3.5.4. Sencha, Bancha, Hojicha (Japanese)
  3.5.5. Genmaicha (Japanese)
  3.5.6. Longjing (Chinese)
  3.5.7. Gunpowder (Chinese)
  3.5.8. Pouchong (Chinese)
  3.5.9. White tea (Chinese)

There are hundreds, perhaps thousands, of different teas. I only list
the better-known teas that are available in the West. I am sure that I
have left out your favorite tea, and I apologize in advance. 

3.1. Black teas

Black tea is produced by allowing harvested leaf to wither and oxidize
for several hours before the process is halted by firing (i.e. heating
and drying out) the leaf. 

3.1.1. Assam (Indian) produces a dark, orange-red liquor. It has a
distinctive, "malty" flavor. It is a common component of high-quality
blends, but is well worth seeking out unblended. Assam is reliably
strong, full-bodied tea; many Irish Breakfast blends are entirely Assam.

3.1.2. Ceylon (Sri Lankan). There are several varieties of Ceylon tea,
but most of the Sri Lankan harvest goes into blends. Commercial blends
advertised as "Orange Pekoe" are usually blends of Indian and Ceylon.
This is probably closest to what most Westerners think of when they
think of tea: reddish-brown liquor; brisk, full flavor. 

3.1.3. Darjeeling (Indian) is the most expensive, sought-after black
tea. See section 1.4.1 for information on the grading system applied to
Darjeelings. Unlike most other teas, many Darjeelings are sold under the
name of the plantation where they were grown. 
    Fine Darjeelings usually have a lighter liquor than other black
teas, from a light reddish color to a bright gold. Astringency is
usually quite pronounced, and the aroma and flavor hint of almonds and
wildflowers. 

3.1.4. Keemun (Chinese) is the foundation of many English Breakfast
blends. (Some English Breakfasts are all Keemun.) Red liquor with a
subtle combination of flavors; the aroma is rich and fruity, sometimes
suggesting apple. Keemun is relatively understated in comparison to
varieties such as Assam or Ceylon. 

3.1.5. Lapsang Souchong (Chinese). This tea is fired over smoking pine
needles, which produces a striking smoky odor and flavor. The best
varieties are not overwhelmed by the smoke, but retain subtlety and a
mix of other flavors. Lapsang Souchong is found in many Russian Caravan
blends. 

3.1.6. Nilgiri (Indian). Nilgiri, Darjeeling, and Assam are the three
Indian teas which the Indian Tea Board promotes as "self-drinkers," i.e.
teas worth drinking unblended. Unfortunately, Nilgiri is not as
distinctive or interesting as the other two. It is very much like Ceylon
tea. Like Ceylon, much of the Nilgiri harvest ends up in blends. 

3.1.7. Sikkim (Indian) comes from a tea-growing area very near
Darjeeling. It combines Darjeeling's delicate flavor and light body
with Assam's maltiness. Although it is an excellent tea, it is not
very well known (yet) and thus not quite as expensive as Darjeeling.

3.1.8. Yunnan (Chinese) produces a brown liquor with a subtle, earthy
flavor. Inexpensive Yunnan is not very exciting, but I am told that the
higher quality harvests are wonderful.  

3.2. Popular blends

3.2.1. English Breakfast. The exact blend depends on the dealer. Some
English Breakfasts are blends of India and Ceylon teas; others, mostly
or entirely Keemun. 

3.2.2. Irish Breakfast is usually mostly Assam. Strong!

3.2.3. Russian Caravan harks back to the days when tea was hauled to
Russia from China on camelback. It often contains a bit of smoky
Lapsang Souchong, though its base is typically Keemun. Some also
contain oolong.

3.3. Scented/Flavored tea (includes both green and black teas)

3.3.1. Jasmine (Chinese, green): logically enough, this tea is scented
with jasmine flowers. Some is made from Pouchong tea, but most is based
on completely unfermented green. The highest quality is called Yin Hao.
Jasmine tea ranges from abysmal stuff, where the flowers are used to
mask the poor quality of the tea, to truly remarkable (and remarkably
costly) delicacies. 

3.3.2. Earl Grey (black): this well-known British tea is flavored
with oil of bergamot. Bergamot is an inedible citrus fruit shaped
like a pear; the oil is pressed out of its rind and sprayed on a
blend of black teas. Some Earl Greys are quite good; others,
unfortunately, suffer from a heavy hand with the bergamot. 

3.3.3. Lapsang Souchong. See above, section 3.1.5. 

3.3.4. Flavored teas. There are many different flavorings (too many to
list) that can be added to tea. The most popular combination is probably
orange and cloves.  

3.4. Oolong

Oolong is oxidized, but not for as long as black tea. It is in a sense
"intermediate" between green and black, but good oolong should be judged
on its own terms, and need not be compared to other kinds of tea. A fine
oolong has an intense floral aroma and a remarkable peachy flavor.
Liquor color ranges all over the spectrum, from a pale jade green to
pink to deep gold. 

3.4.1. Formosa Oolongs have a reputation as the finest oolongs. They are
called the "Champagne of Teas," and rightly so in most cases. There are
many varieties, but most of the ones commercially available in the West
are not identified other than as Formosa Oolong. Bao Jong is one of the
few special varieties I have been able to find; it produces a very light
green liquor with an odor and flavor reminiscent of lilacs. 

3.4.2. Ti Kuan Yin (or Tai Guan-Yin) (Mainland Chinese) is a truly
magnificent oolong, and is as good as or better than most of the Formosa
Oolongs I have tried. Its color is pink, and its peachy flavor is strong
and rich. Retail price ranges from US$20/pound to a jaw-dropping
US$200/pound. 

3.4.3 Pu-erh (Mainland China, Yunnan) is an unusual large-leafed
oolong with a characteristic earthy flavour.  The colour is very dark,
almost red. It is marketed in bulk as Pu-erh or shaped into cakes as
Pu'er Cake Tea. It is renowned for its alleged medicinal effects on
the digestive tract. Some varieties are cultivated to develop a thin
layer of mold on the leaves. (Although this is unusual for most tea,
skittish Western tea drinkers ought to keep in mind that mold is also
a key ingredient in widely consumed Western products such as cheese.)

3.5. Green tea

There are many varieties of green tea, most of which are little-known
outside Asia. This list is only a tiny fraction of the varieties of
green tea drunk throughout China, Japan, and India. 

Green tea is not oxidized at all; the freshly harvested leaves are
rolled and fired immediately. As a result, green tea usually has more of
an herbaceous or vegetative quality than blacks or oolongs. Most greens
produce a greenish-gold liquor. People who were raised on black tea
often find green an acquired taste, but it is worth acquiring. 

3.5.1. Gyokuro is the most highly valued Japanese tea. Also known as
"Pearl Dew," it is a surprisingly rich, herbaceous tea. 

3.5.2. Spider Leg is a "basket-fired" variety of Gyokuro. As the name
implies, it is fired in bamboo baskets. The leaves come out long and
thin, hence the name Spider Leg. 

3.5.3. Mattcha (Japanese) is the powdered tea used in the famed Tea
Ceremony. It is also called Tencha (before it is powdered).

3.5.4. Sencha is a generic Japanese name for green tea; it is used for
high-range tea other than Gyokuro. Bancha refers to late-harvested teas.
Roasted tea is called Hojicha. 

3.5.5. Genmaicha is Japanese green tea blended with toasted rice. 

3.5.6. Longjing, Lung Ching, or Dragon Well: a famous Chinese tea with a
complex, sweet flavor. 

3.5.7. Gunpowder (Chinese) is a strong, earthy green. 

3.5.8. Pouchong (Chinese) is allowed to wither before firing; hence it
is just shy of being oolong. Pouchong is used as the base for some very
good Jasmine tea. 

3.5.9. White tea (Chinese) is made up entirely of buds. Its flavor is
very delicate and subtle. Also, in the bad old days, one might be
offered "white tea" in very poor Chinese homes: a cup of boiled water. 

                           **********************
4. Miscellany
 4.1. How should I store tea?
 4.2. What is the best way to clean pots and cups?
 4.3. What is served at a British afternoon tea?
 4.4. Tea ceremonies 
  4.4.1. The Japanese Tea Ceremony
  4.4.2. The *gongfu* method
 4.5. Tea, caffeine, and health
  4.5.1. What is caffeine?
  4.5.2. What are caffeine's effects on the body?
  4.5.3. Should I worry about caffeine addiction? What are its effects?
  4.5.4. Can I become addicted to tea?
  4.5.5. How much caffeine does tea have in it? 
  4.5.6. Are there other stimulants in tea?
  4.5.7. Should I stop drinking tea to avoid addiction?
  4.5.8. How can I get rid of a caffeine habit?
 4.6. Where can I get British tea in the United States?
 4.7. Professional tasters' lexicon

4.1. How should I store tea?

Tea should be stored in an airtight, opaque container in a cool, dry
place. Many tea retailers sell tea in metal tins that close tightly,
which seems optimal. Clear glass jars are acceptable only if you can
keep them in a closed cupboard away from light. If you reuse containers,
avoid using materials that retain odors, as the tea will pick them up. 

The refrigerator is NOT a good place. The cold encourages water
condensation, which can ruin the tea. You can freeze tea for long-term
storage if you tightly seal your container and wrap it in plastic. 
Before you open a container of frozen tea, let it warm to room 
temperature in order to avoid contaminating the tea with condensation. 
(You may also want to do this on a dry day.)

4.2. What is the best way to clean pots and cups?

Even if you rinse your pots and cups after every use, which is
advisable, they will eventually build up stains. The simplest way to rid
yourself of stains is to brush them with a soft kitchen brush or
toothbrush and rinse with cold water. Tough stains can be
softened by putting two teaspoons of baking soda (sodium bicarbonate)
into the pot and filling it with boiling water. Let sit for two hours,
empty, brush, and rinse.  

Do not use soap or detergent on tea equipment. The drink will pick up an
off flavor. 

4.3. What is served at a British afternoon tea?

That depends on what kind of tea it is. Traditionally, the upper
classes serve a "low" or "afternoon" tea around 4:00 PM, at which one
might find crustless sandwiches, biscuits, and cake. Middle and lower
classes have a "high" tea later in the day, at 5:00 or 6:00. It is a
more substantial meal -- essentially, it's dinner -- which includes
bread, meats, scones, and cake. 

Apparently, many Americans have the impression that "high tea" is the
meal served by "high-class" people. Actually, the names derive from
the height of the tables on which the meals are served. Low tea is
served on tables which in the United States would be called "coffee
tables." High tea is served on the dinner table. 


4.4. Tea ceremonies

4.4.1. The Japanese Tea Ceremony

*Cha-no-yu*, or "hot water for tea," is a ceremony of great antiquity
and depth. Like many of the ancient Japanese arts, it is viewed as a
potential means of Enlightenment; in other words, it is a central part
of *chado*, or the Way of Tea. It originated in China, where its
practice eventually died out; but combined with elements of Zen, it
remains a fascinating part of Japanese culture. 

There are many different versions of the Tea Ceremony, varying according
to one's teacher and his or her training. The features common to most
versions are the following:

A) The ceremony always involves a host and several guests (but only a
few). It can be held in a screened-off alcove of a main room, but those
who can afford it build a teahouse and garden. 

B) The guests wait in a special waiting room until summoned by the host.
They walk through the garden to the teahouse, which traditionally is
elevated and has a three-foot-tall door (so that guests must crawl to
enter the building). 

C) The host ceremonially decorates the teahouse with screens and a 
scroll or flowers. 

D) Guests are served a small meal including a sweet. 

E) The host brings in the tea utensils and begins preparing the tea. The
water is boiled and the tea bowl and whisk are heated. The powdered tea
is placed in a bowl and whisked to a thick consistency. After the guests
drink the bitter tea, the host cleans the utensils and the guests (more
or less ritually) examine and discuss the utensils. 

The tea ceremony can last as long as four hours. The use of whisked
powdered tea indicates the antiquity of the ritual. This method of
preparing tea dates from the time of China's Sung dynasty, which lasted
from the 900s to the 1200s. 

Some commentators complain that the contemporary emphasis is often on
ritual rather than on aesthetic or spiritual experience. Others find the
ceremony tedious beyond description, and the tea ghastly and barely
drinkable. At least one author also claims that most current students of
the tea ceremony are more interested in matrimony than Enlightenment. 
    But impressions differ. Other participants assert that if one
approaches the ceremony in the right frame of mind, it can be a very
impressive, even Enlightening, experience. 

4.4.2. The *gongfu* method

The Japanese tea ceremony is a metaphysical/religious ritual centered
around tea. There is nothing quite comparable in modern China (though,
as noted above, the Japanese ceremony originated in ancient China).  

The Chinese do, however, have a special method for brewing tea, which
can produce remarkable results. It is called the *gongfu* method.
*Gongfu* means something like "skill and care." It is the root of the
term often used for Chinese black teas, "Congou." (As "Kung Fu," it is
also the term often used in the West for Chinese martial arts, which are
more properly known as *Wu shu*. But I digress...)

The *gongfu* method is typically used for oolong and green teas. The
best results are with oolong. The typical method uses a very small
teapot, preferably a Yixing teapot, and small thimble-sized cups. If you
do not have a *gongfu* tea set, you can approximate the method with an
ordinary teapot, though the result may not be quite as good. 

Yixing teapots are made of a sandy clay found near the town of Yixing in
Jiangsu province. The porous interior is seasoned by repeated infusions
of tea leaves, and does not need to be cleaned. Yixing teapots are
available from several mail-order dealers in the US. 

The method is essentially a series of brief infusions. The tiny pot is
half to three-quarters filled with leaves. The host fills the pot with
boiling water and immediately drains it to rinse the leaves. Then, the
first infusion: the pot is filled with boiling water and the leaves
infuse for less than a minute. (One source says "four to five slow
breaths.") This infusion has the strongest aroma. Some methods use two
sets of cups: the tea is poured into the first cup and then poured from
that cup into the second cup. One then smells the aroma left behind in
the first cup, and drinks from the second cup. 

The second and third infusions each take approximately the same time as
the first and produce less aroma but more flavor. Some teas can take
four to five infusions, or more. 

4.5. Tea, caffeine, and health

4.5.1. What is caffeine?

Caffeine is a stimulant drug found in tea as well as in many other
natural substances. Coffee is better known as a dietary source of
caffeine (and the source of the name 'caffeine'), but tea contains a
significant amount of the drug. 

Other natural sources of caffeine are chocolate and yerba mate', which
is used as an herbal drink in parts of South America. Caffeine is also
added to many foods and drugs, including soft drinks and pain relievers
such as Excedrin.  

4.5.2. What are caffeine's effects on the body?

Since it is a stimulant, caffeine increases alertness and quickness of
response, and often briefly improves mood. It is a mild diuretic. In
large doses, it can produce jitters, anxiety, and insomnia. As with any
stimulant, the period of enhanced alertness and heightened mood is
generally followed by a period of depressed mood and ability. 

Caffeine is also an addictive drug if taken regularly. Caffeine
addiction is probably the most common drug addiction in the world, with
nicotine addiction a close second. 

4.5.3. Should I worry about caffeine addiction? What are its effects?

Caffeine addiction is not as serious as most drug addictions; it is
certainly less serious than nicotine addiction. It is also easier to
shake than most other addictions. 

Still, caffeine addiction can be serious for some people. Since its
effects are subtle and socially accepted, caffeine addiction can be an
unnoticed and difficult to diagnose source of health problems. Probably
the most common unwanted side effect of addiction is the headache that
marks the beginning of withdrawal. (This headache is caused by the
dilation of blood vessels in the head that were constricted by the
consumption of caffeine.) Other symptoms of withdrawal, usually found in
frequent and heavy users of caffeine, are lethargy, irritability, and
constipation. 

4.5.4. Can I become addicted to tea?

Addiction to tea is less common than addiction to coffee, because tea
has less caffeine than coffee. But if you drink enough tea on a regular
basis, you can become addicted. The most reliable sign that you are
addicted to tea is a recurring headache that seems to have no cause and
can be relieved by drinking tea or another caffeinated beverage (or by
taking Excedrin, which contains caffeine). 

4.5.5. How much caffeine does tea have in it? Does green tea have more
or less caffeine than black tea?

The amount of caffeine in a cup of tea varies tremendously, depending on
the variety of tea and the brewing time. There is a great deal of
contention about the caffeine content of various kinds of tea. Most
people firmly hold the opinion that green tea has less caffeine than
black, but a professional tea chemist has informed me that this is not
true. Contrary to popular belief, green tea is likely to have just as
much caffeine as black; and there is no reliable way of knowing in
advance just how much caffeine is in your cup. 

I can report that the most caffeinated tea I have ever had was green.
Recently, I ordered a small pot of Yin Hao jasmine at a local
coffeehouse, unaware that this delightful, high-quality delicacy was
eye-popping, jaw-clenching rocket fuel. After two small cups, my hands
were trembling and I could barely sit still. In fact, that same
afternoon, I sat down and wrote this entire document in twenty-five
minutes. 

[I confess: The last sentence is a joke. But everything else in
the preceding paragraph is absolutely true.] 

The only way to know for sure how much caffeine you are drinking is to
have each individual cup tested in a laboratory, which is not terribly
practical if you intend to drink it. My advice is to pay attention to
the tea you drink and judge it by how it makes you feel. There may be
no better way to decide how to regulate your intake. 

4.5.6. Are there other stimulants in tea?

Yes. Tea also contains theobromine and theophylline, both of which are
chemically related to caffeine. Their effects on the body are similar to
those of caffeine (though a bit milder). 

4.5.7. Should I stop drinking tea to avoid addiction?

God forbid! If you are worried about addiction, the best thing to do is
to cut down gradually on the amount of caffeine you consume. If you also
drink coffee and caffeinated soft drinks or take medication containing
caffeine, eliminating these from your diet will make it easier for you
to drink tea without fear of serious addiction.  

4.5.8. How can I get rid of a caffeine habit?

If you have a clear case of addiction that is interfering with your
sense of well-being, you should try to quit. Breaking a caffeine
addiction is, mercifully, relatively easy to do. Andrew Weil (*Natural
Health, Natural Medicine*) offers the following advice for those who
want to try to kick the habit "cold turkey":

"Do not attempt it unless you have three days with no responsibilities
and no demands on your time and energy. Arrange for ways to keep
yourself distracted and comfortable. Prepare to be without energy and to
have a headache for forty-eight to seventy-two hours. Take nothing with
caffeine."

Some people have lingering withdrawal symptoms for two or more weeks
after ceasing intake. 

If you are reluctant to kick the habit all at once, you may want to try
gradually easing yourself off caffeinated drinks. This works well for
some people and poorly for others. 

4.6. Where can I get British tea in the United States?

Homesick Brits can buy a few British household brands by mail order. The
Mark T. Wendell company sells Ty-Phoo and PG Tips. 
    Mark T. Wendell
    P.O. Box 1312
    West Concord, MA  01742

4.7. Professional tasters' lexicon

This is from James Norwood Pratt, *Tea Lover's Treasury*. 

Dry Leaf:

Bloom: sheen or luster on black leaf
Bold: large leaf or sometimes pieces of leaf too big for a grade,
outsized
Chesty: resinous odor/taste imparted by uncured wood in tea chest
Common: poor quality
Dull: leaf without sheen, i.e., "bloom"
Flaky: poorly made leaf that's flat and easily broken; nonpejoratively,
small grades
Shotty: well-made Gunpowder; sometimes also applied to Souchong
Tippy: generous amounts of white or golden tip, i.e., budding leaf
Well-twisted: fully withered, tightly rolled leaf
Wiry: stylish, thin whole leaves; quite often OP grade

Infusion:

Agony of the leaves: unfolding of the leaves in boiling water

Tea Liquor:

Bakey: unpleasant taste caused by firing leaf at too high a temperature;
not as strong as "burnt"
Biscuity: pleasant characteristic often associated with Assam teas
Bite: not a taste but the astringent puckeriness that gives Black Tea
its refreshing quality
Body: viscosity, the strength of the liquor combined with its weight on
the tongue; body may be "full," "light," etc.
Brassy: unpleasant tang caused by under-withering
Bright: sparkling liquor characteristic of all fine teas; also describes
taste opposite of "dull"
Brisk: lively, not flat
Complex: the harmonious melange of various flavors characteristic of the
very finest teas
Dull: muddy looking liquor, the opposite of "bright"; "flat" tasting
Flat: soft, rather flabby-bodied tea lacking "bite" and "briskness"
Fruity: piquant quality characteristic of good Oolongs, some Keemuns,
etc. 
Gone off: tea that's been spoiled by improper storage or packing or is
simply past its prime and stale
Malty: a subtle underlying flavor often characteristic of Assam
Peak: the high point of the tasting experience when, some instants after
the liquor enters the mouth, its body, flavor, and astringency make
themselves fully felt. Greens and Oolongs do not peak but stand
immediately and fully revealed. 
Pointy: a liquor is said to "have point" if it shows some desirable
property--for example, briskness or fine fragrance
Pungent: astringent; what gives a tea its bite
Self-drinking: any tea with sufficient aroma, flavor, body, and color to
stand alone and in no need of blending for improvement
Stewed or stewy: poorly fired tea giving soft liquor without "point";
also used of tea that's brewed too long and has become bitter
Tarry: smoky flavor associated with Lapsang Souchong
Thin: lacking body and/or color
Weedy: may be applied to thin, cabbagy Black Teas; nonpejoratively, a
Green Tea may be called weedy if it has a not-unpleasant vegetative
aroma and flavor, varying from simple "herbaceousness" to scents of
new-mown hay
Winey: usually descriptive of a mellow quality fine Darjeelings or
Keemuns acquire with six months to a year or more of age; more rarely
used to describe overfermented tea

                           **********************
About the author: My name is Christopher Roberson (robchr@umich.edu),
and I am a graduate student in philosophy at the University  of
Michigan. I have never been a tea trader, chemist, or other kind of
authority on tea. My knowledge of tea comes from reading about it
and, of course, drinking it. 

Acknowledgements

Thanks to the following people for help, information, suggestions, and
encouragement:

Rob Beauchamp, Andreas Bogk, James Campbell, Noah Coccaro, D.
Dalrymple, Bruce De Vries, Michelle Dick, R. N. Dominick, Robert
Dunbar, Malcolm Dunn, Tom Frenkel, John L. Luigi Giasi, Matthew E.
Harbowy, Duane Healing, Kris Heidenstrom, Jon Hodapp, Charles Hoot,
Robert H. Klein, Steven Leung, Rick Mendosa, Vicki Jean Merriman,
Marlene Mills, Mike Newton (Fig), Jeremy Rule, Nobuo Sakakura, 
Roland Saldanha, Howard Sinberg, Slacker, Doug Smith, Mr D.F. Steele,
Stephan Schulz, Gene Wayne, Wembley, Laura Whaples, Stephen Ray
Williams.  Special thanks to Kai Birger Nielsen, the keeper of the
tea page. 
