Subject: rec.birds Monthly Optics for Birding FAQ
Supersedes: <optics_faq_822921681@aib.com>
Date: 22 Mar 1996 08:03:20 -0500
Summary: This posting contains a list of Frequently Asked Questions
. and other useful information about optics for birding

Posting-frequency: monthly

                           Optics for Birding FAQ

                         Frequently Asked Questions
                                    about
                             Optics for Birding

                               March 22, 1996

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Copyright  1992, 1993, 1994, 1995, 1996 by Edmund R. Matthews. Permission
is granted to make single fair use copies for personal use. Any other uses
or reproduction of the material in this document is forbidden without
express written consent from the author.

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Introduction

This is the list of Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) about optics for
birding. This FAQ started rather modestly as a monthly posting to the
Internet news group rec.birds. Over time and with the recent explosion of
the Internet, the FAQ has evolved into a full-blown, multi-document, HTML
Web Page.

If you are reading this as a text file and not as an HTML document, you
should be aware that this is merely a (potentially out-of-date) plain-text
copy of the HTML document http://www.aib.com/~edm/opt_faq.html. If the date
on the document you are reading is more than a month old, you should get a
new copy.

I post a plain-text copy of the HTML document semi-regularly to the Internet
news groups news.answers, rec.answers, rec.birds, and the BIRDCHAT mailing
list.

To get the most recent plain-text copy, you can FTP a copy from the archive
at rtfm.mit.edu (18.181.0.24). The FAQ is in
/pub/usenet/news.answers/birds-faq/optics. If you cannot FTP, send email to
mail-server@rtfm.mit.edu with the following message:

send usenet/news.answers/birds-faq/optics

If, for some reason, you still cannot get a recent copy, send me e-mail and
I will generate you a copy. Generating textual copies of the HTML document
is not a problem (it takes seconds), so feel free to ask.

The purpose of this FAQ is to educate readers so that they are armed to
select the best optical equipment for their budget and purpose. As a
secondary matter only, I provide summaries of published reviews. If you do
not see your favorite optics mentioned, I apologize, but that is not my
primary mission.

I limit information about specific brands and models of optical equipment to
published reviews that are more or less objective. While I welcome comments
from readers about their favorite equipment, I do not publish owner
testimonials as a matter of policy.

I remove information about various brands once that information is more than
3 years old. If you need the old information, I have all the old FAQs
archived here.

Send any comments, suggestions, or additions to Ed Matthews via e-mail at
edm@aib.com.

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Summary of Changes

I have abandoned the montly update cycle and am making changes as they come
in. Henceforth, I am organizing the list below by date and everything over
60 days old will drop off the list.

March 22, 1996 Changes

   * Updated the binocular specifications in the ABA Binocular Comparison
     Chart.

March 21, 1996 Changes

   * In the Manufacturer Information document, I have really tried to
     clarify the Bogen/Manfrotto/Gitzo/DOCTER/Vinton relationship. No doubt,
     I don't have it all right, but I bet it is the best explanation in
     print.
   * I finally located contact information for Tasco, if anyone cares.

March 12, 1996 Changes

   * Added contact information for OP/TECH USA. Thanks, Terry.
   * Updated contact information and added Web site for Olympus America.
     Thanks, Jeanne.
   * Added a new supplier: Company Seven, Astro-Optics Division, Thanks,
     Martin.
   * Added a new repair shop in Seattle, Captain's Nautical Supplies.
     Thanks, Bill.
   * Updated contact information for Carl Zeiss Optical. Thanks, Bill.
   * Martin Finset kindly provided an update to Andrew MacLachlan's list of
     Bogen and Manfrotto Model Numbers.

February 22, 1996 Changes

   * Started a major rewrite of the night vision essay. Please excuse the
     mess during the transition.
   * Added contact information for Tiffen Manufacturing, manufacturers of
     Davis & Sanford tripod. These folks sure were friendly on the
     telephone.
   * Tele Vue has a home page. Thanks, Tiff.

February 21, 1996 Changes

   * Fixed a few HTML bugs.
   * Updated the discussion of focal length, f/ numbers, and added a diagram
     illustrating focal length and focal plane.

February 20, 1996 Changes

   * The Manufacturer Information page now has contact information for:
        o Celestron.
        o Meade.
        o Questar.
        o Tele Vue.
   * Finally, after years of procrastination, I have added a question about
     telescope design to the FAQ. I would appreciate you taking time to
     proofread the answer for accuracy.

February 19, 1996 Changes

   * There is now a Steiner home page.

February 16, 1996 Changes

   * There is now a Leupold & Stevens home page.
   * There is now a Bushnell home page. This page covers all three product
     lines: Jason, Bushnell, and Bausch & Lomb.
   * Added several more Canon pages from around the world.
   * Recently, Gitzo started marketing carbon fiber tripods and monopods.
     I've been curious. Found a review on the net.
   * Added a link to some tripod reviews on photo.net.

February 5, 1996 Changes

   * With Andrew McLachlan's permission, I have converted his Comparison of
     Manfrotto and Bogen Model Numbers to HTML and included a link in the
     tripods section.

January 30, 1996 Changes

   * There is now a Sigma Binoculars home page.
   * Ronnie Kon's Purchasing Amateur Telescopes FAQ is now available by FTP.
   * Added phone number for Celestron International.

January 29, 1996 Changes

   * I added a new essay on night vision and birding.

January 23, 1996 Changes

   * In the section on tripod heads, I now recommend that you purchase a
     fluid head. This isn't a major change in editorial stance, just an
     oversight. I can't really imagine anyone birding without a fluid head,
     if there is a choice.

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Table of Contents

   * General Advice
   * Common Questions About Optics
        o General Questions About Optics
             + What does 7x35 mean?
             + What is exit pupil?
             + How do I chose a magnification level?
             + What is field-of-view?
             + What is eye relief?
             + What should I know about lens coatings?
             + What are fluorite and low-dispersion glass?
             + What factors affect brightness in optical instruments?
        o Questions About Binoculars
             + What is the difference between roof and porro prism
               binoculars?
             + How do I judge comparable binoculars?
             + What other factors should I consider in buying binoculars?
             + How close should I be able to focus?
             + How can I hold my binoculars steady?
             + How can I find birds quickly with my binoculars?
             + Which inexpensive binoculars would you recommend to a
               beginner?
        o Questions About Scopes
             + What about fixed versus zoom eyepieces for scopes?
             + What about 45-degree eyepieces for scopes?
             + Can I take photographs through a scope?
             + What are the kinds of telescope designs?
        o Miscellaneous Questions
             + Is rubber armoring useful?
             + Can I use binoculars and scopes with eyeglasses?
             + What does the endorsement of the National Audubon Society
               mean?
             + How should I clean my lenses?
             + Are monoculars useful for birding?
   * Supports
        o Tripods
             + What are characteristics of good birding tripods?
             + What are characteristics of good tripod heads?
             + What are the common brands of tripods?
             + What should I consider before buying a tripod?
             + What else should I know about tripods?
        o Monopods
        o Finnsticks
        o Shoulder Stocks
        o Window Mounts
   * Ratings and Comparisons
        o Binocular Comparison Chart (ABA Sales Catalog -- Spring 1996)
        o Better View Desired Reference Set
        o Living Bird (Scopes -- Spring 1994)
   * Sources for Optical Equipment
        o Suppliers
        o Optical Repair
   * Useful Reference Material
   * Contributors

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General Advice

Do not buy any optical equipment without first field testing it, especially
if you wear glasses. Go to a popular birding spot and ask to try various
scopes and tripods. Or, go to an optics merchant that carries a full range
of equipment. Even if you have no dedicated optics merchant near you, you
might find that your local hunting store carries a wide range of optics.
Trying optics before you buy is the only way to determine individual
preferences such as weight, balance, and desirable magnification level.

If you are going to buy new binoculars, you should read the excellent essay
entitled Bird Worthy Binoculars in the November 1994 issue of Better View
Desired.

Owners of most tripod brands report loose parts and some report rust.
Tripods, like any other equipment with moving parts, require periodic
tightening and cleaning.

A good strap on a scope or binoculars increases comfort dramatically. The
new breed of neoprene straps from OP/TECH come highly recommended. They are
available from most optics merchants and camera shops.

Return to Table of Contents

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Common Questions About Optics

General Questions About Optics

What does 7x35 mean?

The first number (7) is the magnification (or power). The second (35) is the
size in millimeters of the objective lens (or aperture). The objective lens
is the large lens through which the light first enters the binocular or
scope. The diagram under the question How do I chose a magnification level?
illustrates the aperture. A magnification of 7 means that the object in view
appears 1/7 as far away. Larger magnification does not imply better optics.
These numbers are approximate: two 7x35 binoculars may differ slightly. See
also Barlow lenses.

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What is exit pupil?

Objective lens size is a key factor in how much light enters the instrument.
To determine the relative brightness of an instrument, divide the objective
lens size by the magnification (e.g., 35mm/7 = 5mm). Optical instruments
cease to be brighter when this measure, called the exit pupil, exceeds the
size of your pupil. All other variables being constant, the larger the exit
pupil, the brighter and more useful the instrument.

As you age, your pupil does not dilate as much as when you are younger. By
age 40, your pupil dilates to a maximum of about 5mm. Buying binoculars with
a larger exit pupil is a waste of money.

If exit pupil were the only factor in brightness, your choice would be easy.
However, the quality of the glass and its coatings play a large part in
determining brightness. You will find that good 10x40 (4mm exit pupil)
binoculars are generally brighter than cheap 7x35 (5mm exit pupil)
binoculars.

Birders who try to see pelagic birds on an active ocean find their
binoculars move around a lot with respect to their eyes, especially if they
wear eyeglasses. An over large exit pupil helps keep a bird in view as they
bounce around on the tossing deck, with the binoculars in one hand and the
other hand holding onto the boat itself.

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How do I chose a magnification level?

The lower the magnification (power), the shorter the effective range of the
instrument. As a payoff, you get a brighter image and a wider field-of-view.
The higher the power, the harder the instrument is to hold steady, the less
bright the image, and the narrower the field-of-view. Brightness is
inversely related to the square of the power: doubling the power reduces
brightness to a fourth.

For binoculars, common magnification levels are 7x, 8x, and 10x. Good
quality optics are generally more important than magnification level. And,
you must be able to hold the binoculars steady. I don't have any problems
holding 10x binoculars steady, but many people do.

For scopes, the most popular range is between 20x and 40x. Distortion from
heat shimmer becomes a limiting factor over 40x. Lower than 20x limits the
useful range of the scope.

The power of an instrument is the focal length of the main objective divided
by the focal length of the eyepiece. For instance, a scope with a main
objective of 900mm focal length and eyepiece of 30mm focal length is 30x
(900/30).

[Focal Length Drawing] In simplistic terms, the focal length of a simple,
                       thin lens is the distance from the lens that it
focuses the object. For example, a lens with a 30mm focal length would focus
its image 30mm behind the lens. In this diagram, fl is the focal length of
the lens; fp is the focal plane, the plane in space where the lens focuses;
and ap is the aperture.

Focal length is related to focal ratio. The focal ratio of a lens is its
focal length divided by its aperture. If this scope also has a 90mm
objective lens, its focal ratio is 900/90 or f/10. The focal ratio is also
referred to the speed of the lens; an f/10 lens is slower than an f/6.3
lens. Faster lenses give wider and brighter images than slower lenses,
assuming the eyepiece is constant.

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What is field-of-view?

Field-of-view (FOV) is how much horizontal view you can see through an
optical instrument. The following diagram illustrates field-of-view:

[Field-Of-View Drawing] In this diagram:

w = length of the side of the triangle formed by side d, angle a, and right
angle b

w = FOV/2 as a linear measurement
a = FOV/2 as an angular measurement
w = d * tan(a)

FOV is expressed in one of two forms: a linear width (2 * w) at a given
distance (d) or as an angle (2 * a). Both forms are common. In the US, the
linear form is expressed as feet in view at 1000 yards. In the metric world,
the linear form is expressed as meters in view at 1000 meters. The angular
form expresses that portion of a circle (360 degrees) that is visible. The
angle is constant with distance. Typical angular FOV measurements are
between 5 and 8.5 degrees.

Be sure you actually try the binoculars to compare the FOV. In many cases,
the actual FOV may be markedly different than what the manufacturer claims
it is. And, many people cannot see the entire theoretical FOV because of
problems with eye relief.

To compare the FOV of binoculars with different magnification levels,
compute the "apparent FOV." This is the angular FOV multiplied by the
magnification. Typical values range from 45 to 75 degrees with most being
between 50 and 65.

Other things being equal, wider FOV is generally better than narrower FOV
for helping you find birds more easily. Of course, other things seldom are
equal, and you generally must pay for wide FOV some other way: lower
resolution, lower magnification, less eye relief, greater weight, or higher
cost.

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What is eye relief?

Eye relief is the distance between the eyepiece and your cornea when you are
seeing the full illuminated circle of the image, the sensation of "looking
through" the scope or binoculars.

You can determine empirically the eye relief of binoculars by holding them
steady in a shaded location pointed at a bright sky or surface. Hold white
paper behind the eyepiece and you will see a bright disc of light on the
paper. This is the exit pupil as discussed earlier. Move the paper until the
disc is sharpest; this is the precise location of the exit pupil in space.
The distance between the eyepiece and the paper is the eye relief.

If you wear glasses, eye relief is critical because you must have enough
room to get your glasses between the lens and the focal plane. Even if you
do not wear glasses, a reasonable amount of eye relief helps keep the
instrument far enough from the eye for comfort. However, high eye relief
designs may give non-eyeglass wearers the sensation that they need to move
their eyes far back from the eyepiece.

In general, shorter focal length eyepieces have shorter eye relief. High eye
relief designs are usually more expensive. Also, higher magnification
generally means less eye relief; scope users may have noticed this in
changing eyepieces. Many eyepieces in wide-angle binoculars have low eye
relief as a consequence of their design, something to remember and test if
you are considering buying a wide-angle binocular.

The ABA catalogs are good about listing eye relief figures for most
eyepieces and state what they consider minimum.

Celestron [Vixen in Europe] (and perhaps other astronomically oriented)
scopes have optional Barlow lenses that may be of interest to eyeglass
wearers. A Barlow lens is a long metal tube that attaches instead of the
eyepiece. The eyepiece goes onto this tube, thus extending the physical
length of the scope and effectively increasing the focal length of the
objective lens. The beauty of the Barlow lens is that it increases power
(about 2x) while letting you continue to use the same eyepiece with which
you are comfortable, a big bonus for eyeglasses wearers. A couple of readers
recommend the Barlows from Astrophysics.

Drawbacks are that the overall length of the scope is increased, increasing
the chances of damage in the field and making the scope a bit more awkward.
Barlow lenses are not common, nor are they suitable for quick changes in the
field. Still, in a fixed setting such as nest watching, the fact you can
double the power and preserve the eye relief is significant.

Also, several scope manufacturers offer long eye relief eyepieces by various
names. Celestron/Vixen calls their 20mm eye relief eyepieces LV (Long View).

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What should I know about lens coatings?

Low-reflection coatings (generally of magnesium fluoride) increase the light
transmitted through binoculars by increasing contrast, reducing glare, and
eliminating reflections. Depending on the kind of glass, the surface will
reflect 4 to 8 percent of the incoming light. Lens coatings aim to reduce
the amount of reflection, with some technologies reducing it to tenths of a
percent.

For best results, all glass surfaces where the beam of light moves from air
into glass or from glass into air should be coated. Cheap binoculars
sometimes only have coatings on the outside surfaces, in an attempt to
impress and confuse the gullible buyer.

The best coatings are called "multi-coatings," or something similar; they
are better simply because a multi-coated surface reflects less light than
one with a conventional coating. You can notice the difference between
single- and multi-coatings particularly when viewing birds in shade when the
field-of-view also includes brightly lit objects (i.e., extreme contrast).

It is hard to tell what surfaces of a binocular are coated, and with what
kind of coatings, just by looking at them. For this reason alone, you should
buy from a well-respected manufacturer and from a reputable dealer.

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What are fluorite and low-dispersion glass?

Optics manufacturers use fluorite (CaF2) and low-dispersion (known by
various trade names, e.g., ED) glass in the fabrication of the objectives
(front lenses) of telescopes to reduce longitudinal chromatic aberration,
which causes a purplish blur around high-contrast objects (such as stars or
planets) when observed at high power, even when they are in the exact center
of the field-of-view. This problem is different from the one that causes
colored fringes around telephone lines, etc., near the edges of the
field-of-view. This second problem is called chromatic difference of
magnification, or lateral color, and is more the result of eyepiece design
than of glass composition.

Theoretically, and contrary to the manufacturers' marketing literature, at
the relatively low magnifications that birders use, the added benefit of
fluorite or ED glass is likely unnoticeable. However, Fisher presents some
empirical results that suggest for the higher-powered scopes (60-70x),
low-dispersion glass may help.

A minor concern is that fluorite is susceptible to attack by water -- it
dissolves slowly. Most objectives do not have the fluorite as the outer
component of the lens; it is inside where it is protected.

For more information, see "Is Low-Dispersion Glass Worth the Extra Money?"
by Robert Fisher, in Birding, April 1995, p. 143.

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What factors affect brightness in optical instruments?

Have you noticed that the warbler in the bush at dusk that you can see with
binoculars practically disappears without them? The effect is profound and
many people believe this is because binoculars and telescopes act as "light
buckets" that collect light over a large area, effectively enlarging their
eyes.

This is true, but the magnification of the lens spreads the light over a
larger area and the apparent brightness "per square degree" is no more than
with the naked eye. What is really happening is that the lens is enlarging
the object without making it fainter.

Higher quality optics increase apparent brightness by eliminating
reflections. This effect can be substantial, but probably does not cause a
dramatic difference in brightness between two pairs of binoculars. The
dominant factor is the exit pupil which, if smaller than the diameter of
your pupil, will decrease brightness. Another factor is contrast, which does
not increase brightness but does give the appearance of a brighter view.
Lens coatings generally improve contrast.

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Questions About Binoculars

What is the difference between roof and porro prism binoculars?

The following two diagrams, used with permission of and copyright by Pentax
Corporation, illustrate the differences. [Quote from Charles A. Bergman,
Audubon, November 1981]

 [Porro Prism Drawing] Porro Prism

"But how do binoculars present an upright image to the viewer? ...An Italian
named M. Porro invented the first prismatic inverting system in the middle
of the nineteenth century...Porro's system consists of two identical prisms
in each barrel of the binocular, placed at right angles to each other. Each
prism looks rather like one of Napoleon's hats, the bicorne. Like mirrors,
each prism reflects and reverses the light off its steep sides. One prism
reverts the image left to right and the other prism inverts the image top to
bottom. With an acrobat's grace, the image somersaults through the
binoculars, springing to our eyes, normal and erect, a natural perspective."

 [Roof Prism Drawing] Roof Prism

"Roof prisms were invented in the nineteenth century, in the optical
workshop of Carl Zeiss at Jena, Germany. A young professor of physics at the
University of Jena, Ernst Abbe, formulated the mathematical laws for the
paths of light through microscopes. Together with the chemist Otto Schott,
he also invented the first high-quality, reproducible optical glass. At age
twenty-six, he became director of research for Zeiss. Using his own
mathematics and glass -- both historical contributions to the optical
industry -- Abbe created not only the microscopes of Louis Pasteur, but also
a pentaprism, the "Abbe roof prism." Abbe's roof prism was the progenitor of
a vast array of modern roof prisms. Inside, roof prisms juggle the light
rays through an invisible labyrinth of angles, a convoluted path, a
mathematical marvel. On the outside, a roof-prism binocular is elegant in
its simplicity."

Neither design has a performance advantage over the other -- they are simply
two different designs.

Modern roof prism binoculars tend to have two separate prisms that are
cemented together, rather than two offset prisms as in the porro prism
design.

What this means for birders is:

   * Roof prisms, because of the engineering required, are more expensive.
   * Binoculars containing roof prisms are generally much more compact.
   * Porro prism binoculars are more susceptible than roof prisms to
     alignment problems if dropped.

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How do I judge comparable binoculars?

When judging binoculars, you should know what properties the power and
aperture (e.g., 7x50) fix, as opposed to other parameters that are the
consequence of good design (e.g., long eye relief). If you know the power
and aperture, the following are fixed, and the most expensive pair of that
type will have the same value as an inexpensive pair:

   * Exit pupil diameter or "apparent brightness"
   * Depth of field, i.e., range in which objects appear in focus at a given
     distance
   * Faintest stars visible, determined by aperture only (independent of
     power)

Optical quality and design affect:

   * Eye relief (tends to be longer in lower power binoculars)
   * Image contrast (because of the number and quality of coated surfaces)
   * Apparent field-of-view (cannot be large if eye relief is long)
   * Image sharpness across field (harder in wide field binoculars)
   * Closest focus (tends to be closer in low power binoculars)

Here are several examples: 7x35's are about as "bright" as 8x40's. Two
7x50's could have radically different eye relief. If one pair has a wide
apparent field, it probably has shorter eye relief. A large pair of 20x70's
will have a less bright image than a small pair of 8x32's. That same 20x70
probably does not focus as close as the 8x32.

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What other factors should I consider in buying binoculars?

You should consider how you are going to use and treat them. Consider the
following questions:

   * If you have an expensive pair of binoculars, will you be afraid to take
     them with you?
   * Do you plan to store the binoculars in your car so they will always be
     with you?
   * Can you carry them easily when hiking, biking, or cross-country skiing?
     Perhaps you want a second pair for this?
   * Do you plan to use them in extremely humid/wet environments?
   * Do the binoculars fit your hands? Binoculars and people come in
     different shapes and sizes.
   * Do the lens caps remain attached? Can you remove them easily?
   * How much travel does the focus wheel have? If you have to make several
     revolutions to go from closest focus to farthest focus, you may not be
     happy.

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How close should I be able to focus?

[Paraphrased from The Complete Birder, Houghton Mifflin, Boston, 1988, by
Jack Connor]

Binoculars with close-focus are essential for woodland birding. You can
visually separate several problematic pairs of small birds only at close
range.

Fortunately, you can test close-focus in a store. Find the closest spot on
the floor you can see sharply through the binoculars, then count your paces
as you walk to it. For an accurate test, first adjust the
dioptric-compensation ring for the difference in strengths of your two eyes.
Without first doing this, your test will be inaccurate.

A close-focus range of 15 to 18 feet (5 to 5.5m) is the least you should
accept. If you like chasing sparrows and warblers, you'll be happier with a
minimum range of about 10 feet (3m). Depending on your eyes, you can find
binoculars with close-focus ranges down to 6 feet (2m).

To focus even closer than normal, focus as close as the binocular allows.
Then use the dioptric-compensation ring to focus a bit closer. This
approach, while useful for emergencies, has drawbacks: your binoculars are
now a monocular, you have disturbed your normal dioptric-compensation ring
setting, and if you cannot make the adjustment on the side of your dominant
eye, you may need to cover your dominant eye.

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How can I hold my binoculars steady?

Here are two different techniques you may want to try.

The first technique involves moving your hands back to your face to achieve
stability:

  1. Hold the binocular as you normally would.
  2. Slide your hands toward your face, until only your pinky and ring
     fingers (third and fourth) are curled around the back end of the
     binocular body. The binocular will feel a little nose-heavy, because
     you are supporting it behind its center of gravity.
  3. Curl each thumb up as if you were making a fist, and flex your hands so
     that the second bone in from the tip of your thumb is pressed against
     your cheekbone.
  4. Finally, curl the first and middle fingers of each hand around the
     corresponding binocular eyepiece. You will have your hands as though
     you are peering into a bright window at night.

In this position, your hands will make a solid structural connection between
the body of the binocular, through your hands and thumbs, to your face, and
should improve how steadily you can hold the instrument.

If this out-of-balance position becomes tiring, move one hand out to the
objective end of its side of the binocular, so that you are supporting the
instrument on opposite sides of its center of gravity. When you get tired,
switch hands.

The second technique involves using a strap for stability:

  1. Attach a long, wide strap to the binoculars. Neoprene is okay but
     materials that don't stretch are better. Adjust the strap so that it is
     as long as possible.
  2. Hold the binoculars so they are horizontal and the strap hangs down.
  3. Insert your hands through the strap loop one at a time, grasping the
     binoculars normally.
  4. Let the strap drape so that your elbows extend through the loop and the
     strap hits your triceps.
  5. Spread your elbows toward your sides, tightening the strap across your
     chest.
  6. To hold for lengthy periods, bring your thumbs and wrists closer
     together on the binoculars and focus from the underside of the
     binoculars using your thumbs.

The benefits are that your arms are tight against the sides of your chest
making a stable and restful platform. The strap helps keep your arms from
sliding outward. The theory is the same as using a rifle sling: to create a
static platform using constrained equal and opposite forces.

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How can I find birds quickly with my binoculars?

Here are some tips from experienced birders:

  1. Memorize how you turn the focus wheel to focus closer or farther.
  2. Remember at all times how far away you last focused.
  3. After looking at a bird, refocus for where you expect the next bird. In
     the woods, this is close. On the beach, this is farther out.
  4. Start focusing before the binoculars get to your eyes.
  5. Make a mental note of where the bird is: "third branch to the right
     against yellow leaves." Vegetation looks different with and without
     binoculars.
  6. Keep looking at the bird while raising the binoculars into your line of
     sight.
  7. Practice, practice, practice.

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Which inexpensive binoculars would you recommend to a beginner?

Many people consider the Bushnell Birder 7x35 a great buy at US$75 or under.

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Questions About Scopes

If you are in the market to purchase your first scope, remember to save
enough to buy a good tripod and head.

What about fixed versus zoom eyepieces for scopes?

Fixed magnification eyepieces tend to give a crisper and brighter image.
Zooms can be useful, but unless you spend a lot of money, they can be of
lesser quality than fixed lenses. Some birders prefer interchangeable fixed
lenses (e.g., a 25x lens and a 40x lens) to a zoom. Zooms on the expensive
scopes (e.g., Kowa) are excellent.

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What about 45-degree eyepieces for scopes?

While the majority of birders still use straight eyepieces, you might
consider an eyepiece that is angled at 45 degrees (offset). More and more
birders are switching to offset eyepieces. 45-degree eyepieces have the
following advantages:

   * They can be more comfortable when viewing elevated birds, those high in
     trees or migrating raptors, for example.
   * It is easier to share a tripod between people of different heights; the
     taller simply bends over farther, instead of stooping.
   * You can change the elevation of the scope (by tilting it) without
     having to adjust the tripod height in more cases.
   * You can use a shorter tripod, important if you are very tall or if
     weight is a concern for you.

They are not without drawbacks, however:

   * The eyepiece is angled up into the rain and blowing dust. To
     compensate, you can rotate the eyepiece 90 degrees to the left or right
     to get it out of the rain.
   * Unless the scope rotates in its mount, it can take some work to use a
     45-degree eyepiece with window mounts when birding from a car. If the
     scope rotates in its mount, you can use it successfully in a window
     mount.
   * While not a major concern, you should consider that the lower scope
     height may give more opportunity for someone to step in your way.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can I take photographs through a scope?

General consensus is that if you want to take professional photographs, do
not use your scope. It requires a steady (heavy) tripod and the combination
of scope and camera is heavy and awkward. Focusing is difficult and close
focusing is not generally possible. Scopes usually have a fixed, small
aperture (typically f/11). This means that you must adjust exposures by
varying the shutter speed. With a small aperture, and a fast enough shutter
speed to keep the bird from blurring, you must use fast film, even in bright
sun. In early morning and late evening, or in shady woods, you simply will
not have enough light to take a good photograph. Some scope/camera
combinations also have problems with vignetting: the rim of the scope is
visible in the photograph as a dark, fuzzy ring around the edge.

[Paraphrased from the Canon EOS FAQ on rec.photo by Bob Atkins]

     In general, scopes are too slow and their focal lengths are too
     long. The longer the focal length, the steadier you must hold the
     lens and the more atmospheric effects will degrade the image. The
     only scopes capable of yielding high quality images are the fast,
     short focal length, apochromatic refractors. For example, Tele Vue
     makes a 500mm f/5 apochromatic telescope using Fluorite lens
     elements. It makes a good lens (manual focus, fixed aperture), but
     costs US$1700, weighs 10lbs+ (4.5kg+) and is about 36" (92cm)
     long. While not easy, you can use it in the field with a heavy
     tripod. Its performance as a lens is similar to the best telephoto
     lenses; however, it has several drawbacks. It has no autofocus;
     you cannot stop it down; and it is big and heavy.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What are the kinds of telescope designs?

Telescope designs fall into one of three categories: reflector, refractor,
and catadioptric.

   * Reflector

     Reflecting telescopes use a mirror as the objective. The simplest way
     of explaining this is by illustrating a Newtonian reflector. In this
     scope, light enters one end of a long tube and strikes a concave mirror
     at the bottom of the tube. This mirror focuses the image upwards onto a
     small flat mirror towards the top of the tube. This mirror diverts the
     out the side of the tube and through the eyepiece. I know of no birding
     telescopes of this design.

   * Refractor

     Refracting telescopes use a lens as the objective at one end of a tube
     with an eyepiece at the opposite end of the tube. Many birding scopes
     on the market today are refractors.

   * Catadioptric

     Catadioptric telescopes are a hybrid or compromise design between
     reflectors and refractors. These scopes use both a lens and a mirror.
     The Schmidt-Cassegrain is a catadioptric design in which an objective
     lens at one end of a short tube focuses the image on a concave mirror
     at the other end. This mirror focuses the image upwards on small
     concave mirror located towards the top of the tube. This second mirror
     then focuses the image back down through a hole in the center of the
     lower mirror and into the eyepiece.

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Miscellaneous Questions

Is rubber armoring useful?

Binoculars and scopes are more and more often clad in rubber -- this is
known as rubber armoring. Rubber armoring provides protection against
corrosion and dirt, helps cushion blows to the instrument, and gives a less
slippery surface to grip. Armoring adds a little weight and may require
maintenance with a rubber preservative. Many feel rubber preservatives leave
a greasy feeling.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Can I use binoculars and scopes with eyeglasses?

You certainly can; however, DO NOT BUY BINOCULARS OR SCOPES WITHOUT TESTING
THEM WITH YOUR GLASSES. Some people like to use their binoculars without
their glasses. There is no harm in this. However, if you have astigmatism,
you need your glasses to help you focus, even with the binoculars (which
only increase magnification).

People who wear eyeglasses often have trouble with scopes and binoculars.
Try several models with your glasses. The critical factor if you wear
glasses is eye relief. Look for eye relief of at least 15mm. Because eye
relief is a property of eyepiece design, you cannot change the eye relief of
binoculars. Several scopes offer optional long-relief eyepieces -- Kowa's
are excellent. One exception is the Bausch & Lomb Elite scopes with fixed
lenses; they come with long-relief eyepieces as standard equipment.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What does the endorsement of the National Audubon Society mean?

The NAS has licensed its logo to certain manufacturers and the logo appears
on certain optical products. The appearance of the logo does not constitute
any endorsement by NAS. The logo presumably indicates that the product is
targetted at birders; however, it does not mean that it is any better than
competing products from other manufacturers.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

How should I clean my lenses?

[From a Celestron manual:]

     "Always determine whether or not your telescope needs cleaning.
     Specks of dust or pieces of lint do not impair the visual or
     photographic performance of your telescope, but excessive cleaning
     can cause small scratches which harm performance more than lint or
     dust. These scratches cause light scattering, which is VERY
     harmful to optical performance. Professional telescopes used
     nightly, only need cleaning every six months or so."

A good cleaning solution is a mixture of isopropypyl alcohol and distilled
water with a few drops of biodegradable washing detergent. Do not use
breath, saliva, or commercial solutions for cleaning eyeglasses lenses.
These solutions contain silicones which can be difficult to remove from
lenses.

Use cotton balls of natural cotton or lens tissue to clean lenses. Use fresh
cotton balls or tissue often. Never clean in circles to prevent making
scratches all over the optics. Never rub or apply pressure. Clean from the
center to the edge of the lens; take another piece of cotton or tissue and
repeat.

If your lenses have dried-on salt spray, gently wet the salt deposits with
damp cotton or tissue and allow the deposits to soften before cleaning
normally.

To avoid frequent cleanings, always store your lens with the cap on.

If your lenses are scratched, consider contacting the manufacturer of your
binoculars or scope to enquire about having the lenses polished and
recoated. This may prove less expensive than buying new equipment.

For further information, refer to "Tools of the Trade," William Van Meter,
Birding, June 1988.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Are monoculars useful for birding?

Utility is literally in the eye of the beholder. Monoculars compromise
optical utility for portability. Most monoculars (this discussion does not
apply to telescopes) have a limited field-of-view and tend to be dark
(because of small objective lens). They are generally pocket-sized and you
can carry them in situations where you would not otherwise take any optical
instrument. However, I still prefer small binoculars (such as the Nikon
Diplomats, 8x23 with aspherical lenses). You are advised to spend your money
on binoculars and a scope, before spending any money on a monocular.

Return to Table of Contents

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Supports

Supports for birding with binoculars and scopes come in several forms:
tripods, monopods, Finnsticks, shoulder stocks, and window mounts.

Tripods

A good tripod is as important as a good scope. If you have a flimsy tripod,
it does not matter how good your scope is; you will not get a good image.
Also, in addition to purchasing a tripod, you must generally purchase the
head separately. The head sits on top of the tripod, carries the scope, and
rotates. If you are going to spend the money for a good scope, be prepared
to spend US$200-300 on a good tripod and head.

Owners of most tripod brands report loose parts and some report rust.
Tripods are like any other equipment: they require some preventative
maintenance.

There is some interesting reading about Tripods and Tripod Heads on
photo.net.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What are characteristics of good birding tripods?

Characteristics of good birding tripods are: 1) heavy, to minimize
vibrations in the wind, 2) light, to facilitate easy transportation, 3)
compact, again to facilitate easy transportation, 4) tall enough to allow
comfortable viewing for long periods, 4) quick to set up and take down, and
5) independently adjustable legs for rough terrain. As you can see, a
birding tripod is a compromise between too much and too little weight and
between compactness and height. Fortunately, all the tripods listed below
meet these criteria, more or less.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What are characteristics of good tripod heads?

For birding, you should consider what is called a fluid head. Such heads are
called fluid because they rotate smoothly on the horizontal axis. This
smooth motion is mandatory if you intend to follow moving birds, which you
will inevitably do in birding.

Characteristics of good heads are: 1) heavy, to minimize vibrations, 2)
positive mounting system, to minimize vibration, 3) adjustable friction,
(you want to move the head at will, but you want it to stay still
otherwise), 4) two degrees of freedom (pivots up-and-down and side-to-side),
5) quick to mount and unmount scope.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What are the common brands of tripods?

The large majority of US birders use one of two tripods, the Bogen 3021 or
the Davis & Sandford RTS. Gitzo also makes fine tripods which are popular
among professional photographers. The most expensive Velbon tripods are less
expensive than the others listed here and may be an option for birders on a
budget. [I don't know what people outside the US use, they haven't told me.]

A recent consolidation in the market now has Bogen owning or reselling
Gitzo. In the US, both are at +1-201-818-9500.

Bogen (manufactured by Manfrotto)

Model 3021 (Manfrotto 55) is most popular with birders; lesser models are
not sturdy enough; larger models are overkill. With the micro-fluid head, it
weighs about 8 pounds (3.5k) without scope, so it requires a strap for
carrying. However, the weight makes for a steady scope in the wind. Some
people find the heads too heavy, making the tripod assembly top heavy. The
quick release plate for the micro-fluid head is nice, especially for
switching between scope and camera. The quick-release leg levers are handy,
but take some strength to operate and have a reputation for coming loose. A
few birders report tripod collapse as a result. The levers can catch twigs,
hair, and binocular straps. Legs can open noisily if not careful. Good
height for tall birders. Replacement parts are readily available (see ABA
Sales). With proper maintenance (they are subject to loose nuts and rust),
owners are generally happy with this tripod.

Note: International readers will want to compare Bogen model numbers with
Manfrotto model numbers.

Davis & Sanford (manufactured by Tiffen)

Davis & Sanford/Tiffen tripods are not all that common. You can find them
through camera dealers who stock Tiffen filters. The tripods are in the same
catalog. D & S tripods are lighter than Bogen tripods, so they do not feel
as rock solid, but users are happy with them nonetheless. They feature
fast-to-open twist-to-unlock legs. One drawback with this mechanism is that
you cannot tell if the legs are locked by glancing at them. Heads feature
easy-to-use quick release mechanisms.

Model RTS is no frills, solid, lightweight (4.75 lbs, 2.2kg), and fast to
open. Its fully-extended height of 67" (1.72m) is not as tall as the Bogen
3021. [Editor's note: I'm 6'3" (2m) and the Bogen is a better fit.] Owners
find this tripod plenty sturdy even with heavy scopes and seem to be
universally happy with it.

If you are tall and want a lighter tripod than the Bogen, you should
consider the Davis & Sanford Magnum. The Magnum is more expensive, taller
(69", 1.77m), and slightly heavier (5.5 lbs, 2.5kg) than the RTS. You can
screw in the rubber feet to expose spikes for extra stability. The two-piece
legs are independently adjustable, but are not as adjustable as those on
Bogen tripods.

When ordering either the RTS or Magnum tripods, birders will want the RTH1
pan-head. The RTH2 is more expensive and is unsuitable for birding because
the upward tilt is limited to a maximum of 20 degrees. This limitation makes
it useless for pointing at the tops of tall trees or following high flying
raptors. The RTH1 does not have this limitation.

Tips from users: moving the side handle from front to back on the RTH2 head
may help horizontal stability. And wrapping the legs with rubber tape will
prevent them from clanging audibly against the center post.

Gitzo

While primarily aimed at professional photographers who need stability for
monster lenses (400mm+), Gitzo tripods have found some favor among birders.
Model 341 (the Inter Pro Studex Rapid) is solid (7 lbs, 3.2kg), good for
tall birders, and well built. The Bogen fluid head fits this tripod.
Drawbacks are that it is expensive (around US$300) and long (29, 75cm) when
collapsed. On the other hand, Gitzo tripods have a lifetime guarantee, are
rustproof, have no projecting levers, and are less prone to be noisy.

Recently, Gitzo started marketing carbon fiber tripods and monopods.

Velbon

For less expensive scopes, some people recommend the Velbon brand because
paying for a Bogen would seem like overkill. Velbon tripods are considerably
less expensive. Of the common Velbon tripods, the most sturdy and the most
applicable to birding is the Stratos 470 with a VelFlo8 PH258 fluid head and
quick-release plate. This is basically a video camera tripod with a braced
center column. This model is 25 inches (63 cm) long when collapsed and
extends to 63 inches (158 cm); it weighs 5 lbs (2.3 kg). The leg extensions
have lever locks.

This is not a tripod for a Questar or an 80mm Swarovski, but for a 60mm
scope at 20-30x magnification it is adequate. It has one advantage over the
Bogen tripods: when you adjust the height, the head stays aimed because the
center column cannot rotate. This is helpful if you share the scope with
someone of different height.

The Eagle Optics catalog lists three other models, each probably less suited
for a scope.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What should I consider before buying a tripod?

Don't buy what's in stock at a camera store unless you are sure it's what
you want. The tripods they stock are not based on your needs or the quality
of the equipment but rather on price range, availability, and profit margin.

If you have trouble with hand strength, pay particular attention to the
method of tightening and loosening controls, especially leg locks.

If you are a jump-out-of-the-car birder and the tripod won't fit in the car
extended, consider how quickly you can extend the legs (snap-locks are the
fastest but are usually not found on quality tripods).

If you intend to use the tripod in wet environments, look for legs with no
opening at the bottom and waterproof (nylon, not fiber) washers inside the
legs that won't soak up water and jam.

If you want to photograph flowers or want the extra flexibility, look for
legs that open to a right angle with the center column so you can work close
to the ground.

The fewer the leg sections, the faster and easier the set-up.

If you plan to share your tripod with someone of a different height, and you
choose one that is the correct height (or slightly too short) with the legs
fully extended for the shorter user, you can accomodate both users by
adjusting only the center post. That will avoid the annoyance of adjusting
the legs when swapping between users.

If possible, go somewhere with several photo stores where you can try an
assortment of tripods and heads.

If you can wait, write or call the manufacturer(s) for detailed product
descriptions. There are usually many more options/models available than any
store carries. A trip to the library should provide current addresses and
phone numbers from photo magazines.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

What else should I know about tripods?

To minimize the thunk (the noise) of the tripod when you open it, hold it
horizontally, then pull out and lock the legs. The birds and your fellow
birders will appreciate it.

If you have problems with vibration, you can hang a heavy object beneath
your tripod to give it more stability and quicker damping time. Astronomy
catalogs sell aluminum and rubber gadgets that reduce vibration times by
about 3x for about US$40. Effective low-tech solutions are to hang your day
pack, water jug, or a rock from the tripod. Also, you can damp vibrations by
placing a heavy object, such as a bean bag, on the scope itself.

If you need to carry your scope or camera and tripod combination any
distance, either buy foam pipe insulation or commercially available leg
wraps to cushion the load on your shoulder and/or use a carrying strap.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Monopods

A monopod is not a replacement for a tripod. However, a monopod is an option
when weight and bulk are factors. When I travel by air, I pack a monopod,
scope, and binocs into my briefcase along with the appropriate field guides,
leaving my hands free for luggage and portable computer. Monopods lack
stability (especially in the wind) and have only limited height (I perch
mine on a rock where possible).

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Finnsticks

A finnstick is literally a stick, usually with a fork at one end, which you
use to hold your binoculars at eye-level, allowing you to keep your arms
down. Consequently, you keep your view steadier for longer periods.
Finnsticks are useful in any endurance situation: hawk watching, sea
watching, and pelagic trips.

These sticks originated in Finland where they are called staijikeppi
(pronounced: stah-yeeh kep-peeh). Most finnsticks are homemade (because they
apparently have a proclivity for getting lost) from branches 1.5-2 inches
(4-6cm) in diameter, 2-3 feet (60-100cm) in length, with a natural fork in
one end. This fork, with perhaps a little carving, fits under the center
barrel of the binoculars.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Shoulder Stocks

A shoulder stock is a device similar to the stock of a gun, on which you
mount a scope or camera. Some people prefer a shoulder stock for its
mobility and portability. Such a device is excellent for following the path
of a moving bird; however, the scope is only as steady as your arm and your
arm will get tired quickly. You also want to be careful in using anything
that resembles a firearm in certain areas.

Tony Quezon put together this list of sources in the US:

Model Name             Cost             Manufacturer/Distributor
----------             ----             ------------------------

BushHawk BH-200S       US$69.95         Ocean Instruments, Inc.
                                        5312 Banks Street
                                        San Diego, CA 92110-4004 USA
                                        +1-619-291-2557
                                        +1-619-296-2240 (fax)
                                        Orders Toll Free: 800-325-8542

Harry Bonner Gunstock  US$119.95        Leonard Rue Enterprises
Rue Gunstock           US$119.95        138 Millbrook Road
                                        Blairstown, NJ  07825-9534 USA
                                        +1-908-362-6616
                                        +1-908-362-5808 (fax)
                                        Orders Toll Free: 800-734-2568

Universal Handgrip     US$375           Leica Camera Inc.
                                        156 Ludlow Avenue
                                        Northvale, NJ 07647 USA
                                        +1-201-767-7500
                                        +1-201-767-8666 (fax)

Stabilizer Quick Shot  Standard US$135  Concept Development, Inc.
                       Pro      US$165  1123 South 6th Street
                                        Brainerd, MN 56401 USA
                                        +1-218-829-3411
                                        Orders Toll Free: 800-487-3410

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Window Mounts

Several manufacturers make scope mounts that slide over and fasten to a car
window. These are useful for birding impoundments and fields accessible by
car. Although handy, they transfer all vibrations from the car to the scope,
so you have to turn off the car and they also can take infuriatingly long to
attach to the window. An alternative is a small (usually homemade) bean bag
that rests on top of the window (or car roof, boulder, limb). See the Dec
1992 Birding for more details.

Return to Table of Contents

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Ratings and Comparisons

Binocular Comparison Chart (ABA Sales Catalog -- Spring 1996)

If your browser does not support tables, click here.

        Model         Size  Weight  FOV at   Close    Eye     Finish
                             (oz)  1000 yds  Focus  Relief
 Celestron Regal      10x50   28    263 ft      8 ft 20mm  rubber armor
 B & L Elite          10x42   28    294 ft  10-12 ft 20mm  rubber armor
 Bushnell Natureview  10x42   25    320 ft     13 ft 17mm  rubber armor
 Leica ULTRA          10x42   31    330 ft     14 ft 17mm  polyurethane
 Swarovski SLC        10x42   30    330 ft     12 ft 15mm  polyurethane
 Swift Ultra Lite     10x42   21    346 ft     15 ft 13mm  rubber armor
 B & L Custom         10x40   29    273 ft  10-12 ft 17mm  rubber armor
 Zeiss Dialyt B/GA T* 10x40   27    330 ft     15 ft 15mm  rubber armor
 Swift Audubon       8.5x44   29    430 ft     13 ft  9mm  unarmored
 Swift Ultra Lite      8x42   21    346 ft   16.5 ft 22mm  rubber armor
 Celestron Regal       8x42   24    331 ft      6 ft 20mm  rubber armor
 B & L Elite           8x42   29    368 ft  10-12 ft 20mm  rubber armor
 Bushnell Natureview   8x42   26    341 ft     10 ft 19mm  rubber armor
 Leica ULTRA           8x42   31    390 ft     15 ft 18mm  polyurethane
 B & L Custom          8x36   23    341 ft  10-12 ft 17mm  unarmored
 Leica ULTRA           8x32   22    405 ft  10-11 ft 17mm  polyurethane
 Swarovski SLC WB      8x30   19    408 ft     10 ft 15mm  polyurethane
 Zeiss Dialyt B/GA T*  8x30   21    405 ft     13 ft 15mm  rubber armor
 Swarovski SLC         7x42   30    430 ft     12 ft 20mm  polyurethane
 Zeiss B/GA T*         7x42   28    460 ft  10-12 ft 18mm  rubber armor
 B & L Custom Compact  7x26   11    386 ft     10 ft 16mm  rubber armor

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Better View Desired Reference Set

Now that Better View Desired has its own home page, I am no longer keeping
the most current reference set in the FAQ. The most current version of the
Better View Desired Reference Set is at URL:
http://www.biddeford.com/~sing/RefSet.html.

Living Bird (Scopes -- Spring 1994)

If your browser does not support tables, click here.

[From Gallagher and Gerhart, "A Birder's Guide to Spotting Scopes," Living
Bird, 13:2, Spring 1994, pp. 26-31. Thanks to Carena Pooth for this
information].

Of the 19 scopes rated, the authors found 4 outstanding scopes in the
$1,000-$1,600 range: Kowa TSN-4, Bausch & Lomb Elite 77mm ED, Optolyth
TBG-80 HD, and Swarovski ST-80. Refer to the article for discussion of the
various scopes. The following chart summarizes the results. All ratings are
from 1 to 5, with 1 being the highest rating.

        Scope       Objective  Power  Weight LengthSharp- Bright- Color ZoomGlasses Focus Price
                       (mm)            (oz)   (in)  ness    ness                          ($US)
                                      greater than US$2000
 Questar                89    54X/87X  70.9    11.81+     1+      1+    NA  1+      1-    $2895*
                                       US$1000 to US$2000
 B & L Elite ED         77    20X-60X  43.9    13.51      1       2     2   2       1     $1400
 Kowa Prominar TSN-4    77    20X-60X  41.0    14.71      1       1     1-  1-      1     $1500
 Leupold 12X-40X        60    12X-40X  32.0    11.53      3       3     3   3       2-    $1026
 Nikon F'scope II-ED    60    15X-45X  39.1    11.41      2       1     2   2       2     $1090
 Optolyth TBG 80 HDF    80    20X-60X  46.0    15.01-     1-      1     2   2       1     $1600
 Swarovski ST-80        80    20X-60X  51.9    15.52      2+      2-    1-  1       2     $1340
                                        US$500 to US$999
 Bausch & Lomb Elite    77    20X-60X  37.9    14.02      2       2     2   2       1     $640
 Bausch & Lomb Elite    60    15X-45X  26.4    12.33      3       2     3   3       2-    $590*
 Celestron SS80+        80    22X      35.0    13.52+     2+      1-    NA  2+      2     $798*
 Celestron C90          90    33X      52.0     7.81-     1-      1     NA  1       3     $920*
 Kowa TSN-2             77    20X-60X  41.0    14.72      2       2     2   2       1     $795
 Leupold 20X50          50    20X      20.5     9.43      3       3     NA  2+      2-    $646*
 Nikon F'scope II       60    15X-45X  38.5    11.43+     3+      2     2   2       2     $740
                                        less than US$500
 Bushnell S'master
 ED                     60    22X WA   38.4    11.62-     2-      2-    NA  3       1     $480
 Bushnell S'master      60    22X WA   38.4    11.63+     3       3     NA  3       1     $248
 Celestron S-50         50    25X      21.0     9.03      3       3     NA  3       2     $218*
 Swift Panther          60    22X WA   32.0    12.43      3       3     NA  3       1     $280
 Swift Searcher         60    20X&40X  48.0    12.63      3       3     NA  3-      2-    $460

Notes:

   * numbers rounded to one decimal point
   * price is manufacturer's suggested retail price in US dollars
   * * means price includes the eyepiece
   * weight is in US ounces; length is in inches
   * WA is wide angle; NA is not applicable (no zoom, for example)

Return to Table of Contents

----------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sources for Optical Equipment

If you belong to a buying service, try that first. One example: B & L Elite
22 x 60 scope, list: US$750, best mailorder: US$400, buying service: US$200.
Several credit cards offer buying services. Another buying service that is
somewhat widespread throughout the US is United Consumers Club.

Also, check the New York City mail order sources that advertise in the back
of Popular/Modern Photography. Be aware, however, that these places often
carry what are known as foreign market or grey market goods. These are
products produced for sale in countries other than the US. Sometimes these
products are manufactured to different specifications; sometimes they are
identical. In any case, you will not have any US warranty on the goods and
may not get any frills either (carrying case, strap, etc.). The prices are
appealing, but caveat emptor.

Mail order purchases from New York discounters can be practical from outside
the US. Many Australasian netters have successfully ordered from B & H. You
typically pay about US$50 extra for insurance and express mail. Even with
the extra costs, your price may be considerably less than the best locally
available discount price. In Australasia, this is typically about 2/3 of the
best local price, assuming you pay import duty (in Australia) or GST (in New
Zealand). These taxes appear to be random; you may not be charged. If you
travel overseas and can purchase duty-free, then the price difference is
much smaller, and you may want to deal locally for the convenience of
service and repair. With your order comes an international guarantee, but
you must ship your purchase to your local distributor in the event that you
need to use it.

Before buying any mail order optics, you should read the Mail Order Survey
that Douglas Blondin (blondin@blanca.att.com) maintains. He posts this
survey, listing experience with most of national photographic and optics
stores, about once a month on rec.photo and rec.video.

The sci.astro newsgroup is a good place to ask about optics suppliers. On
this group, you will also find the Purchasing Amateur Telescopes FAQ that
Ronnie B. Kon (ronnie@cisco.com) maintains. This FAQ is now available in two
parts by FTP:

Part 1: ftp://ftp.cisco.com/faq/astro1.txt
Part 2: ftp://ftp.cisco.com/faq/astro2.txt

Birders often sell optical equipment as they upgrade to newer models.
Generally every issue of Winging It, the newsletter of the American Birding
Association, has offers of used equipment.

Suppliers

ABA Sales (Colorado Springs CO) 800-634-7736, 719-578-0607, 800-590-2473
(fax), 719-578-9705 (fax), abasales@abasales.com -- This is the sales
organization of the American Birding Association. They do a great job of
stocking items for birders. Their optics selection is good and their prices
are becoming more competitive. You cannot ask for better service. ABA
members get discounts. The catalog has many useful comparisons of optical
equipment. ABA Sales now stocks replacement parts for Bogen tripods and
heads.

Adorama Camera (New York NY) 800-223-2500 -- primarily a camera shop, they
have a good supply of birding optics. Extremely low prices, good advice over
the phone.

Binocular Warehouse (San Antonio TX) 210-525-9000, 210-525-8000 (fax),
Monday-Friday 9:00-18:00 Central Time, Saturday 10:00-17:00 -- I know
nothing about this company; found them while surfing the net.

B & H Photo (New York NY) Orders: 800-947-9902, +1-212-444-5002,
800-947-9003 (fax), +1-212-807-7479 (fax); Customer Service: 800-221-5743,
+1-212-807-7479, +1-212-366-3738 (fax); 70550.1616@compuserve.com; all major
credit cards; checks on US banks; COD in US; Direct Wire Transfers from
overseas; Monday-Tuesday 9:00-18:00 Eastern Time, Wednesday-Thursday
9:00-19:30, Friday 9:00-13:00 (to 14:00 during Daylight Savings Time),
Sunday 10:00-16:30, closed Saturday and all Jewish holidays -- This is one
of the only big NY photo shops with a sterling reputation. Although they
focus on cameras, they have just about everything a birder would want.

Readers say: "I have bought tons from B&H...highly approved of by the pros
who haunt rec.photo.... They're honest, don't bait and switch, don't add
garbage pieces, tell you how much everything including shipping will cost,
when you'll get it, etc.... Their prices run slightly higher than some other
NY mail-order houses but honesty and fairness make it worthwhile."

Christopher's Ltd (Norman OK) 800-356-6603 -- "primarily an
astronomy-oriented optical dealer, but good selection, decent prices, and
top-notch advice on many spotting scope options." Their prices are a bit
higher than some, but they offer a 30 day return policy (subject to a 15%
restocking fee). They have a catalog with much useful information about
birding optics, including recommendations about which spotting scopes work
best as telephoto lenses.

City Camera (Dearborn MI) 800-359-5085, 313-846-3922 -- They have a birder
on staff and offer a helpful flyer.

Company Seven, Astro-Optics Division (Montpelier MD) 301-953-2000,
301-604-2500 -- showroom with wide variety of equipment at 14300 Cherry Lane
Court, Laurel MD; Monday-Friday 11:00-18:00 Eastern Time, Saturday
11:00-17:00; closed Sunday and Federal holidays, company7@dgs.dgsys.com,
http://www.company7.com/.

Eagle Optics (Madison WI) 800-289-1132, 608-271-4751, 608-271-4406 (fax),
608-271-4751 (technical assistance) -- "really helpful," birding
specialists. They have a nice catalog that contains general optics
information, not unlike this FAQ.

Executive Photo (New York NY) 800-223-7323, 212-947-5290 -- avoid, based on
many negative comments.

Lizars (11 UK locations, see below) -- Lizars are a huge optics concern in
the UK. They distribute all the major brands, including Docter and Steiner,
and are one of the few Zeiss dealers in the UK. They will consult by
telephone and will send out pricing and product information upon request.
They have people on staff who understand twitchers and their needs. Mail
order is available through the Glasgow branch. Important branches are:

   * Head office: 101 Buchanan Street, Glasgow G2 3HF, 0141-221 8062,
     0141-248 2287 (fax)

   * 6 and 8 Shandwick Place, Edinburgh EH2 4RP, 0131-225 2195, 0131-220
     0549 (fax)

   * 37 Belmont Street, Aberdeen AB9 1GE, 01224 646143, 01224 635448 (fax)

   * 8 Wellington Place, Belfast BT1 6GT, 01232 326992, 01232 241766 (fax)

Los Angeles Audubon Society Bookstore (West Hollywood CA) 213-876-0202
213-876-7609 fax; telephone hours 09:00-16:00 Pacific Time,
Tuesday-Saturday; visiting hours 10:00-16:00, Tuesday-Saturday;
laas@ix.netcom.com -- while well known for their large supply of birding
literature, the LAAS bookstore does carry optics from the major
manufacturers. In the Los Angeles area, this appears to be an excellent
resource for comparing optics head-to-head. No prices published.

Mirakel Optical Co. (West Coxsackie NY) 518-731-2610 -- long established and
reputable optics dealer; several readers have had them do excellent repair
work. 331 Mansion St, West Coxsackie NY 12192

National Camera Exchange (Golden Valley MN) 800-624-8107, 612-546-6831 --
"helpful and straightforward; prices midway between Eagle or Christopher's
and the NY camera stores; 30-day satisfaction guarantee; Kevin, the optics
manager, was well-informed." Offers a free binocular buying guide.

Orion (Santa Cruz CA) 800-447-1001, sales@oriontel.com -- large selection of
interest to birders. Prices are fairly high, and service varies depending on
who you talk to.

Out of This World: Telescopes, Binocular, and Science Fun (Mendocino CA)
707-937-3335, 707-937-4046 (fax) -- reasonable prices and good service; mail
order.

S.A. Wentling Co. (Hershey PA) 717-533-2468 -- carries a large variety from
all major manufacturers. Fairly low prices. "Impeccable service" and "they
know what they are talking about."

Victor Emanuel Nature Tours (VENT) (Austin TX) 800-328-8368, 512-328-5221;
hours 08:30 - 17:30 CST -- carries a small inventory of top quality optics
(Zeiss, Leica, Swarovski, Optolyth, and Kowa) at competitive prices,
primarily as a service to those taking their tours.

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Optical Repair

In addition to being optical suppliers, the following have a good reputation
for repairing optics.

Captain's Nautical Supplies (Seattle WA) 206-283-7242 -- long time repair
shop, with prestigious set of references (Celestron, Tele Vue, and Zeiss),
2500 15th Ave West, Seattle WA 98119.

Lizars (Glasgow UK) 0141-221 8062, 0141-248 2287 (fax) -- Lizars offer a
repair service (with free estimates) through their head office at 101
Buchanan Street, Glasgow G2 3HF.

Mirakel Optical Co. (West Coxsackie NY) 518-731-2610 -- long established and
reputable optics dealer; several readers have had them do excellent repair
work. 331 Mansion St, West Coxsackie NY 12192

Redlich Binocular and Optical Repair (Falls Church VA) 703-241-4077 --
Solid, long time optics merchant in the Washington DC area with expertise in
repair. 711 W. Broad Street, Falls Church VA 22046-3221.

Return to Table of Contents

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Useful Reference Material

Publications

Note: this section contains references to information that has appeared
previously in this FAQ, but which may now be out of date for general
information, but which may still prove useful for you.

Better View Desired, Whole Life Systems, 120 Brown Street, Kennebunk, ME
04043, 207-985-3690, publisher Stephen Ingraham, singraham@cybertours.com.
Subscriptions are US$20 per year (6-8 issues); Inquire about international
subscription. Back issues are available.

Ingraham, "Bird Worthy Binoculars," Better View Desired, November 1994. Read
this essay before buying any new optics.

Culver and Gerhart, "Binocular Quest," Living Bird, Autumn 1992.

Gallagher and Gerhart, "A Birder's Guide to Spotting Scopes," Living Bird,
Spring 1994.

Birding (photo issue), February, 1989. See also the "Tools of the Trade"
column in most issues.

"High-Class Glass," Field and Stream, December 1994, p. 82.

Schreck, "Choosing a Spotting Scope," Birding, April 1995, p. 146. This
rather optimistically titled article discusses the Kowa TSN-4, the Swarovski
ST-80, the Optolyth TBG-80 HDF, and the Questar Birder.

Return to Table of Contents

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Contributors

Thanks to the following individuals who have helped with this FAQ:

Reid Allen, Bob Atkins, Don Baccus, Stephen Baker, Tor Ivar Bjonness, Bruce
Bowman, David Braddon-Mitchell, Tom Brichta, Bruce Brydon, Dana Bunner, Mike
Burger, Byron Butler, Dwight Chasar, Martin Cohen, Bill Cook, Scott
Crawford, Dalcio Dacol, Richard Ditch, Andy Donnelly, Derk Drukker, Joan
Dziezyc, Mark Eckenwiler, Al Eisner, Peter English, Dave Eshbaugh, Gary
Fellers, Larry Felton, Martin Finset, Annika Forsten, Jay Freeman, Tom
Frillman, Urs Geiser, L. Gorbet, David Graham, Diane Greer, Burt Guttman,
Bernie Guirey, Anne Haggar, Grant Hendrickson, Stephen Ingraham, Terry
Jackson, Sid Johnson, Frank Kolwicz, Tiff Kramer, Michael Kucher, Tony Lang,
Laurie Larson, Tom Lathrop, Harry Lehto, Julie Mangin, Kevin McGowan, Rob
McIlhargie, Andrew McLachlan, Joe Morlan, Peter Nurkse, Mike Parker, Roger
Pates, Carena Pooth, Henry Posner, Jeff Price, Tony Quezon, Paul Rakow, Jim
Reynolds, Jeanne Ricciardi, David Rintoul, Rocky Rothrock, Daan Sandee,
Sandy Santra, Rob Scott, Fred Shipley, Jean-Claude Simard, Marc James Small,
Steve Sosensky, Jack Stephens, Frank Suits, Herb Thompson, Brian Townes,
Elizabeth Volpicelli, Tim Walker, Adrian Wander, Joel Weintraub, Alan
Wilkinson, Steve Willner, David Winer, Doug Wipf, Rainer Woitok, David
Wright

[I apologize to anyone I have inadvertently left out -- let me know.]
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-- 
Ed Matthews, edm@aib.com, http://www.aib.com/~edm/
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